• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

2006 Apex GT Help Separating The Exhaust pipes from Silencer Assembly

JP4256

Newbie
Joined
Nov 16, 2022
Messages
6
Age
54
Location
Appleton WI
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2006 Apex GT
2005 Rage
Greetings, Start by saying I should have just had the dealer take care of this. All started with Exhaust Doughnuts, and got worse from the start. At any rate, how is everyone getting the Exhaust pipes separated from the silencer assemble. 7500 miles on the sled and there is no movement at all. Any help is greatly appreciated. Separating number 13 from 21. I have new gaskets exhaust gaskets coming but need to get separated. Thanks in advance.

1702240399243.png
 

Attachments

  • 1702240062152.png
    1702240062152.png
    228.9 KB · Views: 14

Generally, as long as you loosen the #20 bolts on the #18 clampls but leave the #5 bolts tight on the #3 clamps and leave both #15 bolts securing the headers tight, you can pull #21 apart from #13 & #14 by standing in front of the muffler exhaust outlets and pulling. Heat around the header clamps (#18) also might help to separate them. Chances are, if you have any everything loose (ie. #5 and #15 bolts), nothing is really holding the headers in place to separate from the muffler.
 
Not sure exactly what you are planning on replacing, but if you want to separate #21 from #13 and #14, Here is my notes from having done a donuts and Y pipes change at 5200 miles.
26. The two Allen head bolts(#15) that hold the headers in place(under the rubber grommets) came loose with a #5 Allen head socket after, in my case, a good overnight of soaking after applying penetrant (threads were good and wet next day), and I hit the socket while on the bolt a few times with a hammer before removing them. I did not have to use heat. Note: Leave these bolts#15 in place if you want to pull the muffler#21 off the Y pipes#13, #14.
27. Undo two muffler to Y pipe clamp 12mm bolts after soaking from the top with penetrant and leaving overnight. Came loose no problem.
28. Muscle the muffler backwards by wiggling and rotating slightly with one hand, and, sticking your other arm down the hole of the skid and using your arm as a prybar to pry muffler towards the back of the sled. Pipes disconnected in about 2 minutes. My gaskets at this location were good.
Hope something from this helps.
 
Muscle the muffler backwards by wiggling and rotating slightly
It appears the OP wants to replace the gaskets (#17) and needs to separate the headers from the exhaust. What you stated above was also something I forgot to mention as wiggling and rotating certainly helped than just pulling straight backwards.
 
Greetings, Start by saying I should have just had the dealer take care of this. All started with Exhaust Doughnuts, and got worse from the start. At any rate, how is everyone getting the Exhaust pipes separated from the silencer assemble. 7500 miles on the sled and there is no movement at all. Any help is greatly appreciated. Separating number 13 from 21. I have new gaskets exhaust gaskets coming but need to get separated. Thanks in advance.

View attachment 174484
I’m in Wausau. Bring it over and I can take care of it. I’m pretty cheap.
 
make to replace the donuts with copper donuts or you will need to do this again in a few years, and if you damage the y-pipes then replace with stainless steal pipes which are cheaper and won't burn out when the donuts fail
 
If they are the original titanium pipes you may want to have a look at the flanges to determine if you need new headers or not. If you do, then use a grinder and destroy them to get them apart.
However, if they are still Ok, then take MrSled up on his offer, because these are very difficult sometimes.
 
make to replace the donuts with copper donuts or you will need to do this again in a few years, and if you damage the y-pipes then replace with stainless steal pipes which are cheaper and won't burn out when the donuts fail
They aren't stainless.
 
Method 1:
Remove the 4 muffler bolts. Remove the 2 mid pipe clamps. Wedge up the muffler so it will clear the rear of the bulkhead. Get a 24" chunk of 2x4 and place it on the front side of the muffler. Use the BFH from your tool box and hit the on the 2x4 until the pipes separate.

Method 2:
Get a case of beer and take up Mr Sled on his offer
 
Method 1:
Remove the 4 muffler bolts. Remove the 2 mid pipe clamps. Wedge up the muffler so it will clear the rear of the bulkhead. Get a 24" chunk of 2x4 and place it on the front side of the muffler. Use the BFH from your tool box and hit the on the 2x4 until the pipes separate.

Method 2:
Get a case of beer and take up Mr Sled on his offer
Method 2 always works.
 
Method 1:
Remove the 4 muffler bolts. Remove the 2 mid pipe clamps. Wedge up the muffler so it will clear the rear of the bulkhead. Get a 24" chunk of 2x4 and place it on the front side of the muffler. Use the BFH from your tool box and hit the on the 2x4 until the pipes separate.

Method 2:
Get a case of beer and take up Mr Sled on his offer
Once my big hammer was located, and the sacrificial block of wood, I tensioned the muffler with a ratchet strap and then proceeded to beat it like a racehorse. Once mad enough, it will come off!
 


Back
Top