skyking
Newbie
Just picked up a 2005 RS Vector this week. I'm the third owner. Has 3300 miles (3325 as I got in one 25 mile trail ride). Maintenance history from seller as follows:
Original owner did oil/filter at 750 miles (breakin) and another oil change at 2000 miles using a synthetic. Also replaced sliders at that time (guess he got tired of waiting for snow and just ran it on the grass or something) and Woody Dual Carbides. So the sliders and carbides now have 1300 miles on them. Carbs were cleaned by second owner beginning of this season. No other maintenance or repair issues as far as the seller knows of. He takes care of his sleds and this one looks clean under the hood except for the usual aluminum oxidation on the engine. No leaks or stains.
So far I have adjusted toe-in, adjusted chain tension, and added a harness on the battery for my BatteryMinder to plug into that dangles just outside the hood for a quick connect.
So that I have that 'warm and fuzzy feeling' I'm thinking of changing the oil and filter {again} and changing the chain case oil as well. Would rather start off knowing what I put in it rather than not knowing what someone else put in it.
Any suggestions or headzup as to other maintenance issues to be aware of with this particular model? I've already read about the leaky grease fittings.
What is 'transfer' adjustment on the front end to make it less tippy in turns? Is there an explanation of how to do this here somewhere? Where is the best place to buy an owners manual (didn't come with one)? Is the Service Manual necessary to do Level II maintenance and is it worth the cost ($70)?
Should the sliders have worn out at 2000 miles? Seems rather short lived to me and hope I don't have to replace them that often!
This is my third Yamaha - I have an '02 V-Star 1100 Classic that gets 53mpg and is bullet-proof. I had a 110hp 4-Stroke Outboard for two years but sold it. That was an awesome outboard motor!
Glad I found you guys, hopefully I can add ideas/tips/suggestions as I get up to speed on this beast. Very impressed with performance on my first ride - smooth ride, fairly quiet and smooth - not things you normally associate with a sled.
Original owner did oil/filter at 750 miles (breakin) and another oil change at 2000 miles using a synthetic. Also replaced sliders at that time (guess he got tired of waiting for snow and just ran it on the grass or something) and Woody Dual Carbides. So the sliders and carbides now have 1300 miles on them. Carbs were cleaned by second owner beginning of this season. No other maintenance or repair issues as far as the seller knows of. He takes care of his sleds and this one looks clean under the hood except for the usual aluminum oxidation on the engine. No leaks or stains.
So far I have adjusted toe-in, adjusted chain tension, and added a harness on the battery for my BatteryMinder to plug into that dangles just outside the hood for a quick connect.
So that I have that 'warm and fuzzy feeling' I'm thinking of changing the oil and filter {again} and changing the chain case oil as well. Would rather start off knowing what I put in it rather than not knowing what someone else put in it.
Any suggestions or headzup as to other maintenance issues to be aware of with this particular model? I've already read about the leaky grease fittings.
What is 'transfer' adjustment on the front end to make it less tippy in turns? Is there an explanation of how to do this here somewhere? Where is the best place to buy an owners manual (didn't come with one)? Is the Service Manual necessary to do Level II maintenance and is it worth the cost ($70)?
Should the sliders have worn out at 2000 miles? Seems rather short lived to me and hope I don't have to replace them that often!
This is my third Yamaha - I have an '02 V-Star 1100 Classic that gets 53mpg and is bullet-proof. I had a 110hp 4-Stroke Outboard for two years but sold it. That was an awesome outboard motor!
Glad I found you guys, hopefully I can add ideas/tips/suggestions as I get up to speed on this beast. Very impressed with performance on my first ride - smooth ride, fairly quiet and smooth - not things you normally associate with a sled.
Gone Blue
VIP Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2006
- Messages
- 1,598
- Age
- 61
- Location
- Howell, Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 08' Nytro RTX 40th Anniversary - Stretched
Welcome to TY and congrats on your new to sled. There are a lot of posts and opinions on here on how to improve the handling of these sleds. But the general consensus would be to:
1) Reduce the front spring pressure so the A arms are almost flat or horizontal. This will lower the CG.
2) Buy a Pioneer Motorsports 12 or 13mm front sway bar. Stock is 11 mm. Larger bar = stiffer
3) Reduce the weight transfer in the skid done with the two control rods on the skid. Will keep more weight up front on the skis.
4) Pull down (reduce) limiter strap one hole or more. Adds more ski pressure.
Doing all of the above changes or even part of them will make the sled corner flatter. However, these sleds will still really never corner like the old 2 smokes. You need to also adjust your riding style. If you go into a corner hot and chop the throttle near the corners apex, you will shift weight to the skis. Once the sled settles down, you can then power out of the corner. Give it try next time you are out.
Oh, and as for the shop or service manual, check eBay. I bought a CD copy on there of the factory service manual for something like $8.00.
Hope this helps, G.B.
1) Reduce the front spring pressure so the A arms are almost flat or horizontal. This will lower the CG.
2) Buy a Pioneer Motorsports 12 or 13mm front sway bar. Stock is 11 mm. Larger bar = stiffer
3) Reduce the weight transfer in the skid done with the two control rods on the skid. Will keep more weight up front on the skis.
4) Pull down (reduce) limiter strap one hole or more. Adds more ski pressure.
Doing all of the above changes or even part of them will make the sled corner flatter. However, these sleds will still really never corner like the old 2 smokes. You need to also adjust your riding style. If you go into a corner hot and chop the throttle near the corners apex, you will shift weight to the skis. Once the sled settles down, you can then power out of the corner. Give it try next time you are out.
Oh, and as for the shop or service manual, check eBay. I bought a CD copy on there of the factory service manual for something like $8.00.
Hope this helps, G.B.
deerhunter1
Extreme
I do a oil and filter no mater how many miles at the end of the year I also run all the gas out of the carbs .HYFAX wear out fast on this sled you just have to keep a eye on them get a cd on ebay 8 or 10 bucks .
STEVE
STEVE
skyking
Newbie
Overhaul The '05 Rearend
I plan on dropping the skid and replacing the 4 idler wheels with larger 5-1/4"/136mm versions with replaceable bearings. The Excell X-Wheels are for '06 and later because of bearing size, so I'll have to go with generic 136mm. Also plan to add the marginal snow wheel kit (suggestions as to where to place on skid rails?). Service manual shows two additional wheels inside the skids as 'options'. Has anyone added these? I would buy the OEM brackets and add oversized to match the others if these do any good.
Will replace the sliders so everything is new. Rear axle wheels look OK so will leave those unless you think I should just bite the bullet and do EVERYTHING. Track has studs but looks new except for a 1" crack/tear next to one of the studs on the inside. Do I ignore this or try to epoxy the crack closed? I don't think anything will seal this and keep it closed, but I've been known to be wrong {on more than one occasion}.
I don't want to get crazy with expensive upgrades so will keep the factory shocks. Anything else I have overlooked? Thanks. Don't know how folks keep their sleds going without coming here!
I plan on dropping the skid and replacing the 4 idler wheels with larger 5-1/4"/136mm versions with replaceable bearings. The Excell X-Wheels are for '06 and later because of bearing size, so I'll have to go with generic 136mm. Also plan to add the marginal snow wheel kit (suggestions as to where to place on skid rails?). Service manual shows two additional wheels inside the skids as 'options'. Has anyone added these? I would buy the OEM brackets and add oversized to match the others if these do any good.
Will replace the sliders so everything is new. Rear axle wheels look OK so will leave those unless you think I should just bite the bullet and do EVERYTHING. Track has studs but looks new except for a 1" crack/tear next to one of the studs on the inside. Do I ignore this or try to epoxy the crack closed? I don't think anything will seal this and keep it closed, but I've been known to be wrong {on more than one occasion}.
I don't want to get crazy with expensive upgrades so will keep the factory shocks. Anything else I have overlooked? Thanks. Don't know how folks keep their sleds going without coming here!
