nate007
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2006
- Messages
- 2,770
- Location
- Iowa City, Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 1. '06 Apex -twin screw
2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
There are lots of resources here to help you with your suspension issues, yamy07. Every year each manufacturers machines get more and more complex, which can make things a bit intimidating for many riders.
Try starting a post explaining your sled, (model, equip, riding style and your weight) and ask for other riders' advise on adjustments,and see what you get there. Without knowing what all is happening while you ride, it's hard to know what to tell you to do, and you don't want to hijack this thread to do it. You might be surprised, you may end up making a completely unlikely adjustment that may change your opinion about your sled completely!
Try starting a post explaining your sled, (model, equip, riding style and your weight) and ask for other riders' advise on adjustments,and see what you get there. Without knowing what all is happening while you ride, it's hard to know what to tell you to do, and you don't want to hijack this thread to do it. You might be surprised, you may end up making a completely unlikely adjustment that may change your opinion about your sled completely!
BooBoo
Pro
I was also at the midland Mi. show and I was told also that yamaha would have a front end kit out sometime this year for the 08's.
nate007
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2006
- Messages
- 2,770
- Location
- Iowa City, Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 1. '06 Apex -twin screw
2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
Patience, Grasshoppers.........
Nate007- I'm willing to try any suggestions, but I think my options are limited.
I've got the Standard Nytro- non RTX version. I'm 6' 200lbs. I'm running Pilot 6.9 skis, my front limit strap is pulled in 1 notch from factory - no complaints on the front suspension other than does not rail as well as my 2000 SXr. As I stated before, the rear end in harsh on the stutters & bottoms bad on medium size G-out bumps. I tried increasing the rear torsion spring to H & also have tried my compression setting at max. Both these changes made the ride on stutters MUCH worse & made slight improvement to bottoming.
I'll quote from http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0
"One thing I did not touch on is "clickers". On the 07/08 Apex RTX, these work by adding a spring, a ball bearing and a "clicker screw" to tighten up the spring. This all sits on the remote reservoir, restricting the oil flow into the reservoir. The reason oil flows to/from the reservoir is due to the shock's shaft displacing the oil in the main shock body as the shock strokes. By further restricting the oil flow to the reservoir, the damping can be increased by tightening the "clicker".
Unfortunately, again this is a simple and primitive "clicker". As you tighten up the clicker it increases the low/mid to mid/high speed damping, further increasing the ride harshness. Unfortunately, once a big bump is hit, the ball bearing pushes hard enough to move back against the spring again opening up the oil restriction. Once again, although this helps to reduce bottoming, it doesn't do a very good job of it and it greatly increases the ride harshness at the same time. "
I currently have my compression back to 2 clicks harder than stock & rear torsion on M & have installed the anti-bottoming kit to control bottoming. This is far from an Ideal setup, but is an acceptable compromise. Maybe you can do better on an RTX, but even it still uses the same simple clicker arrangement.
The Standard Nytro was supposed to be plusher than the RTX, while still considered a ROUGH TRAIL sled. With the stock shock damping, I feel it doesn't do either very well.
If anyone has a non- RTX setup that's working well, I'd be happy to hear about it.
I've got the Standard Nytro- non RTX version. I'm 6' 200lbs. I'm running Pilot 6.9 skis, my front limit strap is pulled in 1 notch from factory - no complaints on the front suspension other than does not rail as well as my 2000 SXr. As I stated before, the rear end in harsh on the stutters & bottoms bad on medium size G-out bumps. I tried increasing the rear torsion spring to H & also have tried my compression setting at max. Both these changes made the ride on stutters MUCH worse & made slight improvement to bottoming.
I'll quote from http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0
"One thing I did not touch on is "clickers". On the 07/08 Apex RTX, these work by adding a spring, a ball bearing and a "clicker screw" to tighten up the spring. This all sits on the remote reservoir, restricting the oil flow into the reservoir. The reason oil flows to/from the reservoir is due to the shock's shaft displacing the oil in the main shock body as the shock strokes. By further restricting the oil flow to the reservoir, the damping can be increased by tightening the "clicker".
Unfortunately, again this is a simple and primitive "clicker". As you tighten up the clicker it increases the low/mid to mid/high speed damping, further increasing the ride harshness. Unfortunately, once a big bump is hit, the ball bearing pushes hard enough to move back against the spring again opening up the oil restriction. Once again, although this helps to reduce bottoming, it doesn't do a very good job of it and it greatly increases the ride harshness at the same time. "
I currently have my compression back to 2 clicks harder than stock & rear torsion on M & have installed the anti-bottoming kit to control bottoming. This is far from an Ideal setup, but is an acceptable compromise. Maybe you can do better on an RTX, but even it still uses the same simple clicker arrangement.
The Standard Nytro was supposed to be plusher than the RTX, while still considered a ROUGH TRAIL sled. With the stock shock damping, I feel it doesn't do either very well.
If anyone has a non- RTX setup that's working well, I'd be happy to hear about it.
nate007
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2006
- Messages
- 2,770
- Location
- Iowa City, Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 1. '06 Apex -twin screw
2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
I may be wrong here, but you might actually try to soften the spring, and stiffen the shock. It may sound weird, but I've found that a softer spring forces the shock to work harder (eg, Apex blowing shocks alot!) I think what you are trying to do is make the sled ride stiff with the spring, which with your weight wont let the shock travel as far.
Im at least 240 with gear, and I thinkn my sled is great right out of the box. I can only bottom it on the botched landings, and in the stutter bumps, the harder I push it, the better it rides.
Now I'm not familiar with the settings on a standard version, and my sled isn't here to study it for a response, but one other thing that caught my attention with your post was that you shortened the strap. Did you also adjust the front springs to match? If you shorten the strap without lowering the front, you are effectively causing the sled to "bridge" between the skis and the back of the skid. This can cause some eratic issues as well. Does your sled wheelie very easilly? If not, you may have too much pressure on your front end, and the skid could be riding around coupled and not letting the shocks do their job properly.
Keep trying, and don't give up! I'm no suspension expert with the standards, so I still say to try starting another posts for a few other opinions, but I hope my thinking steers you in the right direction.
Im at least 240 with gear, and I thinkn my sled is great right out of the box. I can only bottom it on the botched landings, and in the stutter bumps, the harder I push it, the better it rides.
Now I'm not familiar with the settings on a standard version, and my sled isn't here to study it for a response, but one other thing that caught my attention with your post was that you shortened the strap. Did you also adjust the front springs to match? If you shorten the strap without lowering the front, you are effectively causing the sled to "bridge" between the skis and the back of the skid. This can cause some eratic issues as well. Does your sled wheelie very easilly? If not, you may have too much pressure on your front end, and the skid could be riding around coupled and not letting the shocks do their job properly.
Keep trying, and don't give up! I'm no suspension expert with the standards, so I still say to try starting another posts for a few other opinions, but I hope my thinking steers you in the right direction.
gormleyflyer2002
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
not trying to hyjack the thred....but for "yam07"
Nate mentions some very good pont. This sled even non RTX has many adjustments, make small steps and one at a time. It's sensitive thats for sure.
Anyway....for stutters I would suggest you run very little preload on the center shock.
My suggestion. (worth every penny btw) The stock valving is primative at best. But the skid can work very well if tuned.
Pull the shocks and send them for revalve. I had mine done and I can honestly say I have never had a skid that works this well. After a few test versions they came up with a set up that works on stutter bumps and big hits. Install 1/8-1/4" thicker coupling block and you'll be happy.
I now run my clickers on full open......shock valving does everything, fine tune with clicker to stiffen it up if it's flat fast and groomed. Big or small bumps get sucked up, no compromise, it works that good.
Like Nate mentions, its all about finding the balance.
Make sure whatever shop you use actually tests the calibrations on a snowmobile and on the trail..LOL. I used shocktec.ca and have heard great things about hygear.
ps. the stock spring gets a little sagged out, if so, stick it in a press and bend the offset (search for the thread) I have no idea how to test a torsion spring but I know that the difference between the stock and the heavy Yamaha spring is huge....on the trail anyway. Stock is supposed to be 1900 and heavy 2100....it doesn't feel like that believe me.......and I'm a big guy. (250 with gear)
Nate mentions some very good pont. This sled even non RTX has many adjustments, make small steps and one at a time. It's sensitive thats for sure.
Anyway....for stutters I would suggest you run very little preload on the center shock.
My suggestion. (worth every penny btw) The stock valving is primative at best. But the skid can work very well if tuned.
Pull the shocks and send them for revalve. I had mine done and I can honestly say I have never had a skid that works this well. After a few test versions they came up with a set up that works on stutter bumps and big hits. Install 1/8-1/4" thicker coupling block and you'll be happy.
I now run my clickers on full open......shock valving does everything, fine tune with clicker to stiffen it up if it's flat fast and groomed. Big or small bumps get sucked up, no compromise, it works that good.
Like Nate mentions, its all about finding the balance.
Make sure whatever shop you use actually tests the calibrations on a snowmobile and on the trail..LOL. I used shocktec.ca and have heard great things about hygear.
ps. the stock spring gets a little sagged out, if so, stick it in a press and bend the offset (search for the thread) I have no idea how to test a torsion spring but I know that the difference between the stock and the heavy Yamaha spring is huge....on the trail anyway. Stock is supposed to be 1900 and heavy 2100....it doesn't feel like that believe me.......and I'm a big guy. (250 with gear)
