Hello everyone,
As the typical Venture owner, my passenger hand warmers weren't working over the last two seasons that I've owned the sled. I found the issue being at the switch so I ordered a new one. I tested the connector before connecting the switch to see if power was getting to the unit and I measured 17 volts at idle. The should hardly be any voltage at idle since the system only sends a signal once the computer senses a certain RPM range and the battery is charging.
17 is way too high which probably burnt out my original switch, for some odd reason I didn't bother to test out the battery voltage with the machine running so I'm hoping to go up this weekend to test that out.
I just want to be sure that I have the correct information incase I need to test more of the electrical components.
If the battery checks out at idle, I would need to test out the stator to see if the output is correct. I believe the stator should be putting out 20-30 volts AC when running or I can do an ohms reading to see if it's in range (0.22 - 0.26 ohms)?
If the stator checks out, then I should verify the rectifier/regulator to see if the output is good, I'm not 100% how to test this while it's running, do I place my diodes on both pins to see the voltage or do I ground to the battery?
Also, is it possible that the Relay is causing this issue? I'd hate to burn out another $200 switch.
As the typical Venture owner, my passenger hand warmers weren't working over the last two seasons that I've owned the sled. I found the issue being at the switch so I ordered a new one. I tested the connector before connecting the switch to see if power was getting to the unit and I measured 17 volts at idle. The should hardly be any voltage at idle since the system only sends a signal once the computer senses a certain RPM range and the battery is charging.
17 is way too high which probably burnt out my original switch, for some odd reason I didn't bother to test out the battery voltage with the machine running so I'm hoping to go up this weekend to test that out.
I just want to be sure that I have the correct information incase I need to test more of the electrical components.
If the battery checks out at idle, I would need to test out the stator to see if the output is correct. I believe the stator should be putting out 20-30 volts AC when running or I can do an ohms reading to see if it's in range (0.22 - 0.26 ohms)?
If the stator checks out, then I should verify the rectifier/regulator to see if the output is good, I'm not 100% how to test this while it's running, do I place my diodes on both pins to see the voltage or do I ground to the battery?
Also, is it possible that the Relay is causing this issue? I'd hate to burn out another $200 switch.
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
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You should check your voltage at the battery while running. You might have a bad voltage regulator. If it's the same, don't run it too much like that or you'll cook the battery.
On second thought, I don't remember if the rear warmers are also PWM controlled so the voltage you're seeing might be from a PWM source. The schematics should show it's regulated by a relay or the ECU.
On second thought, I don't remember if the rear warmers are also PWM controlled so the voltage you're seeing might be from a PWM source. The schematics should show it's regulated by a relay or the ECU.
Hi Mooseman,
I imagine that I can check at the charge ports coming out the right side? or should I check directly on the battery ports?
I believe that the rear warmers are controlled by the ECU which then goes through the relay. I can't seem to find any schematics for this sled anywhere. Would you happen to have some available? I just purchase a VIP membership a few minutes ago.
Thanks for your help!
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2009
- Messages
- 3,944
- Location
- Greely, Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- '07 Venture MP (gone)
'07 Phazer FX (gone)
'09 Phazer GT (gone)
'10 RS Venture GT (My current ride)
'10 Nytro FX (son's)
- LOCATION
- Greely, ON Canada
You can measure right on the battery. Properly charging, it should show around 14V. If it's 17V, that's what is going through the whole sled and will burn stuff out.
Attached a copy of the 2010 rear warmer schematics. Should be the same as 2009. Looks like there is a relay controlled by the ECU but should just show battery voltage when on. Also check the voltage at the fuse.
Attached a copy of the 2010 rear warmer schematics. Should be the same as 2009. Looks like there is a relay controlled by the ECU but should just show battery voltage when on. Also check the voltage at the fuse.
Thanks Mooseman, I really appreciate the schematics. It's interesting how they wired these in..
My only concern with testing directly at the battery is that I would have to run it without the airbox, I imagine it should be fine since it's a short period of time and the temperature sensor is still reading the same ambient temp for that short time.
I'm really hoping I can get up to the cottage this weekend to test things out because it's driving me crazy now lol I also bought a relay from Rock so just waitng on that to ship out.
I was able to make it up to the cottage this weekend and I'm back with results, I feel like a dummy.
I tested the voltage at the battery while idling and received a reading of 14.3. I was getting the same reading at the fuse and the connector for the hand warmers this time around.
So what happened when I originally tested the connector last time is that I didn't think I could reach and successfully hold my multimeter leads at both the connector and the negative at the same time as they are quite distant from each other so I used a car battery to ground to. This gave me incorrect readings, I thought I could ground to anything but I guess not..
So everything seems good!
I tested the voltage at the battery while idling and received a reading of 14.3. I was getting the same reading at the fuse and the connector for the hand warmers this time around.
So what happened when I originally tested the connector last time is that I didn't think I could reach and successfully hold my multimeter leads at both the connector and the negative at the same time as they are quite distant from each other so I used a car battery to ground to. This gave me incorrect readings, I thought I could ground to anything but I guess not..
So everything seems good!
