kenbar
Extreme
I am about to order the accessory spoked wheels.
On the Canadian site, the bogey wheel number is SMA-8FU38-01 and the rear wheel number is SMA-8FU38-02. On the US site, the bogey is SMA-8FP38-01 and rear is SMA-8FP38-02.
Slightly different numbers however they look exact. I am assuming the different number is the different country. Can anyone confirm that the Canadian wheels also have replaceable bearings?
On the Canadian site, the bogey wheel number is SMA-8FU38-01 and the rear wheel number is SMA-8FU38-02. On the US site, the bogey is SMA-8FP38-01 and rear is SMA-8FP38-02.
Slightly different numbers however they look exact. I am assuming the different number is the different country. Can anyone confirm that the Canadian wheels also have replaceable bearings?
Shootinstick
Expert
Those of you who have machined your wheel mounts, can you tell me which end of the mount you have machined? Did you take metal off the end that mounts up to the frame rail, or did you machine the turned down step that the bearing slides on further back?
apltx08
TY 4 Stroke God
Shootinstick said:
I machined the part that sits on the rails...
Attacker
Extreme
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 viper ltx
I replaced my o6 wheels with the spoked acc wheels. We put about 5ooo mil per year and 4 out of 6 bearings were bad. I replace the bearings every year. This year when I got the new bearings I checked the grease in them. What I found was very little blue colored grease in them. I packed the new bearings, both sides so we will see if this makes them last longer. It seems the factory put just enough grease in them to last 1 season.
The Snow D.O.
Lifetime Member
I just had equal amounts machined off both sides of the wheel mounts and this looks like it's gonna work great.
DeanO
Veteran
Hey Guys, just alittle tip that I have been having success with for a few years now. I repack my idler bearins in mine and my wifes sled. and I do it from bran new. the stock greese in those bearings dont last long. Im not an amsoil dealer or anything like that but amsoil makes a water resistant greese that also helps to resist corrosion. I use it faithfully. Learned the trick after working on crop dusters and Float planes with amphibious floats. the chemicals and water from the spray booms on the crop dusters just kill the bearings and swivel mounts on the tail wheel. so we repack those bearings about every 100 hours of flight and they seem to last. with regular greese with in 40 hours of flight they are just shot.
on the amphib float aircraft, the ocean water just kills those wheel bearings, regular greese just gets washed away plus causes major corrosion on the wheel bearings. so we pack those wheels faithfully with amsoil water resistant grease and it holds up for about 100 hours of float thrashing.
Its easy to pop the bearing seals off with a good Oring Pick. then clean out the stock greese, then pack the new greese in, pop the seal on and your good to go.
hope this helps you guys.
on the amphib float aircraft, the ocean water just kills those wheel bearings, regular greese just gets washed away plus causes major corrosion on the wheel bearings. so we pack those wheels faithfully with amsoil water resistant grease and it holds up for about 100 hours of float thrashing.
Its easy to pop the bearing seals off with a good Oring Pick. then clean out the stock greese, then pack the new greese in, pop the seal on and your good to go.
hope this helps you guys.
dave_dj1
Pro
i popped my bearing covers on the idler wheels the other day and the grease was more like dirt! all my wheels were replaced last winter under warrenty. It amazes me that a 10K sled came through with $2.00 wheels and bearings. i cleaned out all the old grease and repacked with high pressure red, not sure if my bearings were already toast but they don't realy free spin but i figure it may prolong the wheels a little while longer.
