2007 Phazer Track Replacement

[newbb]

Are there any good step by step write-ups on how to replace a track on a 2007 phazer?

I recall seeing one like a month ago but now I cannot see to find it with the search.

 

[soldi]

1 - remove bolts holding skid (4) (they spin so you must "hold" them on the oposit side
2 - release spring tension (you could do this as nr 1)
3 - remove skid, migt help to "compress" it with the use of some rope or straps. Laying dow with feet on rear of track and head towards the front of the sled helps, yank and pull and lift the track, use both arms and both legs if your doing it by yourself..

4- remove chain case
5- remove chain (press the tenssioner and lift of)
6- remove (on oposite site) speed sensor and such. bearing is held on with a screw that you might only reach avfer you push the drivshaft out a bit so you might have to release other side first))
7 - remove driveshaft
8 - remove track

9 - reaseble

 

[3-UP]

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=105636

 

[tparsons]

1 - remove bolts holding skid (4) (they spin so you must "hold" them on the oposit side
2 - release spring tension (you could do this as nr 1)
3 - remove skid, migt help to "compress" it with the use of some rope or straps. Laying dow with feet on rear of track and head towards the front of the sled helps, yank and pull and lift the track, use both arms and both legs if your doing it by yourself..

Definitely set the springs to soft and use a ratchet strap to compress the suspension. I finally figured that out on my 3rd time taking the skid in/out. Its a huge help.

 

[newbb]

Are there any special tools needed?? Will any parts need to be replaced or is everything reusable?

Thanks

 

[yamahas]

You can also completly remove pressure off the springs by turning the block holding the long arm of the spring at the wheels. Rotate it foreward.

 

[yamahas]

As long as the seals don't have visible damage and are still soft chances are you can reuse them. I did. Make sure they are clean. If you feel better replacing them from memory there is an oil seal on the driveshaft, oring on the brake and the seal around the chaincase.

I would change the driveshaft bearing while its easy.

 

[biffdotorg]

1 - remove bolts holding skid (4) (they spin so you must "hold" them on the oposit side

I am removing my skid right now for maintenance and hyfax and those two front bolts are a pain in the #*$&@!

you can only grab the opposite side of the rear bolts. Unless you use a high speed socket driver or impact wrench, it is next to impossible to remove the front bolts. You will turn them, but the inside rod will just rotate.

I am following the tactic of loosing one side, and then retightening it to allow the other side to be broke loose. I have both loose but am only able to remove one of them. GRRRRR!

Good luck!

 

[cannondale27]

Or use a impact to remove them.

 

[biffdotorg]

I got it last night. I used the method of loosening one, retighten, then loosen the other. Got them out.

It's good to get that skid out at least once a year. So much easier to inspect, lube and hyfax. This is the first set of hyfax that I have burned almost 100% even from tip to tip. One was so thin, that I could see light through it, but it had not burned through yet. It buckled when I tried to pound it off!

 

[soldi]

I got it last night. I used the method of loosening one, retighten, then loosen the other. Got them out.
!

This is the way to do it if you don't have an impact, first break one loose, tighten and break other side lose and then go back and forth and get them out.. Sometimes it will be easy sometimes the bolt work against you...

 

[biffdotorg]

So I got the skid put back in last night, by myself! Here is a quick tip, use ratchet straps to compress the skid. You will appreciate how much easier it is to get in and aligned with the bolt holes.

A 4x4 and a pry bar also help with the hole alignment too. All the little tricks of working alone while hoping something doesn't let go while I have two arms/hands inside the skid!

Good luck!