zackn291
Expert
Sled specs:
07 Phazer GT
10,000km(6,200mi)
Always maintained by the dealer and my dad and I.
Never had a single problem until now.
All stock except 6 Uni pods all in the airbox cover.
Well like they say, When it rains, it pours.
Yesterday was a big day, we rode 330km(215mi?) before code 14 and 26 popped up. When my sled cut out on my I realized that I had a blown shock which made the whoops in the corners so rough. When she cut out it made a weird sound that I think was parts of my suspension rubbing on the track. I never actually heard a noise that seemed like it came from the engine.
Anyway, I got my sled home lastnight and started taking it apart. I noticed my Airbox was very loose and felt like it was detatched from the throttle bodies(I've never had the airbox off). Sure enough it was, so I was sucking in snow right at the TB for atleast the past 330km? (roughly)... Code 14 is for Cylinder 1 and 26 is for Cylinder 2. They both mean the exact same thing which is..
Symptom: Intake air pressure sensor: Hose system malfunction(clogged or detatched hose).
Propable cause of malfunction: Intake air pressure sensor hose is detatched, clogged, kinked or pinched. Malfunction in ECU.
CODE 14 IS CYL1 and CODE 26 IS CYL2.. both codes MEAN THE EXACT SAME THING.
...............................
As I said, I have 6 Uni pods. But one of the filters is missing and it was throughout the whole ride yesterday and even the week before. I checked the airbox for the filter and found nothing. I rode atleast 600km like this so if the filter went through the throttle body you think that it would of immediatly made a problem. But it didnt, my sled ran completely fine and normal with no changed at all. With the airbox not being attatched to the TB for only god knows how long, the filter could of went out in the space between the airbox and TB. I'm ruling out that the filter is clogged in the intake somewhere.
I ment to cover the open pod with tape yesterday morning but forgot too.
..........................................
I'm thinking if it sucked alot of snow I should almost treat the whole situation like I sunk the sled in water. So I drain all fluids? then what..
What do you guys suggest I do?
07 Phazer GT
10,000km(6,200mi)
Always maintained by the dealer and my dad and I.
Never had a single problem until now.
All stock except 6 Uni pods all in the airbox cover.
Well like they say, When it rains, it pours.
Yesterday was a big day, we rode 330km(215mi?) before code 14 and 26 popped up. When my sled cut out on my I realized that I had a blown shock which made the whoops in the corners so rough. When she cut out it made a weird sound that I think was parts of my suspension rubbing on the track. I never actually heard a noise that seemed like it came from the engine.
Anyway, I got my sled home lastnight and started taking it apart. I noticed my Airbox was very loose and felt like it was detatched from the throttle bodies(I've never had the airbox off). Sure enough it was, so I was sucking in snow right at the TB for atleast the past 330km? (roughly)... Code 14 is for Cylinder 1 and 26 is for Cylinder 2. They both mean the exact same thing which is..
Symptom: Intake air pressure sensor: Hose system malfunction(clogged or detatched hose).
Propable cause of malfunction: Intake air pressure sensor hose is detatched, clogged, kinked or pinched. Malfunction in ECU.
CODE 14 IS CYL1 and CODE 26 IS CYL2.. both codes MEAN THE EXACT SAME THING.
...............................
As I said, I have 6 Uni pods. But one of the filters is missing and it was throughout the whole ride yesterday and even the week before. I checked the airbox for the filter and found nothing. I rode atleast 600km like this so if the filter went through the throttle body you think that it would of immediatly made a problem. But it didnt, my sled ran completely fine and normal with no changed at all. With the airbox not being attatched to the TB for only god knows how long, the filter could of went out in the space between the airbox and TB. I'm ruling out that the filter is clogged in the intake somewhere.
I ment to cover the open pod with tape yesterday morning but forgot too.
..........................................
I'm thinking if it sucked alot of snow I should almost treat the whole situation like I sunk the sled in water. So I drain all fluids? then what..
What do you guys suggest I do?
bnsf205
Extreme
I've got codes 13 and 14??? Tried all the ideas I can find on here so far with no luck.
zackn291
Expert
bnsf205 said:I've got codes 13 and 14??? Tried all the ideas I can find on here so far with no luck.
Does your sled run?
Mine tries to start, its close but not enough go.
......................................
Heres an update..
Its not a blown shock. Its a broken linkage something or other, ill post pics soon.
And for those of your who are familiar with the Uni pod filters, the little C clip that holds the filter in, was found right inside the intake by the valves. No filter has been found yet.
We also found that one of the engine mounts was not screwed in so we gotta get a nut for it. No damage was done to the bolt so all we need is the nut and then we will hook the airbox back up and see what we get for codes when we start the sled.
The uni pods are baaaad! I also sucked a filter through my carbs and almost one of the c clips. Pull out all the c-clips and safety wire the foam in. As far as code 14 and 26, the 2 plugs on the back of airbox sometimes cut the wires, peticularely if its been moving around. Also dont forget there are vacume hoses that plug into underside of before mentioned plugs.
zackn291
Expert
I'm getting a new airbox cover.. No more Uni pod mod.
No wires look cut but I'll check. I think the filter is right in one of the cylinders. Might be looking at pulling the head off and taking a look!
No wires look cut but I'll check. I think the filter is right in one of the cylinders. Might be looking at pulling the head off and taking a look!
zackn291
Expert
Broken link
Broken link
zackn291
Expert
My dad was the one taking the TB apart and it turns out the TB came detached right from the Engine. I didnt know this but he just told me that. So obviously the engine wasn't getting fuel due to the TB being attached.
80h4thephaze
Expert
If you still have the airbox off, how hard is it to get at the a arms bolts? Top a arm specifically.
Ruckus
TY 4 Stroke Master
You can get at the back side of the upper a arm with a 14mm box end wrench with the air box out. You can't see it but if you turn thebolt from the front you will feel the nut rotate. Put the wrench on and let it bring yp in the steering spindle. Pull the bolt and watch out that the nut doesn't fall in the belly pan, lol.
bnsf205
Extreme
Ya mine will run. I have to crack the throttle a little. I did find that one of the wires is cut and it right behind the clip with no room to splice another wire in there to make it work. Not sure what to do now. Any ideas?
zackn291
Expert
No ideas for ya..
Does anyone know of the TB coming detatched from the engine before?
Does anyone know of the TB coming detatched from the engine before?
zackn291
Expert
No ideas for ya..
Does anyone know of the TB coming detatched from the engine before?
Does anyone know of the TB coming detatched from the engine before?
bnsf205
Extreme
I can't find the wiring harness on yamaha's parts site either. No idea if I can buy that and just replace it or try to splice it somehow.
Prav
Pro
zackn291 said:No ideas for ya..
Does anyone know of the TB coming detatched from the engine before?
Mine were separated when I bought the sled last spring. I noticed it as I tore the sled down and inspected everything. You have to unscrew the nut and loosen the clamp around it to re-align the boot. It's important that thing is on there the right way so it doesn't suck air at the boot. Kind of a PITA.... but doable.
bnsf205 said:I can't find the wiring harness on yamaha's parts site either. No idea if I can buy that and just replace it or try to splice it somehow.
There is a real small tab that holds the connector end in the plug.Usually you can use a very small pick or take a piece of Mig welding wire and hammer it flat to use to disengage the tab.Once out you should be able to salvage the end.
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