2007 Apex/Attak-HIGH idle issue

NY AttakGT

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I have an '07 Attak (fuel injected) that has developed a high idle issue. Engine wise, everything is bone-stock and have had 12,000 plus trouble-free miles. I have no trouble codes coming up on dash. When I start the sled up it starts at 2k RPM and slowly climbs as the sled warms up until I reach 4.5-5k and I shut it down. I have gone through IAC valve (idle air control valve) diassembled/cleaned, took valve out of return line to gas tank (working properly) and some other stuff. Baffled by this one. Would a bad TPS cause high idle? Dont think it would and it TPS was bad would think it would throw a code. How about a bad ECU? I am in process of chasing the ECU harness to make sure there are no chaffed wires. Checking all the vac lines to make sure nothing is cracked or chaffed. Any ideas?
 
Vacuum leak maybe? I doubt it's electrical, I'd be checking hoses and throttle body boot's, etc.
Are the throttle plates even and closing all the way?
 
Get a new mechanic, just sayin!
Your Post is worthless, Smart@$&. He is the mechanic and asking for help. If you have no relevant advice then don't bother responding. @ NY AttackGT, per our earlier conversation clean out and lube the IAC valve, Check throttle bodies. Also with over 12,000 miles the valve timing may be off causing this rough/high idle til it running temp is reached. Short term fix for the valve timing is to try a little Marvel Mystery Oil or SeaFoam at every fill up to help with sticky valves thru the warm up stage. But if you plan on keeping the sled then I would pull the head and re-calibrate the values in the off season..

Im courious to know if anyone else with high mileage have had this problem and what they did to fix the issue...
Thanks, from a long time TY member..
 
TT just an FYI, he is a close personal friend of mine and i was just trying to be funny. No clue, don't bother responding. Lighten up.
 
Found this. There is a pressure sensor mounted on the ECU bracket which looks like it should have a vac or air line going to it but it does not. Can anyone confirm it this nipple is supposed to be open or connected to something. Its part #9 in the fiche
 

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Actually that is correct, open to air... It is the barometric sensor for atmospheric pressure. It is the same part number sensor as the MAP sensor.
 
Actually that is correct, open to air... It is the barometric sensor for atmospheric pressure. It is the same part number sensor as the MAP sensor.
DANG!!!! Though I had it. But saw no way anything would have got disconnected from it, nor was there anything hanging loose to connect to it.
Search continues.
 
For an engine to idle at 4500 rpm, it needs a good amount of air. Look for a source of that excessive air. I'm leaning (no pun intended) towards the IAC assembly is somehow involved. The reason I say that is the Apex IAC works sort of like a thermostat, but opposite. As the coolant gets warmer the wax expands and it is supposed to close off. Sounds like it's staying open. You could plug off the inlet tube that feeds air from the airbox, see if that drops the RPM down... if so, start there.
 
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Your Post is worthless, Smart@$&. He is the mechanic and asking for help. If you have no relevant advice then don't bother responding. @ NY AttackGT, per our earlier conversation clean out and lube the IAC valve, Check throttle bodies. Also with over 12,000 miles the valve timing may be off causing this rough/high idle til it running temp is reached. Short term fix for the valve timing is to try a little Marvel Mystery Oil or SeaFoam at every fill up to help with sticky valves thru the warm up stage. But if you plan on keeping the sled then I would pull the head and re-calibrate the values in the off season..

Im courious to know if anyone else with high mileage have had this problem and what they did to fix the issue...
Thanks, from a long time TY member..
Thanks TurboTime. Will try some Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel. Who knows. Doesnt seem like a sticking valve or valves out of synch though. I am thinking vacuum leak, bad TPS (which doesn't make sense to cause this condition and no code being thrown), bad ECU or maybe a corroded connection in ECU harness. Time to start checking vac lines and un-taping harnesses!
 
For an engine to idle at 4500 rpm, it needs a good amount of air. Look for a source of that excessive air. I'm leaning (no pun intended) towards the IAC assembly is somehow involved. The reason I say that is the Apex IAC works sort of like a thermostat, but opposite. As the coolant gets warmer the wax expands and it is supposed to close off. Sounds like it's opening. You could plug off the inlet tube that feeds air from the airbox, see if that drops the RPM down... if so, start there.
Dont quite understand the functionality of the IAC valve but I did totally disassemble, clean and blew it out. Was pretty clean as was though. Had 4 air lines (which I could blow through any one of them) going into bottom and two coolant lines on mag side. Like I said, it starts at 2k...and gradually increases RPM's as sled warms up. This is without any throttle input on my part.
 
Almost sounds like the temp sensor in working in reverse telling the ecu to dump more fuel as it gets warmer instead of leaning out as the temps rises.:dunno:
 
Almost sounds like the temp sensor in working in reverse telling the ecu to dump more fuel as it gets warmer instead of leaning out as the temps rises.:dunno:
Temp sensor as in mounted in the pto side of Airbox with 2 or 3 pin harness going to it? How can i function test it?
 
The temp sensor I am thinking about is on the thermostat housing on the mag side.
Sorry , don't know what the values should be in ohms.
 
The temp sensor I am thinking about is on the thermostat housing on the mag side.
Sorry , don't know what the values should be in ohms.
Thanks. I thought maybe you meant coolant temp sensor afterward. There is also an air temp sensor mounted in the side of the airbox (pto side). Pulled the throttle bodies off and IAC valve(again) and will start checking for vacuum leaks. Nothing obvious so far though.

Anybody know functionality of the coolant side of the IAC valve? Is coolant just supposed to "flow" through? Does coolant only flow through when a certain coolant temperature or coolant pressure is achieved? Reason I ask, there are two coolant nipples (in and out, I supposed) and I cannot blow through either one. When coolant reaches a certain temp or pressure, does the coolant path open up?
 

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