strommin mn
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Just going through the Yammy before the season as I just picked it up this spring. Noticed the clutch side driveshaft bearing was ball less. Inner and outer race only. So I have replaced the chain case bearing as a precaution and now inserting the clutch side bearing on the shaft and into position. Is this bearing suppose to just slide in with some slop? I am able to grab the driveshaft and wiggle the bearing around sloppy in the pocket. I am able to wrap the outer race with a .005 shim to take the slop out. Does the retaining cap hold this bearing in place. I'm afraid it has spun and not sure what normal fit is.


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Just going through the Yammy before the season as I just picked it up this spring. Noticed the clutch side driveshaft bearing was ball less. Inner and outer race only. So I have replaced the chain case bearing as a precaution and now inserting the clutch side bearing on the shaft and into position. Is this bearing suppose to just slide in with some slop? I am able to grab the driveshaft and wiggle the bearing around sloppy in the pocket. I am able to wrap the outer race with a .005 shim to take the slop out. Does the retaining cap hold this bearing in place. I'm afraid it has spun and not sure what normal fit is.
Should not have that kind of movemet.. the bearing is probably shot or the retainer spun off.
Shootis
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Sorry, I thought this was about the jackshaft not driveshaft.
My bad
My bad
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strommin mn
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This is a new bearing on both the crank case and the clutch side driveshaft. I have read some posts where members have said they release the set screws on the bearing to the shaft and "pop out" and replace the clutch side driveshaft bearing. Makes me think they are a slip fit and the cap retainer "holds" it in place. What I am trying to figure out is did the old bearing turn in the bearing bore before it blew up and open this hole which may cause me problems down the road. Maybe I have been sold the wrong bearing. Does anyone know the outside diameter measurement of a known good bearing so I could compare?
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Winderallday!
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The inner race should slide/slip over the drive axle. If the set screws have left marks or upset on the shaft, this should be cleaned off with a file or emery paper or the bearing won't slide on properly. Normally, this bearing should slide/slip out easily with track tension removed.
The outer race of this bearing is trapped by the stamped round shell #44 that is secured up against the tunnel with 4 nuts, there is a similar round shell #66 riveted inside the tunnel with the threaded studs that secure these two halves together. If these two halves are not secured together when you are checking for fit/slop, then there may be some clearance yet. If the round shells have wear where the outer race is clamped, then yes, bearing could have spun and scored up this surface and might account for the slop.
A note about the set screws in the drive axle bearing, if you have the skid out of the tunnel, you should not tighten the set screws until skid is installed and bolted up. The A-arm "sets" the tunnel width with the front swing arm mounts. If the set screws are tightened to the driveshaft before installing skid, then the driveshaft is setting the tunnel width.
When you go to tighten the A-arm bolts, you will be fighting the set screws on the bearing creating side load on the bearing. Similarly, when removing the skid loosen off the set screws to allow the tunnel to relax slightly, makes it easier to remove and re-install if you do this.
Cheers.
The outer race of this bearing is trapped by the stamped round shell #44 that is secured up against the tunnel with 4 nuts, there is a similar round shell #66 riveted inside the tunnel with the threaded studs that secure these two halves together. If these two halves are not secured together when you are checking for fit/slop, then there may be some clearance yet. If the round shells have wear where the outer race is clamped, then yes, bearing could have spun and scored up this surface and might account for the slop.
A note about the set screws in the drive axle bearing, if you have the skid out of the tunnel, you should not tighten the set screws until skid is installed and bolted up. The A-arm "sets" the tunnel width with the front swing arm mounts. If the set screws are tightened to the driveshaft before installing skid, then the driveshaft is setting the tunnel width.
When you go to tighten the A-arm bolts, you will be fighting the set screws on the bearing creating side load on the bearing. Similarly, when removing the skid loosen off the set screws to allow the tunnel to relax slightly, makes it easier to remove and re-install if you do this.
Cheers.
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strommin mn
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Great info. I was not aware of the bearing set screws needing to be loose when putting skid back in. I am at that point now. Thanks so much.
Metallicat
TY 4 Stroke God
Never would have thought of that myself. I just went through this whole procedure and tightened the set screws before installing the rear suspension. Maybe I should relax the screws now and retighten?Great info. I was not aware of the bearing set screws needing to be loose when putting skid back in. I am at that point now. Thanks so much.

hibshman25
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Another pointer....
Chaincase should be assembled prior to making set screws tight. The lower gear bolt draws the driveshaft against the bearing in case. If set screws are tight before lower bolt is installed there could be lateral stress on speedo bearing if set screws hold.
Chaincase should be assembled prior to making set screws tight. The lower gear bolt draws the driveshaft against the bearing in case. If set screws are tight before lower bolt is installed there could be lateral stress on speedo bearing if set screws hold.
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