LOKI-PK
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2003
- Messages
- 9
I have a 2004 warrior and I like a lot of things about it, but not so thrilled with others. The sled feels tippy,like the old exciters, and doesnt handle the corners the way I would like it to :cry: . I am used to a lower center of gravity like the v-max4 and the srv. Seems as though the inside ski always wants to come up and I AM leaning into it ,,HARD.. And I weigh 240#.
What adjustments can I make to the suspension to compensate for this? I have looked around a little and found a wider stance set-up, and also a 12mm sway bar etc.
But my question is what good will these adjustments do?
How will they effect the handling of the sled and why?
where can I learn more... as I am happy with the performance of the engine and the handling in the straightaways (she's a BEAR and wants to RUN!! :twisted: )...Damn I can't wait till the Lakes freeze and I get a couple thousand feet of straight run!!
Thanks for any assistance and knowledge, in advance
What adjustments can I make to the suspension to compensate for this? I have looked around a little and found a wider stance set-up, and also a 12mm sway bar etc.
But my question is what good will these adjustments do?
How will they effect the handling of the sled and why?
where can I learn more... as I am happy with the performance of the engine and the handling in the straightaways (she's a BEAR and wants to RUN!! :twisted: )...Damn I can't wait till the Lakes freeze and I get a couple thousand feet of straight run!!
Thanks for any assistance and knowledge, in advance
LOKI-PK,
First of all welcome aboard. :wink:
12mm sway bar will help with lnside lift but you should also
adjust your front limiter staps.Tighten them up so it shows about
an inch - inch & half thread below nut. Also there are some
staight rate springs available if you still require after this adjustment
there is no 100% cure for this problem its one which you'll get use
to and live with after you get some miles on this thing.
Trust me it'll grow on you once you get the feel.
TB
First of all welcome aboard. :wink:
12mm sway bar will help with lnside lift but you should also
adjust your front limiter staps.Tighten them up so it shows about
an inch - inch & half thread below nut. Also there are some
staight rate springs available if you still require after this adjustment
there is no 100% cure for this problem its one which you'll get use
to and live with after you get some miles on this thing.
Trust me it'll grow on you once you get the feel.
TB
RTX Meirda
TY 4 Stroke Master
My suggestions is really hard springs...as always. When you go hard into a corner, the last thing that you want is for the inside spring to compress. If it does, once the motion stops, the energy will be transferred into lifting one ski.
In my opinion, you want the front suspension to work when hitting the hard bumps.
Put at least 2.7 frt springs. I am running 3.0 and it works great.....don't knock it 'till you try it.
In my opinion, you want the front suspension to work when hitting the hard bumps.
Put at least 2.7 frt springs. I am running 3.0 and it works great.....don't knock it 'till you try it.
Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
I also did the updates on my 03, but the biggy for keepin the front down was the limit straps! I started at three treads and worked up from there, now I am at 7/8 of an inch. Perfect for me, make sure to get some seat time, that has alot to it! Give it awhile you'll love it!! Welcome to TY!! Honk
LOKI-PK
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2003
- Messages
- 9
Honk said:
What effect will this have?
What does it do? is it a weight transfer up or down...
how will tightening the front end springs keep the nose down in the turns?
what about the control rod adjustment in the rear to bring the weight a little more foward.
What about the adjustments to the rear suspension? any effect or success there?
Also ...what effect does the longer sway bar have?
could I possibly ask more questions in a single post?
Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
LOKI, by pulling in the limit straps it will put more weight on the front end. (skis) This works well, only go a couple threads at a time. You can also put more weight on the front end by putting more spring preload to the front skid shock. Play with it , you will find the correct spot for you!talk to ya Honk
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
Loki, welcome
I'm working on the same problem, check the other posts on this site, that's where I got my ideas from :wink:
The one suggestion that did the most for the ride on my RX 1, was to loosen the rear/rear shock spring all the way and put the FTR on the hard setting (closer to the ground) I then put 1/4" of preload on the front track shock - Night and Day difference. 8) You most likely will just have to make a few clicks on your shock :wink: My point is this:
TY Rocks :twisted:
I'm still tweaking but I'm getting very close. Thanks All
I'm working on the same problem, check the other posts on this site, that's where I got my ideas from :wink:
The one suggestion that did the most for the ride on my RX 1, was to loosen the rear/rear shock spring all the way and put the FTR on the hard setting (closer to the ground) I then put 1/4" of preload on the front track shock - Night and Day difference. 8) You most likely will just have to make a few clicks on your shock :wink: My point is this:
TY Rocks :twisted:
I'm still tweaking but I'm getting very close. Thanks All
Ted Jannetty
TY 4 Stroke God
THIS CAN'T GET ANY SIMPLER, INSTALL SKI DOO PRECISION SKIS!
This widens the front stance by 5" affectively, your scags are in the center of the ski, the precision skis are on the outside 2.5" from center.
This cured all my handling problems and made the sled carve quicker and easier, bars turn easier as well.
Ski Doo offers a specific bridge kit to install the skis on Yamaha, Polaris, and Arcticat, with instructions for each.
This widens the front stance by 5" affectively, your scags are in the center of the ski, the precision skis are on the outside 2.5" from center.
This cured all my handling problems and made the sled carve quicker and easier, bars turn easier as well.
Ski Doo offers a specific bridge kit to install the skis on Yamaha, Polaris, and Arcticat, with instructions for each.
I have a full season on my precision skis, love em. I put mine on early last year before there was a kit, still not difficult.
LOKI-PK
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2003
- Messages
- 9
Wont putting more pre-load on the front rear shock push the nose up? thus taking weight OFF the skis? wouldn't it be better to soften the front rear shock a little and stiffen the rear skid shock?Honk said:
Is there somewhere that I can learn more about the physics involved here?
What about the spring pre-load for the skis? will tightening the spring pre-load push the ski's down more? or will it just stiffen the ride?
Also what is the definition of "darting"?
thanks for all the input so far
Vermontguy
Newbie
Thanks for posting Loki. I just got back from my first break in ride on mine and have the same problem. I dress out at a good 250lbs and last year I had a 700SX and that thing cornered with little effort, my warrior just likes to go straight! I was also bottoming out a little more than I like, I will try the straps as suggested. Thanks everyone for the great info. I wish there was some documentation on what all the adjust ments do. I read the manual and that tells me diddly other than "go see your dealer" :roll:
A
Anonymous
You can buy amanual at your dealer on the proaction system[comes with a vidio tape]Called Proaction System suspention tuning manual. Only cost about 25 bucks in Canada.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
Loki,
Check your wearbars. If they're stock they're not much good past 300 miles - no carbide wear pads. Tightening the limiter straps actually increases the ski preassure, try it and see for yourself. I know it's a hard concept to grasp at first, but you have to trust the physics and the engineers who put it to use:wink:
Also, tightening the front springs causes the spring to put more pressure on the skis as there is more linear force applied in both directions (a spring has more stored energy the further it is compressed). The energy from the compessed spring has to go somewhere. Too much and it becomes real-tippy though.
Check your wearbars. If they're stock they're not much good past 300 miles - no carbide wear pads. Tightening the limiter straps actually increases the ski preassure, try it and see for yourself. I know it's a hard concept to grasp at first, but you have to trust the physics and the engineers who put it to use:wink:
Also, tightening the front springs causes the spring to put more pressure on the skis as there is more linear force applied in both directions (a spring has more stored energy the further it is compressed). The energy from the compessed spring has to go somewhere. Too much and it becomes real-tippy though.
LOKI-PK
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2003
- Messages
- 9
wear bars?
do you mean the hyfax?
or are you refering to the skegs? if you mean the ski runners, they are brand new, less than 200 miles.
Also whats the difference between the full rate adjustment and tightening the limit straps? what will the result of each be?
do you mean the hyfax?
or are you refering to the skegs? if you mean the ski runners, they are brand new, less than 200 miles.
Also whats the difference between the full rate adjustment and tightening the limit straps? what will the result of each be?
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
No, skegs. Again, If they're stock, check them you'll be surprised. I estimate I lost my carbide at 200 miles.
OK Loki, Good question, and I'm going to stick my neck out here. Guys, Feel free to jump in and correct me if I'm wrong here .
(I've been corrected...so I changed it slightly Bolded text)
If I'm not mistaken the limitter straps play a role in the initial weight distribution (all of track vs. part of the track) When the straps are tightened it raises the front of the skid and puts more down-force on the rear of the track and the skis, resulting in more ski preasure, as you take weight distribution away from the middle portion of the sled. I have 1" or so left on my strap adjustment. This is key to working with your initial ski preasure, as an overly tight or stiff spring makes the sled too tippy and overly bouncy. I have mine set too stiff right now and I pay for it when I hit those mounds that are left behind by previous hill climbers. This has caused me to end up off-course and sometimes on my side (boy are these things heavy ) So if you want more initial ski preasure first check your bars, then tighten your straps a little. Adjusting the straps comes with a slight trade-off between cornering performance and straightline drag race hook-up. If you want to keep your inside ski lift down use a straight-rate spring or increase the front preload a little at a time or add roll resistance by adding longer links and/or a larger dia. sway bar. I don't mind a little lift now and then.
When you accelerate the sled wants to shift weight to the rear, I believe this is where the control rods come into play (I'm new to Yamaha). No gap at the bottom results in a rough ride too. Polaris uses coupling blocks on their EDGE skid to limit weight transfer under acceleration. More rear shift results in better hook-up, mostly for drag racing.
The FRA controls the overal ride of the sled. Again, based on the advice gained from this forum, I've found that setting the preload to near 0 and moving the shock to the hardest (lowest) point helped out a lot. I'm about 225 with my gear. This helps to make more use of the damping characteristics of the shock. This also deals with sag or set-in, and the compression and rebounding rate of the suspension. The idea is to have a 75/25 or 50/50 gap top/bottom, between top and bottom control rod spacers (white discs) when you sit on the sled in full gear. I'm quoting my dealer here.
As for the center shock, in my past experience this shock takes the initial impact on the skid, dampening the front arm. The mechanics of the design transfer that impact to the rear shock through the control rods, to further smooth it out. Increasing the preload helps to absorb the impact, not dramatically increase the ski preasure as your applying spring preasure against to the tension on the straps. Oh, and I think the pivot point of this shock affects the strap minimally anyway.
With the skid properly setup, ski preasure won't be under or overly aggressive and the suspension will be able to work through it's full cycle from impact to rebound for the next bump, without bottoming too easily or too early, or buck you off the seat. I've read somewhere that it's OK to have some bottoming about 5% or so? Also you'll have as much track to the ground as possible for hook-up.
There, I stuck my neck out for you. The nice thing about this forum is someone will correct you if your wrong :wink: and they haveAfterall, we learn from our mistakes.
XPG
OK Loki, Good question, and I'm going to stick my neck out here. Guys, Feel free to jump in and correct me if I'm wrong here
.(I've been corrected...so I changed it slightly
Bolded text)If I'm not mistaken the limitter straps play a role in the initial weight distribution (all of track vs. part of the track) When the straps are tightened it raises the front of the skid and puts more down-force on the rear of the track and the skis, resulting in more ski preasure, as you take weight distribution away from the middle portion of the sled. I have 1" or so left on my strap adjustment. This is key to working with your initial ski preasure, as an overly tight or stiff spring makes the sled too tippy and overly bouncy. I have mine set too stiff right now and I pay for it when I hit those mounds that are left behind by previous hill climbers. This has caused me to end up off-course and sometimes on my side (boy are these things heavy
) So if you want more initial ski preasure first check your bars, then tighten your straps a little. Adjusting the straps comes with a slight trade-off between cornering performance and straightline drag race hook-up. If you want to keep your inside ski lift down use a straight-rate spring or increase the front preload a little at a time or add roll resistance by adding longer links and/or a larger dia. sway bar. I don't mind a little lift now and then.When you accelerate the sled wants to shift weight to the rear, I believe this is where the control rods come into play (I'm new to Yamaha). No gap at the bottom results in a rough ride too. Polaris uses coupling blocks on their EDGE skid to limit weight transfer under acceleration. More rear shift results in better hook-up, mostly for drag racing.
The FRA controls the overal ride of the sled. Again, based on the advice gained from this forum, I've found that setting the preload to near 0 and moving the shock to the hardest (lowest) point helped out a lot. I'm about 225 with my gear. This helps to make more use of the damping characteristics of the shock. This also deals with sag or set-in, and the compression and rebounding rate of the suspension. The idea is to have a 75/25 or 50/50 gap top/bottom, between top and bottom control rod spacers (white discs) when you sit on the sled in full gear. I'm quoting my dealer here.
As for the center shock, in my past experience this shock takes the initial impact on the skid, dampening the front arm. The mechanics of the design transfer that impact to the rear shock through the control rods, to further smooth it out. Increasing the preload helps to absorb the impact, not dramatically increase the ski preasure as your applying spring preasure against to the tension on the straps. Oh, and I think the pivot point of this shock affects the strap minimally anyway.
With the skid properly setup, ski preasure won't be under or overly aggressive and the suspension will be able to work through it's full cycle from impact to rebound for the next bump, without bottoming too easily or too early, or buck you off the seat. I've read somewhere that it's OK to have some bottoming about 5% or so? Also you'll have as much track to the ground as possible for hook-up.
There, I stuck my neck out for you. The nice thing about this forum is someone will correct you if your wrong :wink: and they haveAfterall, we learn from our mistakes.
XPG
