sleddermb
Extreme
First ride out on new-to-me sled, seems ok, but looking for recommendations on installing either heavier rear torsion springs or upgrade to a valveavble rear shock. Went through quite a bit of rough trail riding yesterday and was continually bottoming, unless i was right up front at the gas tank. FYI - I'm 300 lbs plus. I assume there would be lots of aftermarket options that would be cheaper than getting something from Yamaha. Second, I have a 23 tooth gear on order to get it geared like a stock non mountain Apex. Yesterday, I'm sure I could of got this thing revving to 12000 rpm if I held it, on the hard pack. Question is - should I start screwing with the primary weights, before I change the gear. At 60 - 70 mph on the trails, I was constantly running 10 - 10500 rpm. Do all apex's rev like this, or is this just the mountain set up (clutching/gearing). Also, it pulls great out of the hole, but if you're cruising at 50 + mph and punch it, it didn't seem that great for pick up. It max's out the rev's no problem, so I'm hoping it's a dirty secondary or maybe just a crappy belt (haven't put a new belt on yet). One more thing, if I loosen off the spring on the secondary 1 notch, will that reduce the backshifting (braking), when you let off the throttle.
Thanks for any input,
Greg (Apex Virgin)
Thanks for any input,
Greg (Apex Virgin)
shawnmcgr
Pro
There was a guy on Snow and mud last year that installed a nextech fox float conversion in his rear skid and kept the coil spring in for just the reason you have provided.
The sled is supposed to pull 10,500rpm.
Me, I wouldn't mess with the clutch until you've install the gearing, unbless your willing to do it again.
Acceleration at 50+, what track are you running. If it's a mtn track then it will just spin on the trail, especially a maverick.
The sled is supposed to pull 10,500rpm.
Me, I wouldn't mess with the clutch until you've install the gearing, unbless your willing to do it again.
Acceleration at 50+, what track are you running. If it's a mtn track then it will just spin on the trail, especially a maverick.
sleddermb
Extreme
It is the stock maverick, but I don't think it's spinning, because it hook's up well out the hole. I was hoping to find a relatively inexpensive shock for this year. I don't imagine a float setup would come cheap.
GotJuice
Expert
some info for you
The torsion springs on our skids and the coil spring on shocks are suppose to be for rebound and ride height not compression! Yamaha's answer to their chitty rear suspension is to give you stiffer torsion springs which makes it rebound like a pogo stick.....WRONG direction to go!
You need/want a properly valved gas shock for the skid, either buy one already done or buy a Venture or newer Apex Mtx shock and have it revalved for 60.00 at Pioneer or Carver. They will give you "progressive" valving and you will not be bottoming and the ride will increase dramatically! This alone will make the biggest difference....don't waste money on heavier torsion springs.
For the proper clutching you want it to hit the rev limiter on hard packed this way when your in the deeper firm snow it will be running 10,800 .....go to a lower gear 22 or23 tooth will give you 100MPH and a huge improvement on mid range....it should pull like a freight train! Also you might look into a SHOCKWAVE helix, they are adjustable by the turn of a dial....really really simple and you can gain or decrease your rpms 600-700 by turning the dial, depending on the elevation and snow conditions. I wouldn't change the spring pressure on the helix unless you want it to back shift slower. (this is the reaction you feel when you punch the throttle...does it drop RPMS and pick up speed quick...if not then it might need to be wound tighter but do the gear first then start the other adjustments). Cheers!
The torsion springs on our skids and the coil spring on shocks are suppose to be for rebound and ride height not compression! Yamaha's answer to their chitty rear suspension is to give you stiffer torsion springs which makes it rebound like a pogo stick.....WRONG direction to go!
You need/want a properly valved gas shock for the skid, either buy one already done or buy a Venture or newer Apex Mtx shock and have it revalved for 60.00 at Pioneer or Carver. They will give you "progressive" valving and you will not be bottoming and the ride will increase dramatically! This alone will make the biggest difference....don't waste money on heavier torsion springs.
For the proper clutching you want it to hit the rev limiter on hard packed this way when your in the deeper firm snow it will be running 10,800 .....go to a lower gear 22 or23 tooth will give you 100MPH and a huge improvement on mid range....it should pull like a freight train! Also you might look into a SHOCKWAVE helix, they are adjustable by the turn of a dial....really really simple and you can gain or decrease your rpms 600-700 by turning the dial, depending on the elevation and snow conditions. I wouldn't change the spring pressure on the helix unless you want it to back shift slower. (this is the reaction you feel when you punch the throttle...does it drop RPMS and pick up speed quick...if not then it might need to be wound tighter but do the gear first then start the other adjustments). Cheers!
sleddermb
Extreme
Great, thanks for the input guys. Is the stock rear shock on the newer sleds a decent shock? Any idea how much they sell for? I've got a 23 tooth on order so I was hoping that was the right sprocket.
Thanks for the help,
Greg
Thanks for the help,
Greg
akstormin
Newbie
If you are looking for acceleration on the trail or any sort of performance on set-up or hard packed snow I would recommend a track change. I went from the maverick to a challenger take-off from a cat and it was a world of difference in set-up snow. There is a reason that you can pick up a nearly new maverick for 100-200 dollars... Just my 2c.
