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09 RTX SE Rear Shock Rebuild Spec Questions?

lukesju

Extreme
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
109
Location
Duluth, MN
These are my questionsfor the rear shock on an 09 RTX SE. Which IFP ring does it take. IFP depth? Nitrogen Pressure? Any information would be helpful. Thanks
 

I have no idea. I send my stuff to the experts with the right shock testing equipment and set up info - Carver Performance.
 
I did some digging on these, and the shop in Carver was able to help me out. It turns out, no one as of yet makes IFP O-rings for these shocks. If the shocks are not leaking, they change fluid and recharge. If the IFP is bad, they machine out the IFP to fit another o-ring. It sounds like they are working with an aftermarket supplier to develope an aftermarket o-ring for these. I forget what those rear shocks are called, but they are not Ohlins or KYB's. The PSI is 200, but the IFP depth is burried deep in Yamaha's vault and it will not be given out. So, put the piston so it's not bottomed out and recharge
 
Yes, the shocks are so technically advanced that they use a cheap stamped steel IFP with a cheap nylon piston ring. The brand i believe is SOQI, as I mentioned in many other posts, I wouldn't put a dime into these shocks if I was to do it again.
 
LJ452 - I've been reading your shock posts for some time. In (7) months from now, I plan on addressing my shocks. I'm a little curious to what new shocks you would recommend.
 
Yes, the front coil GYTR's and rear shocks are made by Soqi. I don't think they are bad shocks but they are not at the same level as Fox, Walker Evans or Ohlins.

I've never had an issue with them blowing out or leaking and Carver's valving changes really worked for me. But, I agree, I wouldn't spend a bunch of money on them trying to get them to be more equal to the other brands. A guy is better off just buying a set of high end shocks because the parts, tuning and set up knowledge is broader and more available. Carver knows the high end brands very well and will have sales on shocks.
 
AKrider - It sounds like you were satisfied with your revalve while saving a lot of money. Help me understand what you really notice from the revale. Is it in the handling or going through the bumps where you notice the improvement? Do you know how many miles the revalve will typically last before doing this work again? There's been alot a talk about this. But I would like to specifically know what are the improvements.
 
Basically the stock shocks come set up with an average rider in mind doing average things. It is really difficult for the OEM to determine what average is. The beauty of having rebuildable shocks is you can have them revalved for your weight and riding style.

Carver will have you fill out a form listing your weight and riding style. They will ask you what you don't like about your current settings and what you want it to do. They can also recommend settings they found have worked well in the past. They gain this knowledge from tons of testing and working closely with racers. They have shock dynos that allow them to quantify the changes they make.

There are hundreds of guys and shops that can rebuild and revalve shocks but there are only a few that have the knowledge and experience to do it well. I really like Carver and they have done the shocks for the Yamaha race teams.

My stock Nytro was too soft for my weight and riding style. I cross country race and want to go as fast as possible through bumps on rough trails. The stock shocks, even with the clickers turned all the way stiff were too soft. My sled would bottom, swap, become uncontrollable forcing me to slow down. After having my shocks revalved by Carver I could go faster through the same bumps and the sled did not bottom anywhere near as often and was more controllable and fun to ride. The thing about suspension tuning is it is addicting. There is a saying that you can build enough power of out of an engine to where the rider/racer will quit asking for more power. But, you can never build a suspension so good that the rider/racer will quit asking for improvements.

The other thing I noticed when my shocks were rebuilt and revalved was that the clickers really made a difference between each click. I'd recommend having your shocks rebuilt every year or two, depending upon how much you ride. If you are working the shocks really hard through the bumps than the oil will break down quicker and there will be more wear on the components. A guy doing distance rides on smooth groomed trails won't be working his shocks as hard.

Shocks valved to your riding style will help improve handling because the sled will be more composed in the rough and will go where steer it. If you have your shocks revalved and provide the correct information and the ride difference will be night and day. But, a guy really needs to think about what you are trying to achieve and be honest about your abilities. You may not even get it right the first time. I remember going for my first ride after one of my revalves and the trail was set up and icy. I requested that I wanted my shocks valved much stiffer than before and the shocks initially felt like they were filled with wet cement. My Nytro was jarring over the little stutters that it soaked up before. I then discovered I gained more confidence in my sled and kept going faster and faster through the bumpy trail. I got to the point I wanted them even stiffer!

With my Nytro I would have been able to appreciate high end Fox or Ohlin shocks and actually use them to their full capability. But, that is a large investment into 4 shocks and didn't make sense to me since the wonky Nytro front end held me back from going as fast as I could. It was easier and made more financial sense to just buy a different sled.
 
I put in a Fox zero pro , and is a way better shock, even though there's no clicker. It works better over a wide range of conditions than the stock clicker factoring in all the adjustments, and for $249 (Caver)
 
What AK stated is right on, I originally was under the impression that I would have my Nytro for a long time and just work with/through the handling issues improving things year after year. Shocks were not something I was worried about as I figured I got the S.E. and had the best offerings. The front, Fox's are the second best Floats you an buy in my eyes very nice, this was probably the best choice Yamaha has ever made in terms of shock selection on a sled, given the purpose. The rears I had thought were matched, problem is that the parts are not available so it costs hundreds of dollars to replace/repair. Meanwhile a set of std. Fox non rese/clicker shocks on guys sled I ride with are working just as good, not exploding and we are able to rebuild them ourselves. Parts are readily available as is knowledgable shops like Carver who is willing to work with the guys whom want to do the work themselves.

If you plan to keep you sled for many years, I would have them revalved as, AK mentioned. It's fairly inexpensive, and will improve the ride greatly. At that point I would begin the mission of replacing one per year (skid shocks only). Or if money permits just get the new ones now, as mentioned it can start at $600 and go to well over $2000 if you want. Personally I think getting the $600 package valved correctly will probably be better than what you have now, then add clickers and what not as you wish. Sell the stockers for a few hundred and be done with it. Just for a perspective I had to replace the shaft on my center shock as the chrome was worn off due to the head seal breaking down, that cost nearly $300, I could have just bought a Fox, used the stock clicker (replace steel IFP) and been better off as the center exploded the following year. I obviously had a bad experience with the stockers, some love them and have had good experiences. For me hindsight is 20/20.
 
Hygear revalved my rear shock, only to have it split apart. Wasted alot of money. I replaced it with fox, and works better than revalve.
 


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