• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

136 with skid relocate


bmaz, the bolt conversation has nothign to do with the Star relocate kit, it is an issue with the stock bolt on the chain case side of the drive shaft breaking. It is a known issue with the earlier nytros (I'm not positive if they eventually fixed it on the most recent sleds). When the bolt breaks, you can run w/out it, but there are folks that say it's a bad idea to do so, while others have put thousands of miles on with no issues. Some folks have machined a spacer that fits between the bolt head and the shaft that supposedly solves the issue, and some folks just continue to run a stock bolt, or stronger replacement bolt. I didn't mean to muck this thread up with this subject, just saw that Grizz was currently in there and wondering how he was handling it (he usually has a pretty approach to solving issues with these sleds)
 
Track is hung and the ohlins center shock arrived so it's time to get the skid back in



20 minutes later and I now have a 136" Nytro RTX with a skid relocate.


 
How the hell do you get that track installed in 20 minutes? I wrestle that skid inside the track forever before it finally goes in. What's the trick?
 
I'm going to leave the light for now but I have been looking at a couple of options:


Knight Rider LED
Proven Design LED Polaris
Proven Design LED Yamaha

The skid actually goes in easy once you learn a few tricks. Using a chain fall to hoist the rear of the sled helps a lot.

I'm also interested in how the Ohlins shock is going to perform compared to the stock RTX shock. I previously had Hygear's dual rate springs and a Pioneer Performance revalve with the OEM shock and really liked the setup. I was told the Ohlins was revalved last year by Pioneer so I'm going to start with that along with the coil spring that came on it. I have a set of dual rate springs that I think will work on the Ohlins so I may eventually try setting it up with that. I started the year out with the Hygear Slicast upper a-arms but didn't get much of a chance to actually get a feel for them and now with all the changes I have no idea what to expect when I finally get back out on the trails.
 
i'm going to be doing this last year. i've done all the calculations and you come up with 135 inches in theory with a 136 track. i've seen it done many times so i know it works but i don't have extros so i'm wondering if i need to switch if the track is on the loose side. let me know how tight you can get your track. i currently need mine pretty tight so when i go off trail i don't ratchet. thanks
 
Grizz, couple of questions...with the relocation kit shifting skid rearward is there a need to run anti stabs up front on rail tips? How did you find the Tracks USA extension kit specifically the tunnel extension and rail extensions. Any advantage to picking up the Muffinworks tipped extensions as compared to the straight ones? And lastly any opinion on the 136 1.352" Cobra track? Thanks appreciate your feedback.
 
I haven't had any concerns about the front of the rails stabbing the track. With the track adjusted properly for the stock drivers I don't think there's an issue with the skid being relocated back although it might not hurt to run an anti stab wheel kit. The Tracks USA rail and tunnel extensions are as good as any other kit available. I contacted muffinworks first but they don't sell a 4" rail extension which is what was needed for me to install the 136" track with the relocate. With the relocate and 4" extensions there isn't enough rail being added to properly tip them up. I would've had to remove the relocate or go to a 144" track if I wanted the rails tipped. A 144" is to long for me and I think the relocate is more beneficial than tipping the rails on a relatively short sled. I haven't ran a Cobra so I can't comment on it but I really like the Ice Attack on the trails.
 


Back
Top