06 or 07 inner boggie wheels need shims

[snowbeast]

Ok if you have your skid out on floor,take some measurements with calipers and there is between .030 and .050 thou. differance between the two wheels on the inside posts vrs the single rear idler 7" wheel so just that much differance could impact the way those two inners wear,as the rear 7" idler looks to be in the right placement,but both rear inners and both front outers you will need to shim to make everything align perfectly,as if you look at the front two locators that hold on the wheel,it bumps up against the rail on the outside right,now go back to the wheel just behind it,it bumps up to the rail too,but look closely the rail has added piece of materail to add strength,and that added piece is the same thickness as one of your outside washers that you run the bolt thru to hold on the wheel,now you may have to get some washers and cut a little notch into them so it attaches to the rail behind the bracket post that the wheel hangs off,to make up the proper thicknesses to match evenly.

 

[Shivesy]

"Ok if you have your skid out on floor,take some measurements with calipers and there is between .030 and .050 thou. differance between the two wheels on the inside posts vrs the single rear idler 7" wheel so just that much differance could impact the way those two inners wear,as the rear 7" idler looks to be in the right placement,"

I don't think the thickness matters on the inners as long as they are running in the center of the track lugs, especially if the inners are a bit thinner in diameter v/s the 7" axle wheels.

"look closely the rail has added piece of materail to add strength,and that added piece is the same thickness as one of your outside washers that you run the bolt thru to hold on the wheel,now you may have to get some washers and cut a little notch into them so it attaches to the rail behind the bracket post that the wheel hangs off,to make up the proper thicknesses to match evenly"

I really don't think it makes a difference on the outer wheels as long as they are missing the guide lugs when the track turns.

 

[apexsledhed]

i think that the rails are flexing and the inner wheels that run between the rubber nubs of the track are tilting causing them to hit the outer nubs which is causing the wheels to get chewed up. the reason why it is only the inner ones the outer ones are tipping out on the bottom and there are no nu bs for the wheels to hit!

 

[craze1cars]

I dunno...don't see any issue like this on my Attak. I have no caliper measurements but I don't see the point...doesn't really matter how the wheels are positioned/measured when the skid is out, all that matters is exactly where the wheels are riding between the drive lugs of the track when the skid is installed. And as I always do, I took a very careful look at each individual wheel when I did my track replacement and set tension/alignment. I can clearly see that the center wheels are running exactly and perfectly centered between the drive lugs. And the outers have equal clearance on both sides. So any shims added to any wheels would definitely put them out of position and wouldn't correct anything. My sled was brand new when I did this...which leads me to wonder, are you sure your rails are straight and not slightly tweaked? Or maybe Apex is different from Attak.

Apexsledhed has a good theory IMO, but difficult to prove as such a flexing would only happen under speed/pressure/load and nobody could ever really see it happening.

 

[snowbeast]

I dunno...don't see any issue like this on my Attak. I have no caliper measurements but I don't see the point...doesn't really matter how the wheels are positioned/measured when the skid is out, all that matters is exactly where the wheels are riding between the drive lugs of the track when the skid is installed. And as I always do, I took a very careful look at each individual wheel when I did my track replacement and set tension/alignment. I can clearly see that the center wheels are running exactly and perfectly centered between the drive lugs. And the outers have equal clearance on both sides. So any shims added to any wheels would definitely put them out of position and wouldn't correct anything. My sled was brand new when I did this...which leads me to wonder, are you sure your rails are straight and not slightly tweaked? Or maybe Apex is different from Attak.

Apexsledhed has a good theory IMO, but difficult to prove as such a flexing would only happen under speed/pressure/load and nobody could ever really see it happening.

I should of mentioned that my track and skid are both on my floor,completely out of the tunnel,and yes if you install skid into track and even the complete package up you can see where the wheels do not line up,this is a simple way to blue print your driveline,if a set of wheels that lay ahead of a set in the back dont line up to each other,no matter which set is off location,when you reinstall everything they will still be out of alignment and drag against each other,causing unwanted drag,and maybe premature wear on the rubber side of the wheel,and its funny all three apex sleds we have have this alignment problem,so i dont think it is just our three sets of rails.

 

[craze1cars]

All true. Just not seeing this misalignment anywhere on my Attak. I don't have an Apex.

 

[Mr WFO]

30 KM scratch 2 inner wheels I checked them after the first 5 Km and found only the rubber on the inners to warm! The other wheels were cold . I checked again after 20 KM and both were delaminated. I replaced them tonight with 05 yamaha after market wheels 6205 bearings and had to put spacers behind the large washer.but noticed the wheels are not dead centre of the track lugs to centre them I will have to machine the wheel bearing spindal is it worth it?

 

[leaddog]

2100 miles on my GT. Original wheels......... O.K..... I'll take my skid out again to check it. ...........(no snow anyway)