08-09 MTX tunnels/skids

[mateo]

Hi Guys, Just bought Nytro this spring & looking forward to riding it next winter!

After days of reading up on all the mods people are doing, I'm still not entirely sure of one thing:
Specifically what are the contributing factors to the 08/09 MTX's burning track speed and being such an inferior machine compared to the 2010+ builds.
Something about track angle I read, but not quite sure what that means.

I'm waiting for my 'new' 09 Nytro to make it's way down from AK and am planning some mods myself.
to fix:
- Snow build up on running boards.
- Running boards hanging up.
- robbed track speed & power caused by tunnel.


I heard someone make a mention on Ttabs nytro mod thread about a 2" lift.
Is this a poor mans fix for the tunnel/track issues? (instead of the Mt Tamer skid)
or is that something else?
Are there any other options than to drop 2+K on a new suspension?

Thanks Y'all.
BTW, 07 summit X for sale.

 

[bholmlate]

Hey Mateo
Make sure you fill in your location. it is a site requirment i believe. There are several things that have changed on the newer nytro's that make them better overall sleds. They changed the front suspension geometry and reinforced the front sub-frame which made the newer sleds handle a little better and made them a little stronger. The 08 Nytro's were really nervous and twitchy and if you hit something with one of the skies a certain way the front sub-frame will bend like butter. There are several aftermarket companies that have helped in this area OFT,shinz, and timbersled to name a few. I am sure you have come across the Skinz thread about their new front a-arm kit.

The newer sleds, as you mentioned, also have a lower approach angle on the skid allowing the sleds to better climb up on top of the snow when you start out. The approach angle is refering to the angle between the front of the track as it comes around the drivers and the nose of the rails in relationship to the surface of the snow. The 08's is around +/-22 degrees where i think the 10's is at +/- 17 degrees. The more shallow angle will allow the track to climb on top of the snow quicker and lessons the possibility of trenching. The high approach angle also leads to extensive hyfax wear on the front of the rails that people have complained about.

The overall weight of the rear skid is the biggest issue most people have and you add the poor quality of the OEM track and it just doesnt work all that well in deep snow. For bigger guys the suspension was a little too soft and would bottom out on the stiffest setting. Most people would agree that swapping out the track would make the biggest difference in performace. The power claw or camoplast challenger extreme are the most popular tracks on the nytro

I have only heard about issues with the tunnels from people who run under tunnel exhaust systems and run taller aftermarket tracks. these can cause clearance issues. When you run a taller track you reduce the clearance between the track and the front cooler. Some have claimed that in doing so there is not enough room to evacuate the snow as the track spins and thus causing drag on the track and robbing track speed and power. The 08 running boards can also hang up when you are making deep powder turns causing the track to loose pressure on the snow. there are a couple of update kits out there to help fix this issue but a lot of people have just trimed their running boards and added a brace like on the polaris and arctic cats

You can find a lot of information on TTabs thread as wll as other builds in this forum. Personally i would ride the sled a couple times before making too many changes. A lot of things people post on here work for them but might not work for you and your riding style. Like with everything else, You ask 6 people and you get 6 different opinions on what works and what doesnt

I think the Nytro is a good sled overall. there is just a lot of areas that you can make changes to that will improve the performace of the sled a great deal Good luck with your new sled. It will take some time dialling it in but once you do it is a fun sled to ride.

 

[mateo]

Thanks, bholmlate for the detailed writeup. Much appreciated!

I was thinking to do the trim/brace proceedure on the runningboards and tunnel end to start.
Will have to look into reinforcing the subframe too.
A-arm Kits seem like a great addition from the reviews! But as you say, it takes 6 a-holes to make an opinion, no that's not it but something like that

If these sled motors last as long as they're hyped up to do, then there will be plenty of time to save up for all these mods as I take the time to figure this thing out.


M

 

[scmurs]

Mateo,

How would you describe your riding style?

Boondocking, climbing, etc?

There will be different opinions based on this. At least 6 of them, I'm guessing.

As for now, track for sure and rear skid. Different options on the latter based on riding style.

Scott

 

[mateo]

Scott,

full mixed bag.
Boondocking, check.
Climbing Less,

But when you need to get places - need to climb!
I'm doing a fair bit of sled skiing, and looking for new zones, exploring etc... So climbing out of a hole, or a dead end is ultimately inevitable.
Also, sidehilling - possibly in scary spots (to go to the next zone etc..) so the front suspension looks nice for that piece of mind!

Most guys here run 800 2's, so they're always eager to lend a hand laying a track in something steep. But without a turbo, I hope I can make all the climbs when tandem'ing&skiing.


Also, expeditions, meaning loading 2 ppl, and 2x50lbs on the back.
I've been wondering of the tunnel chopping that I've seen on some posts will not compromise the strength that I may need. I'll have to see how bad the snow build up is for me before I take the axe out.

 

[scmurs]

Based on what you said, I'd start with a Mountain Tamer ( great all around rear skid and a drastic improvement over stock ) and a Powerclaw or CE Extreme track. You may be able to get away with 153" but I'm guessing that a 162" may suit you better.

How many trips can you log before you figure out exactly what you want?

Is boost a must based on what you want to do?

Other handling improvements are Gen III skis, our rider forward steering post relocator ( I am biased on that one ). You've seen the feedback on the aftermarket front ends. More will come next winter with the wide spread release.

Snow build up on the running can be addressed a few different ways, but you will be best off taking some action now. The 09 boards will drive you nutz.

 

[hugger70mtnmax]

I would not ride mine without the steering relocator and the rollover valve from OFT. The steering relocator just makes riding easier and more comfortable and the steering gets way tighter. The rollover valve makes you not have to worry all the time about rolling the sled over and losing the oil out of the tank.

Scmurs is right I think after that. The stock track is alright in set up snow but as soon as you get into any kind of powder it is ridiculous. There is no other word to better describe it. If you are riding double with the stock skid it will bottom out a lot. I have hauled double and it bottoms a lot.

If you are worried about the running board strength then have Scmurs hook you up with some air frame boards. You will never worry about snow build up and strength will be greatly enhanced.

Welcome to a great sled.

 

[bholmlate]

X2 on the steering relocator and roll over valve. There are several relocaters out there and they all do about the same thing. they vary in price as well. For me the fit and finish, not to mention the service and support before and after the sale, I was glad i went with the OFT boys. . I am a tall rider and the relocater imporved the riding postion for me on the sled.

The roll over valve is a must as well. When you roll this sled over "and you will" you will be glad that you have one. If you dont, you will be cleaning out your air box and the whole front of the motor for days every time. Plus if you dont get the sled back over quickly you might even have to hike out and pack in extra oil to get the sled back to the trailer. 0-30w oil drains pretty quicly out of a 5/8" ID breather line when its turned updaide down. For the easy if hooking up the roll over valve i also went with the OFT kit

 

[Off Trail Mike]

mateo

6 different people will have 6 different opinions, but there is some solid agreement on this post so far.

Here's my MTX list:
1. Roll over and relocator $320
2. Aftermarket exhaust ($200-500 to shed 10+ lbs)
3. Better running boards (airframes best then WRP or Better Boards...depends on your budget) $100-500
4. Track $900
5. Suspension $1500

Am I over $3000 yet?

Reasons are common among the posts but here's my 2 cents worth;

Steering relocator and roll over valve. I think the first day I owned my Mtx, 2 drivers and two side rolls, and the right roll leaked oil awful fast. The relocator just works.

The exhaust is only to sheds weight, and it can be a fair bit. My yoshi dropped almost 13 lbs. I would also say tread carefully with undertunnel exhausts. They all have clearance issues and can add a ton of heat (thus ice and water) into your tunnel depending on snow conditions.

The running boards on the 08/09 are annoying at two levels: The holes are too small and plug with snow, and the boards are too wide and flat, so they act like a fixed rudder making it VERY squirrly when slaloming thru the pow. This is especially true when you cross someone else's track on a carve.

Track: We all agree either Powerclaw or Challenger Extreme....personal choice. Lots of recommendations on TY, but both are vastly better than the stocker, which bends over sitting on your garage floor, forget on the snow.

Suspension: The 08/09 suspension is bulletproof, but very very heavy. Scmurs has it covered with the Timbersled.

I almost forgot and boys correct me if I am wrong. I think the subframe in the 09 was reinforced, and there were changes to the front suspension geometry, so your sled will be much better than the 08's

OTM

 

[mateo]

"I think the subframe in the 09 was reinforced, and there were changes to the front suspension geometry, so your sled will be much better than the 08's "

Nice to hear that I Might not need to play with subframe, and possibly front suspension geometry.

at 1500 for the Rear Suspension, that seems to be excluding price of shock. Does the stock shock work with the aftermarket suspension?

 

[swelly]

Here is my 2 Cents

OFT Relator, Money well spent, and easy to do.
Roll Over Valve Kit.
Mountain Tamer Rear Skid, Well worth it, and the improvement is Phenom.
CE Track.

Airboards, or Better Boards.

Then the addiction will start.