lakercr
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How long do you think it would take to swap the 2-up seat in/out once you've done the initial install?
actionjack
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Under 1 minute.
1100saber
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I had a rototeck titan touring seat on my last sled...but not looking to go that route again..it was just too big. But it did come with a large support plate that went from the front bolt, to the rear bolt and mounted on the inside of the tunnel. Does the seat jack not have anything like this?
actionjack
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No. there is a small 2" wide angle plate for the rear mounts. It gets riveted to the flat of the tunnel and to the bumper. I felt like something similar would be sensible at the front mount point. You could easily make your own interior plate reinforcement to span them both using the template. We will see how this holds up this winter.
actionjack
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thanks for your help and the pics...I think i will order this seat. I'll take the advice and just use the template to make a re-enforcement plate to span across both.
Polxlt
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How did this hold up for you?No. there is a small 2" wide angle plate for the rear mounts. It gets riveted to the flat of the tunnel and to the bumper. I felt like something similar would be sensible at the front mount point. You could easily make your own interior plate reinforcement to span them both using the template. We will see how this holds up this winter.
Polxlt
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Did you order the seat?thanks for your help and the pics...I think i will order this seat. I'll take the advice and just use the template to make a re-enforcement plate to span across both.
How did you do with the re-enforcement plate?
Pic?
actionjack
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To be honest I dont have a lot of miles on my 2up seat (zero this year). To me it works great. I do not have any tunnel damage and doubt it would happen at all on a 137" SRV chassis, with or without moving the seat forward. My daughters and my wife prefer to hold on to the driver rather than the grips. If you are planning an install I would recommend moving the seat forward, support plates, and most importantly foot holds or blocks for passengers to engage their legs for stability. In order to move the seat forward you will have to modify the base plates that engage the tunnel pegs to fit around the rear mounting point of the running board.How did this hold up for you?
Polxlt
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Can you show me a picture how you did:
"It gets riveted to the flat of the tunnel and to the bumper"
"It gets riveted to the flat of the tunnel and to the bumper"
No. there is a small 2" wide angle plate for the rear mounts. It gets riveted to the flat of the tunnel and to the bumper. I felt like something similar would be sensible at the front mount point. You could easily make your own interior plate reinforcement to span them both using the template. We will see how this holds up this winter.
actionjack
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Polxlt
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Thanks for the pics.
In my instruction it says that the rivets should also be mounted on top of the tunnel. Did you mounted the rivets on top of the tunnel? Se my instruction from Kimpex
Last edited:
actionjack
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Yes I just dont have any photos showing that. I used black rivets in the top since the tunnel is black.View attachment 148838
Tanks for the pics.
In my instruction it says that the rivets should also be mounted on top of the tunnel. Did you mounted the rivets on top of the tunnel? Se my instruction from Kimpex
Polxlt
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How did you manage to do that when the radiator is in the way?Yes I just dont have any photos showing that. I used black rivets in the top since the tunnel is black.
actionjack
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I think if you get under the tunnel and test fit the piece in place you will find that the length of the top horizontal portion of that bracket is not interfered by the tunnel heat exchangers.
Errr
It fits. It did on my sled. I suspect it will on yours.
Errr
It fits. It did on my sled. I suspect it will on yours.
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