SoCoRX1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
well my sled was acting REALLY wierd. both of them actually. blue one has 1700 miles, red one has around 1400. Last season both ran flawlessly. at around 1400 miles on the blue one, i would go full throttle in DEEP SNOW, most of the time hillclimbing or sidehilling, and the sled would bog down and something that felt like the sled was being beat on with a jackhammer. it even shook so much my windshield is a little looser than it was when i got it. on the trails it didnt do it as much. saturday i changed the belt for the FIRST TIME in 1700 miles. everyone was commenting on how good the belt looked. i noticed that it NEVER did the jackhammer thing on the trails any more. it only occasionally did it climbing.
called the dealer, they told me the 05 has different clutch weights than the 04 and i needed to spend 150 on parts and 100 on labor to get a new clutch... Both sleds are having the problem. the red one isnt having the problem as much as the blue one. Both sleds go to 10,300 RPM without a problem, the blue one hit 95 on the dream meter yesterday Pulling VERYYYY hard and would go much faster. It NEVER happens on the trails on either one of them any more after belt changes. It ONLY happens trying to climb a hill in deep snow when the track is working
is my clutch slipping or is my dealer really right?
called the dealer, they told me the 05 has different clutch weights than the 04 and i needed to spend 150 on parts and 100 on labor to get a new clutch... Both sleds are having the problem. the red one isnt having the problem as much as the blue one. Both sleds go to 10,300 RPM without a problem, the blue one hit 95 on the dream meter yesterday Pulling VERYYYY hard and would go much faster. It NEVER happens on the trails on either one of them any more after belt changes. It ONLY happens trying to climb a hill in deep snow when the track is working
is my clutch slipping or is my dealer really right?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
I've never heard of anything from a clutch do that... You sure its not just ratcheting the track?
Your track is loose or the drive chain needs to be tightened. A clutching issue won,t do that.
SoCoRX1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Prairie Dog
Expert
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2004
- Messages
- 239
My track ratcheted bad when my sled was new. It's pretty much a must have on a RX1-151 to have extrovert drivers installed. When my track would ratchet, it vibrated the whole sled. It was pretty obvious. Now the track is run much looser, easier on the sliders, and no more ratchet.
SoCoRX1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
is there anything i can do to fix this by just pulling out a toolkit? i t boned someone in my truck friday so i have a 500 deductible to pay this week. cant afford much for the sleds this season
Both fixes are in the manual. Both fairly easy to do. It is easy to see if chain is loose. Remove the drive belt & move the secondary clutch back & forth. If it moves more then 2-3" either way your chain is lose. If not it is your track ratcheting...10 minute fix.
SoCoRX1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
alright thanks for the advice turk. ill have a look at it when i get the chance.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Just to describe the procedures...
Chaincase... there is a bolt with a (lock)nut sticking out the FRONT side (towards the front of the sled) of the chaincase about halfway down. Loosen the nut off (#14 metric), then loosen the bolt (#12 metric), then tighten to "hand tight", then hold the #12 in a wrench while cranking down the #14.
Make sure your chain lube is clean and at the correct level while you've got your hands down there. If the oil is low or ugly, replace it. There is a drain bolt IN THE TUNNEL.
Track tension:
Lift back of sled,
Big nuts sticking out the sides of the back wheels. Loosen them.
#14 nuts accessible directly from back through track window. Tighten each side a bit (by exactly the same amount). Keep doing this until it doesn't ratchet anymore (your guess is as good as mine).
ALSO: (very important)....
Check over the H-arm (front-main arm of the back suspension) for any cracks. If there are any cracks AT ALL (even hairline cracks), it would definitely explain a sudden excess of ratcheting. If there are any cracks, it is DANGEROUS to ride. Remove it and GET IT WELDED/REINFORCED.... That part is somewhat delicate, so its better to reinforce it than to just replace it.
Chaincase... there is a bolt with a (lock)nut sticking out the FRONT side (towards the front of the sled) of the chaincase about halfway down. Loosen the nut off (#14 metric), then loosen the bolt (#12 metric), then tighten to "hand tight", then hold the #12 in a wrench while cranking down the #14.
Make sure your chain lube is clean and at the correct level while you've got your hands down there. If the oil is low or ugly, replace it. There is a drain bolt IN THE TUNNEL.
Track tension:
Lift back of sled,
Big nuts sticking out the sides of the back wheels. Loosen them.
#14 nuts accessible directly from back through track window. Tighten each side a bit (by exactly the same amount). Keep doing this until it doesn't ratchet anymore (your guess is as good as mine).
ALSO: (very important)....
Check over the H-arm (front-main arm of the back suspension) for any cracks. If there are any cracks AT ALL (even hairline cracks), it would definitely explain a sudden excess of ratcheting. If there are any cracks, it is DANGEROUS to ride. Remove it and GET IT WELDED/REINFORCED.... That part is somewhat delicate, so its better to reinforce it than to just replace it.
SoCoRX1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
just to clarify, the H arm is where my limiter straps are at..right?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
yes.
SoCoRX1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
alright. whenever i get an hour or so ill lift up the back of the sled and work on some of this
A K MtnViper
Extreme
Hi SoCORx1, By now I'm sure you have adjusted your track, but I thought I would toss in a couple of suggestions. Do not tighten back wheel bolt so tight you cannot get it loose with tools you carry on sled to adjust on trail if nec. You may think you got it right under normal riding conditions only to find out when hill climbing and taking big bumps at the same time it will still ratchet. I know that you would never spend the whole day on a trail, but I do sometimes when taking one time riders with children on a trail ride. On those days if I'm sure I'll be on the trail all day I loosen my track 3 full turns to save on hyfax. Once you have tightened your track once the next time it is a 2 minute fix on trail.
SoCoRX1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
took it to the dealer today. he agreed it was ratcheting and tightened the track for me. ill take it out tomorrow and see how it does
