4rcefed
Newbie
First off, hello to all, new guy here.
I have got a chance to buy an '06 Apex GT with just a tick over 4,000 miles on it. It has all new wheels in the skid, new hyfax, new 6" carbides & a fresh oil change. 144 studs, with a few broken off. No rips in the track, but a couple lugs are torn.
It appears to be in really great shape. A couple minor scuffs here n there, but nothing major.
It sounds like it may have a slight exhaust leak when cold, I'm assuming donuts?? I know the '06 handwarmers aren't the best from what I read. I asked the current owner if they have been updated, he didn't know.
Is there anything else I should look at or know?
Title/registration is free & clear.
Price is $4500 FIRM, I think this is a very good price.
I have got a chance to buy an '06 Apex GT with just a tick over 4,000 miles on it. It has all new wheels in the skid, new hyfax, new 6" carbides & a fresh oil change. 144 studs, with a few broken off. No rips in the track, but a couple lugs are torn.
It appears to be in really great shape. A couple minor scuffs here n there, but nothing major.
It sounds like it may have a slight exhaust leak when cold, I'm assuming donuts?? I know the '06 handwarmers aren't the best from what I read. I asked the current owner if they have been updated, he didn't know.
Is there anything else I should look at or know?
Title/registration is free & clear.
Price is $4500 FIRM, I think this is a very good price.
schmeg
Expert
I've had my 06 GT for 4 years now. It's been trouble free. It's a nice sled no doubt. Here are the things I would do to it, maybe wait till off season.
1. Stock shock spring rates were too soft, and damping too weak in the rear skid. Pull out the shock and send to Pineer or Hygear and get the re-valve and 5.5kg spring. A bit over 200 for this but money well spent. Re route the shock wire according to the new spec for it. I'll look for the diagram and send it to you.
2.Cut a slit 1/16 wide in the rubber chaincase dipstick grommet. You want to join both groove already molded into the grommet. It will help vent pressures in the case.
3. Lube both the jackshaft and drive shaft bearings on the clutch side. The phenolic seals pry off easily. Hand jam some low temp grease in there. (annually). If the bearings look shot, replace them.
4. Pull front end off floor and check a-arm to bulkhead bushings for excessive play. Replace with oilite bushings from Allen Ulmer (ulmerracing.com) I have some I can sell if he is out.
5. Check and adjust drive chain. Rotate secondary clutch counterclockwise a quarter turn, set brake, loosen jam nut, and turn adjuster bolt until "lightly" finger tight, then back off a quarter turn. While you are at it, drain and replace chaincase lube. I use Klotz.
6. Shim the rubber bumpers under the ski spindles with some sort of plastic material 1/8th inch thick on the aft edge of the rubber bumper. It takes most of the darting out. avoid this procedure if the sled already has aftermarket ski's.
7. Track is on borrowed time, but not nesessary to replace yet, but if you end up pulling the skid to pull shock (which isn't totally nesessary)and or you have to replace the driveshaft bearing again, not totally nessesary, just makes it easier,,,,it would be a good time to replace the track, you are right there. This would also give you an opportunity to inspect the gears and chain in the chaincase for wear. A few good choices on tracks out there, do a search on the subject. If I had to do it again, I would put a one inch Predator under there and put the nails to it. That track adds speed and traction.
8. Do the sublead mod to the handlebar warmers "rockerdan" has a post on. It really works and I've been 4 years and over 6000 miles on the mod. Its reliable, just don't go over 4 bars on the heat.
These are the high points on the sled. If you spend some time on it this off season, it will pay off later and make a good sled for you. Jay
1. Stock shock spring rates were too soft, and damping too weak in the rear skid. Pull out the shock and send to Pineer or Hygear and get the re-valve and 5.5kg spring. A bit over 200 for this but money well spent. Re route the shock wire according to the new spec for it. I'll look for the diagram and send it to you.
2.Cut a slit 1/16 wide in the rubber chaincase dipstick grommet. You want to join both groove already molded into the grommet. It will help vent pressures in the case.
3. Lube both the jackshaft and drive shaft bearings on the clutch side. The phenolic seals pry off easily. Hand jam some low temp grease in there. (annually). If the bearings look shot, replace them.
4. Pull front end off floor and check a-arm to bulkhead bushings for excessive play. Replace with oilite bushings from Allen Ulmer (ulmerracing.com) I have some I can sell if he is out.
5. Check and adjust drive chain. Rotate secondary clutch counterclockwise a quarter turn, set brake, loosen jam nut, and turn adjuster bolt until "lightly" finger tight, then back off a quarter turn. While you are at it, drain and replace chaincase lube. I use Klotz.
6. Shim the rubber bumpers under the ski spindles with some sort of plastic material 1/8th inch thick on the aft edge of the rubber bumper. It takes most of the darting out. avoid this procedure if the sled already has aftermarket ski's.
7. Track is on borrowed time, but not nesessary to replace yet, but if you end up pulling the skid to pull shock (which isn't totally nesessary)and or you have to replace the driveshaft bearing again, not totally nessesary, just makes it easier,,,,it would be a good time to replace the track, you are right there. This would also give you an opportunity to inspect the gears and chain in the chaincase for wear. A few good choices on tracks out there, do a search on the subject. If I had to do it again, I would put a one inch Predator under there and put the nails to it. That track adds speed and traction.
8. Do the sublead mod to the handlebar warmers "rockerdan" has a post on. It really works and I've been 4 years and over 6000 miles on the mod. Its reliable, just don't go over 4 bars on the heat.
These are the high points on the sled. If you spend some time on it this off season, it will pay off later and make a good sled for you. Jay
schmeg
Expert
Yes, that is a good price if it's not beat. The are going for 5500-6000 around here. I just sold an 06 ER for 5500. You can use the money saved for maint. and upgrades.
Sounds like a good deal to me. Even if you have to replace the track you've still got less than 5k into it.
breakinbarrs
Expert
Definitely a good price. my friend bought an 06 attack late last feb for 4500.00 with 2400 miles. If you look elsewhere on this site, ignoring donuts will lead to y pipe problems. I would try to negotiate donut fix off price. If he doesn't budge buy it anyway. Once the 2011 start selling it will probably be worth more than you payed for it next year. Just My opinion.
schmeg
Expert
Yes, I forgot to mention, the donuts are leaking. 30 bucks to fix it yourself if the Y pipes are good. 400 per Y pipe if they are cracked. Less for aftermarket stainless. It's an easy job if you are handy with basic tools, as is most of the chores on this sled. Some will make the sled out as a labor intensive sled, and it is to some degree, but if you stay on top of the maintainance as most sleds, it's actually more reliable than most others. I also forgot to mention earlierr, some have had cracking issues with the front arm on the skid. A poster by the name "Welteracer" has a business that has a fix for the front arm, along with powdercoating. http://halfbakedcoatings.com/default.aspx
MADDOG24
Expert
Buy it! I think that sled is worth closer to $6000.00 if you consider what the new ones cost.
frozesolid
Extreme
Scoop it up!
I bought mine in November '09 for $6000 with 2300 miles on it, bone stock. Dang thing looked like it was hardly ridden, tho.
Still seems like an OK deal, even to this day.
I bought mine in November '09 for $6000 with 2300 miles on it, bone stock. Dang thing looked like it was hardly ridden, tho.
Still seems like an OK deal, even to this day.
4rcefed
Newbie
Thanks alot guys!!!
I knew it booked alot higher than $4500, but book price is also what a dealer "should" be charging, meaning full retail price.
I think I'll be buying it tomorrow.
I knew it booked alot higher than $4500, but book price is also what a dealer "should" be charging, meaning full retail price.
I think I'll be buying it tomorrow.
cat hunter
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
BUY IT!!! I have the same machine and it has 10,000 miles on it and runs better than new!!! Great sled and great price!!! 
kinger
VIP Member
What kind of a rider are you? THe GT seat is very soft and you actually sink in it over a day of riding and for me at 6'1" it was no good, I swapped for a RTX seat which has firmer foam but not hard.
Front shocks rule, they are nice but as mentioned prepare to replace the stock bushings.
Exhaust is probably cracked you need to remove the fuel tank, rear suspension, etc, to get at the bolts its a big job to get her out good off season project.
The bar risor was too short for me as well so I added the mountain risor myself. I could actually use another 1-2" on top of that.
Other then that its a good deal!
Front shocks rule, they are nice but as mentioned prepare to replace the stock bushings.
Exhaust is probably cracked you need to remove the fuel tank, rear suspension, etc, to get at the bolts its a big job to get her out good off season project.
The bar risor was too short for me as well so I added the mountain risor myself. I could actually use another 1-2" on top of that.
Other then that its a good deal!
cat hunter
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Not very big job for the donuts if you catch it before it does damage to the pipes!!!
