yamadooski
Extreme
I just bought one and don't know the first thing about setting up the suspesion. I've got an Apex GT so I know the rear shock is adjustable on the fly but the fronts and other settings are unknown to me for the long track. I weight about 225 without gear, ride fairly agressively on the trails. Any help with the clickers on the front and any rear end adjustments would be apprciated.
Also, the sled has a Fix Power Sports clutch kit on it which I know nothing about. I've never messed with the clutches on any of my numerous Yammies. I understand it takes higher revs to engage but goes like hell on the top end. fI'm going to call them today to get more info but if I decide I don't like it what's involved in setting up back to factory specs?
Thanks for any input
Also, the sled has a Fix Power Sports clutch kit on it which I know nothing about. I've never messed with the clutches on any of my numerous Yammies. I understand it takes higher revs to engage but goes like hell on the top end. fI'm going to call them today to get more info but if I decide I don't like it what's involved in setting up back to factory specs?
Thanks for any input
BigMac
Expert
Yeh, I was baffled too. It ain't like the old days. There are multiple adjustments that will accomodate multiple variable. Very flexible, but very complicated.
First thing you have to do is set the rear shock preload. The spring should compress between 40-45 mm between unweighted, and when you sit on it at your riding weight (has to be measured at the spring, takes two people). It's explained in the owner's manual. From there it's a matter of multiple adjustments to suit your riding style. There's info on the technical pages here on TY. On my unstudded Apex, I loosened the front shock springs until they rattled, then tightened back one turn. I haven't done anything with the compression or rebound damping on the front, nor rebound on the rear. I ride with rear compression damping at about 3 bars until the moguls get a little bigger, at which point I add compression damping as necessary to keep from too much rear action, or if I bottom occasionally.
A lot of it will also depend on your front skis or their carbides. Front spring preload, as well as front limiter strap, will affect ski pressure. So aggressive skis or carbides might make for hard steering if ski pressure is too high. I didn't have to do anything with the limiter strap to make my Powderhounds perform the way I wanted, but with low front preload and only 4 inches of carbide, I do push a little in corners with lots of loose snow. That was noticable for me in snowy Montana recently, but here at home on hard pack the skis bite real well and I don't think I'd want any more ski pressure. If pushing had continued to be a problem, I'd bring the front limiter strap down a notch.
Note that at 220+gear, you may end up exceeding the capacity of your stock rear spring. If you can't get the preload in its proper range (40-45mm without shortening the travel outside its limits), you may need to get a stiffer spring (so-called "BigBoy spring).
Once you get the rear preload set right, here's the adjustment matrix (from TY's Technical Pages):
First thing you have to do is set the rear shock preload. The spring should compress between 40-45 mm between unweighted, and when you sit on it at your riding weight (has to be measured at the spring, takes two people). It's explained in the owner's manual. From there it's a matter of multiple adjustments to suit your riding style. There's info on the technical pages here on TY. On my unstudded Apex, I loosened the front shock springs until they rattled, then tightened back one turn. I haven't done anything with the compression or rebound damping on the front, nor rebound on the rear. I ride with rear compression damping at about 3 bars until the moguls get a little bigger, at which point I add compression damping as necessary to keep from too much rear action, or if I bottom occasionally.
A lot of it will also depend on your front skis or their carbides. Front spring preload, as well as front limiter strap, will affect ski pressure. So aggressive skis or carbides might make for hard steering if ski pressure is too high. I didn't have to do anything with the limiter strap to make my Powderhounds perform the way I wanted, but with low front preload and only 4 inches of carbide, I do push a little in corners with lots of loose snow. That was noticable for me in snowy Montana recently, but here at home on hard pack the skis bite real well and I don't think I'd want any more ski pressure. If pushing had continued to be a problem, I'd bring the front limiter strap down a notch.
Note that at 220+gear, you may end up exceeding the capacity of your stock rear spring. If you can't get the preload in its proper range (40-45mm without shortening the travel outside its limits), you may need to get a stiffer spring (so-called "BigBoy spring).
Once you get the rear preload set right, here's the adjustment matrix (from TY's Technical Pages):
nAVEL
Veteran
Great response BigMac - thanks! This helpmed me too (and I didn't know that matrix existed).
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
I go 250# w/gear and went to the 6.5 kg/mm or one step down from the 7.1 kg/mm, I also had Pioneer revalve the shock a little stiffer, to increase the range of the adjuster. Before I could practically ride all-day with it cranked, and it would still bottom rather harshly on moderate sized bumps. Now, I use less sag, and run 3-4 bars in moderate stuff. It isn't a super plush ride, by any means, but it works well when I pull the trigger to shoot over the crap.
With the new valving I also use less rebound damping. My front shocks are backed off about 2 - 2-1/2 turns from stock, could probably go a little more. When the front end starts jiggling real bad, I back off the comp. If it's too bouncy, I add rebound, or drop comp. generally the latter, still working on it but dropping the pre-load reduced the ski lift.
With the new valving I also use less rebound damping. My front shocks are backed off about 2 - 2-1/2 turns from stock, could probably go a little more. When the front end starts jiggling real bad, I back off the comp. If it's too bouncy, I add rebound, or drop comp. generally the latter, still working on it but dropping the pre-load reduced the ski lift.
