This has happened 10-12 times in 387 miles. It feels like track, chain, is stuck. Had to dealer when sled was under warr. Nothing found. If it does this in forward I have to go into reverse, if it happens in reverse I have to go into forward and than it is ok. I had drive belt off and can move secondary 2 1/2 inches. This seems wrong, but I did a search and somene stated this is normal. Just have a hard time thinking this is ok. The primary is scored from this issue and now the belt squeels. This sled leads a good life always stored inside heated celler. So I know it's not a frozen track. Could it be track sticking to hyfax? Chain, and track checked and adjusted a few times. Could this be the lack of rear idlers as 06 up have 10 idlers, 05 has 6? Thanks for any info.
I know my 07 has that much play in the chain case, good ole reverse causes that, not sure what is causing the issue, maybe check the drive bearings, is the chaincase hot when this happens ???
kyzer said:
I think only once it did it cold, coming off trailer.
jarmentrout
Veteran
06 RS Venture: 350 miles total:
Had my belt off today, had to change it because I burned it with too many people on it going too slow.
Before I put a new one on, I played with the secondary and it moved a great deal. I suspect that it's a combination of chain and gears. I have set my chain tension a couple of times just to be sure it's correct. When I set it a bit too tight, it's more difficult to get it into reverse.
if I set it by the book it's OK, though sometimes the throttle has to be burped to get the gears to line up. When the chain is WAY loose (like it was from the dealer) then it goes into reverse easy every time, but I could feel the lash when riding.
So, to summarize, I think the 2.5 inch movement in the secondary is probably normal.
Back to the burning belt: When I use reverse (06 RS Venture) it seems to "lock up" fast, spinning the track. Can't seem to get a smooth "slow" reverse. Wish they geared reverse lower. Who want's a minimum 10 MPH reverse?
Otherwise, no burning unless I'm trying to go too slow, or carrying too much weight. My wife (130), my son (80) and myself at 150, uphill on a hardly broken trail... Then I burned a belt...
Regarding sticking track/sliders, I know I started to melt them once with three of us riding on an icy road to get to the trail. Trick is not to stop completely if you think your track/sliders are melting until you can get some snow in there.
John
Had my belt off today, had to change it because I burned it with too many people on it going too slow.
Before I put a new one on, I played with the secondary and it moved a great deal. I suspect that it's a combination of chain and gears. I have set my chain tension a couple of times just to be sure it's correct. When I set it a bit too tight, it's more difficult to get it into reverse.
if I set it by the book it's OK, though sometimes the throttle has to be burped to get the gears to line up. When the chain is WAY loose (like it was from the dealer) then it goes into reverse easy every time, but I could feel the lash when riding.
So, to summarize, I think the 2.5 inch movement in the secondary is probably normal.
Back to the burning belt: When I use reverse (06 RS Venture) it seems to "lock up" fast, spinning the track. Can't seem to get a smooth "slow" reverse. Wish they geared reverse lower. Who want's a minimum 10 MPH reverse?
Otherwise, no burning unless I'm trying to go too slow, or carrying too much weight. My wife (130), my son (80) and myself at 150, uphill on a hardly broken trail... Then I burned a belt...
Regarding sticking track/sliders, I know I started to melt them once with three of us riding on an icy road to get to the trail. Trick is not to stop completely if you think your track/sliders are melting until you can get some snow in there.
John
Thanks for info. I am glad I posted before tearing the sled apart. I checked the slides to see if I cooked them, looked ok. If I keep this
sled I think I will open all track windows, install clips, and add wheels.
I priced out 06 up rails and wheels over $1,000. in parts. May try to
find a 06 up used skid off a wreak. As I think this might be why I burn
up belts easy. I think my issue is the rolling resistance from the lack
of and smaller idler wheels on the 05's. Thanks again.
sled I think I will open all track windows, install clips, and add wheels.
I priced out 06 up rails and wheels over $1,000. in parts. May try to
find a 06 up used skid off a wreak. As I think this might be why I burn
up belts easy. I think my issue is the rolling resistance from the lack
of and smaller idler wheels on the 05's. Thanks again.
maddogjeff
Expert
8,000 miles on my 05, never had this happen. Happened once on my Viper, the hyfax overheated and after stopping the clips welded to the hyfax, had to flip the sled over and pull the track away from the hyfax. But the fact you can free it by changing the direction of the track sounds like a transmission problem, something floating around in the chain case.
maddogjeff said:
Do you think it will be obvious if I pull the cover.
maddogjeff
Expert
Drain through a strainer to see if there are any chips. Then open it up, look for any chips and inspect the gears carefully.
canadianhunter
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Is there any chance it could be a bearing jaming up on the jack shaft or main drive axle ? Then again it probably would have come completely apart by now.
Shivesy
Expert
Here is what I would do:
Remove your belt and clean your primary and secondary clutch sheaves. Also clean your belt even if it is new and let it dry. Do a search on this process.
Jack up the rear of the sled and loosen your track untill there is 1/12" of free sag (no weight or pressure added) between your slide and track. Blurp the throttle and your track should rotate freely in forward and in reverse. If your track doesn't rotate freely then I would think your problem doesn't lie in the track. If your track does rotate freely I would check my belt deflection using a new belt if possible, if you don't have a new belt use your old one. Check this site on how to adjust your belt deflection. I would and I did add SLP pads to the track for less resistance between the slide and track. Maybe this might help. Also check your bearing behind the speedometer gear to make sure it is lubed properly. Also there is another bearing to check that is located on the other side of the driveshaft on the chaincase side. Also spin your idlers when your sled is lifted to check your idler bearings. Run your track tension set at 1 1/2" of free sag.
Did you buy this sled new or used? How many miles on the sled?
Remove your belt and clean your primary and secondary clutch sheaves. Also clean your belt even if it is new and let it dry. Do a search on this process.
Jack up the rear of the sled and loosen your track untill there is 1/12" of free sag (no weight or pressure added) between your slide and track. Blurp the throttle and your track should rotate freely in forward and in reverse. If your track doesn't rotate freely then I would think your problem doesn't lie in the track. If your track does rotate freely I would check my belt deflection using a new belt if possible, if you don't have a new belt use your old one. Check this site on how to adjust your belt deflection. I would and I did add SLP pads to the track for less resistance between the slide and track. Maybe this might help. Also check your bearing behind the speedometer gear to make sure it is lubed properly. Also there is another bearing to check that is located on the other side of the driveshaft on the chaincase side. Also spin your idlers when your sled is lifted to check your idler bearings. Run your track tension set at 1 1/2" of free sag.
Did you buy this sled new or used? How many miles on the sled?
Shivesy said:
Yes I bought it brand new. Has 387 miles. I have read on this site to run
track loose. I will check out the SLP track pads. I feel like it's the rolling resistance thing as I did check out how the track spins on stand. Which
it does stop quick when letting off throttle but I think that is the nature
of this beast. My reason for being stuck on the rolling resistance thing is
the 06 up's got 10 idlers and 05's have 6.
Thanks for everyones input on this. Great site!
jarmentrout
Veteran
Note too that without a belt and the rear on a stand, the track should rotate by hand. Of course the gear box is still connected, so maybe this will help track down if the issue is in the gear box, or friction between track and sliders...
jarmentrout
Veteran
the brake is on the jackshaft, so track won't turn with with the brake on even with belt off.
maddogjeff
Expert
Re: 05 RS Venture belt smokes from stop in forward or revers
Did you discover what the problem is yet?
4ws f 7 said:
Did you discover what the problem is yet?
