dutch
Newbie
Just wondering if some of you could enlighten me on this pro action rear skid. I had the shocks re-valved when I bought it last year but never got a chance to ride until now due to some health issues last year and I still find it a bit stiff with very little weight transfer. I'm wondering what adjustments are available on this skid. I know there's the cam for the torsion springs and the thread adjuster for the front shock but what's this "clicker" thing I'm hearing about and is there a way to adjust weight transfer?
Apparently the guy who owned the sled before me was quite heavy so how do I tell if I have the stock torsion springs or if I have anti-bottomers?
One more thing. I find the sled doesn't turn real great so I'm going to pull all the studs out of the outside section of the track (it has 192) to help it pivot better but is this the problem or should I be playing with the limiter straps? Thanks.
Apparently the guy who owned the sled before me was quite heavy so how do I tell if I have the stock torsion springs or if I have anti-bottomers?
One more thing. I find the sled doesn't turn real great so I'm going to pull all the studs out of the outside section of the track (it has 192) to help it pivot better but is this the problem or should I be playing with the limiter straps? Thanks.
Not really answering your question but.... you may be better off with the mono rear skid.
Tod
Tod
Terminator
Expert
dutch said:Just wondering if some of you could enlighten me on this pro action rear skid. I had the shocks re-valved when I bought it last year but never got a chance to ride until now due to some health issues last year and I still find it a bit stiff with very little weight transfer. I'm wondering what adjustments are available on this skid. I know there's the cam for the torsion springs and the thread adjuster for the front shock but what's this "clicker" thing I'm hearing about and is there a way to adjust weight transfer?
Apparently the guy who owned the sled before me was quite heavy so how do I tell if I have the stock torsion springs or if I have anti-bottomers?
One more thing. I find the sled doesn't turn real great so I'm going to pull all the studs out of the outside section of the track (it has 192) to help it pivot better but is this the problem or should I be playing with the limiter straps? Thanks.
i own two, me and my son had the shocks revalved as well but we are heavyweights. you'll need to suck the limiter strap down at least one and reduce transfer if you want to corner better (my son likes more transfer for hole shots racing on the lake) simmons skis w/ 6" carbides are a must. also lower psi in the front floats to around 50 for flatter cornering. torsion springs to min. there is a screw in the main rear shock, two clicks from all the way in is the stiffest, 20 is softest, i'd try it at 10 and then adjust to you're feedback.
one thing i have accepted is that is is not going to ride like a mono but that's the price i pay to know i will not bottom out.
good luck.

dutch
Newbie
Anyone else like to chime in?
Keep your studs, get more air in the front shocks. As for the rear, if you pull up the front limiter you will force more pressure up front. With more air you better be a weight lifter to turn the steering.
My settings....limiter stock location, coil spring block - lightest location.
Rear shocks have never been revalved, suspension is a 136" and very impressed with the transfer and ride. I also run 50-65lbs on front shocks.
My recommendations would AIR AIR AIR first...I can always tell when I need more air....then lightest location on block, stock limiter location, lighten up the rear spring, and did I mention get more air in the front. Works for me.
My settings....limiter stock location, coil spring block - lightest location.
Rear shocks have never been revalved, suspension is a 136" and very impressed with the transfer and ride. I also run 50-65lbs on front shocks.
My recommendations would AIR AIR AIR first...I can always tell when I need more air....then lightest location on block, stock limiter location, lighten up the rear spring, and did I mention get more air in the front. Works for me.
Frozenstiff
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Hey Dutch, I ,ve got the same sled, same skid and I got it to transfer great. I weigh about 185 with all my gear on, so get your flat screwdriver out and turn the screw on the shocks to about 6 clicks. And adjust the back shock softer as well per your owners manual. Gently turn the screws all the way in, and then back it off about 12-14 clicks and go from there. Mine will lift the skis at 50 mph.How tight is your front strap ? Let us know how that works for you.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
dutch said:Just wondering if some of you could enlighten me on this pro action rear skid. I had the shocks re-valved when I bought it last year but never got a chance to ride until now due to some health issues last year and I still find it a bit stiff with very little weight transfer. I'm wondering what adjustments are available on this skid. I know there's the cam for the torsion springs and the thread adjuster for the front shock but what's this "clicker" thing I'm hearing about and is there a way to adjust weight transfer?
Apparently the guy who owned the sled before me was quite heavy so how do I tell if I have the stock torsion springs or if I have anti-bottomers?One more thing. I find the sled doesn't turn real great so I'm going to pull all the studs out of the outside section of the track (it has 192) to help it pivot better but is this the problem or should I be playing with the limiter straps? Thanks.
They're a round hard plastic part that bolts to the rail under the long arm of the torsion springs. Bad news on a performance sled. They do add capacity as advertised. The problem is they TOTALLY overwhelm the rear shock's capacity regarding rebound. They'll try to toss your butt right over the windshield under the right conditions.
I found good transfer on this skid hard to attain. When you get it, you run into ratcheting trouble. Maybe that was just me though...
I have great transfer, stand it on end whenever I try. Boondocks like a king.
Also running extroverts.
Also running extroverts.
wileya
Pro
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FAMILYMAN said:Keep your studs, get more air in the front shocks. As for the rear, if you pull up the front limiter you will force more pressure up front. With more air you better be a weight lifter to turn the steering.
My settings....limiter stock location, coil spring block - lightest location.
Rear shocks have never been revalved, suspension is a 136" and very impressed with the transfer and ride. I also run 50-65lbs on front shocks.
My recommendations would AIR AIR AIR first...I can always tell when I need more air....then lightest location on block, stock limiter location, lighten up the rear spring, and did I mention get more air in the front. Works for me.
what do you run your rear front shock at???
dutch
Newbie
Thanks guys,
I finally found the "clicker" screw and backed it off quite a bit. I think the guy that wrote the big article on this skid backed his right off after the re-valve but we'll see. My front rear shock spring is also backed right off and then tightened a few turns as per recommendations from others. I'll check the air in the front shocks when I get it back from the guy that's servicing it right now. Does anyone know how to tell what the torsion spring size is and what the stock ones are?
I finally found the "clicker" screw and backed it off quite a bit. I think the guy that wrote the big article on this skid backed his right off after the re-valve but we'll see. My front rear shock spring is also backed right off and then tightened a few turns as per recommendations from others. I'll check the air in the front shocks when I get it back from the guy that's servicing it right now. Does anyone know how to tell what the torsion spring size is and what the stock ones are?
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
VERY few were changed from stock. The heavier springs were stupid expensive and actually rode lower than the stock springs. The stockers are heavy to start with. I'm thinking they're like .420, but that's going from memory when I was first setting mine up.
Raypex
Pro
Dutch, A little input for you,
My favorite set up is MED spring tension, I've never touched front limiters, I keep my transfer setting minimal ('cause i want to turn while accelerating) and the shock damping, you'll have to play with. my guess is right in the middle. I weigh about 220lbs and clicked mine up a few for agressive bump riding. As far as the front end, I changed to a 13mm bar (easy and inexpensive) and set my floats so the A-arms are almost flat. Hope this helps!
My favorite set up is MED spring tension, I've never touched front limiters, I keep my transfer setting minimal ('cause i want to turn while accelerating) and the shock damping, you'll have to play with. my guess is right in the middle. I weigh about 220lbs and clicked mine up a few for agressive bump riding. As far as the front end, I changed to a 13mm bar (easy and inexpensive) and set my floats so the A-arms are almost flat. Hope this helps!
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