2008 GT Code 12

[crazycanuck]

Hi all,

Sled: 2008 GT 40th anniversary 13,500km well maintained

I realize this is a common topic and I think I've read all of the existing threads... wanted to ask for advice before I put more money in. I had my Yamaha dealer replace just the sensor vs. the entire stator and that appeared to work (with some extra wiring). However, on Sunday in the middle of nowhere the sled stalled after idling for a few minutes. It restarted, but then died on the trail a few minutes later with, you guessed it, code 12. What a pita. The problem originally appeared after winter storage this season - sled wouldn't start with code 12 (was fine at the end of last season). Used the kimpex sensor and with some wiring work seemed fine. For ~150km.

Before I go off and buy a much more expensive new stator in round 2 of this, is something else wrong that I should point my dealer at checking?

Edit: this is what I had installed: https://www.kimpex.com/en-ca/produc...s/kimpex-hd-pulsar-coil-fits-yamaha-01-445-20

Edit#2:

Update: the failure was at the wiring connection point outside the grommet where the aftermarket sensor wiring connects into the Yamaha wiring harness. One of the two wires 'retracted' from the shielding and was no longer connected. The shielding was still there, but the wire was not. The mechanic says he tested the connection... there is no explanation for where the 2" of wire went without disassembling the stator. Note that I didn't see this myself, so my information here is second hand via the Yamaha mechanic. How does this happen? Where did the wire go? Nothing pulls on the wire, and it is only subjected to heat. Though the wire does sit in oil... the plastic shielding on the wire is not typical of Yamaha wiring and may not be at the gauge and quality required? Guessing.

It is certainly possible to reconnect the wires (again), but without understanding what is going on here, I am opting to put in the OEM stator.

For anyone going the aftermarket sensor path, be really sure those wires are properly connected.

ffs this is getting expensive.

Thx all.

 

[RobX-1]

Although it wasn't a bad job to replace the stator, the reason I opted to replace the entire stator assy with OEM vs just the pickup sensor when I got the code 12 on my 08 Apex was the thought of having to repair it again. Not sure of the Kimpex one and how long they last but have read others have success with the RM Stator pickup coil.

For me, I knew I was going to keep mime so opted to replace the complete stator and not have to deal with splicing in the sensor. You could always opt to just replace the pickup sensor again but go with the RM Stator one if wanting to keep cost down. I can't recall the exact milage I had on mine when dealing with the code 12, but it was probably 8000-9000 miles ago and it now has over 20,000 miles and not one issue with the stator or that dreaded code 12.

 

[74Nitro]

Although it wasn't a bad job to replace the stator, the reason I opted to replace the entire stator assy with OEM vs just the pickup sensor when I got the code 12 on my 08 Apex was the thought of having to repair it again. Not sure of the Kimpex one and how long they last but have read others have success with the RM Stator pickup coil.

For me, I knew I was going to keep mime so opted to replace the complete stator and not have to deal with splicing in the sensor. You could always opt to just replace the pickup sensor again but go with the RM Stator one if wanting to keep cost down. I can't recall the exact milage I had on mine when dealing with the code 12, but it was probably 8000-9000 miles ago and it now has over 20,000 miles and not one issue with the stator or that dreaded code 12.

The kimpex may in fact be an RM stator coil. I know sometimes they use their stuff.
Personally, I'm not a fan of RM stator parts.

 

[Stubbs]

Not sure on the Kimpex unit but most of the RM Stator replacements needed to be tweaked a little out of the box to get the proper sensor to flywheel clearance spec.

 

[74Nitro]

Hi all,

Sled: 2008 GT 40th anniversary 13,500km well maintained

I realize this is a common topic and I think I've read all of the existing threads... wanted to ask for advice before I put more money in. I had my Yamaha dealer replace just the sensor vs. the entire stator and that appeared to work (with some extra wiring). However, on Sunday in the middle of nowhere the sled stalled after idling for a few minutes. It restarted, but then died on the trail a few minutes later with, you guessed it, code 12. What a pita. The problem originally appeared after winter storage this season - sled wouldn't start with code 12 (was fine at the end of last season). Used the kimpex sensor and with some wiring work seemed fine. For ~150km.

Before I go off and buy a much more expensive new stator in round 2 of this, is something else wrong that I should point my dealer at checking?

ffs this is getting expensive.

Thx all.

Another question is was the sensor installed properly with good quality soder, as well as proper wire routing that it didn't come into contact with the flywheel.
Was loctite used on the bolts etc.

 

[74Nitro]

There's a place in Stratford called MC distributing, that's where I get my pickup coils.

 

[crazycanuck]

Although it wasn't a bad job to replace the stator, the reason I opted to replace the entire stator assy with OEM vs just the pickup sensor when I got the code 12 on my 08 Apex was the thought of having to repair it again. Not sure of the Kimpex one and how long they last but have read others have success with the RM Stator pickup coil.

For me, I knew I was going to keep mime so opted to replace the complete stator and not have to deal with splicing in the sensor. You could always opt to just replace the pickup sensor again but go with the RM Stator one if wanting to keep cost down. I can't recall the exact milage I had on mine when dealing with the code 12, but it was probably 8000-9000 miles ago and it now has over 20,000 miles and not one issue with the stator or that dreaded code 12.

Yes... it was in the back of my head. Your plan is better. I am not going to attempt the same approach and will properly go OEM stator vs. the RM one, just because I don't want to do this a third time.

 

[crazycanuck]

Not sure on the Kimpex unit but most of the RM Stator replacements needed to be tweaked a little out of the box to get the proper sensor to flywheel clearance spec.

And perhaps a bump or something moved the sensor? It was working, and then it was not.

 

[crazycanuck]

Another question is was the sensor installed properly with good quality soder, as well as proper wire routing that it didn't come into contact with the flywheel.
Was loctite used on the bolts etc.

I didn't inspect the work but the tech did say he did it carefully, shrunk wrapped the wiring etc. Until he takes it apart, I won't know if the sensor went or if something else happened. Perhaps there is a reason Yamaha doesn't sell this part separately.

 

[74Nitro]

I didn't inspect the work but the tech did say he did it carefully, shrunk wrapped the wiring etc. Until he takes it apart, I won't know if the sensor went or if something else happened. Perhaps there is a reason Yamaha doesn't sell this part separately.

It feeds through the same grommet as the stator wires is maybe why. Could also be that they can profit more by selling it all.

 

[crazycanuck]

Update: the failure was at the wiring connection point outside the grommet where the aftermarket sensor wiring connects into the Yamaha wiring harness. One of the two wires 'retracted' from the shielding and was no longer connected. The shielding was still there, but the wire was not. The mechanic says he tested the connection... there is no explanation for where the 2" of wire went without disassembling the stator. Note that I didn't see this myself, so my information here is second hand via the Yamaha mechanic. How does this happen? Where did the wire go? Nothing pulls on the wire, and it is only subjected to heat. Though the wire does sit in oil... the plastic shielding on the wire is not typical of Yamaha wiring and may not be at the gauge and quality required? Guessing.

It is certainly possible to reconnect the wires (again), but without understanding what is going on here, I am opting to put in the OEM stator.

For anyone going the aftermarket sensor path, be really sure those wires are properly connected.

 

[crazycanuck]

Another question is was the sensor installed properly with good quality soder, as well as proper wire routing that it didn't come into contact with the flywheel.
Was loctite used on the bolts etc.

I think we know the answer to this question is now 'no'. No soder was used. Connector that was then heat shrinked wrapped.