bkhett
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2010
- Messages
- 13
my 2008 nytro rtx was stalling out for no apparent reason and then would start right back up. wasnt throwing a code. mechanic said it was bad gas. 200 miles later. problem kept getting worse. turns out, a wire harness had rubbed against the motor mount where a piece of frame was stiking up, and rubbed the wires bare! not where yamaha had put out a service bulletin either. problem solved, but now my left grip heater isnt working. any chance these two problems could be related?
nitrojb
Extreme
Just got my 09 fixed under warranty same problem one of the wires that got damaged was hand warmer posibly shorted out the element or you missed fixing that wire.
stock
Pro
Were did it rub so we can keep a look out on our sleds ?
canoehead
TY 4 Stroke God
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- 2014 XF9000, 2016 Viper XTX
stephenpen
Expert
It sounds like his issue is rubbing somewhere else.
tedwardo123
Newbie
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2011
- Messages
- 1
On my 2008 Nytro MTX, the symptom was ignitiion fuse blowing out (20A). It runs for a while then blows.
The problem is caused by a casting "bud" that sticks out of the engine casing just behind the primary clutch.
Steps to fix:
1. Remove the casting bung/bud with a screwdriver/hammer OR say off with a hack-saw blade.
2. Pull wire harness back towards you and open up to expose frayed wires. Mine had 2 frayed wires the red and blue. Which wires fray depend on luck/circumstance.
NOTE: On my sled I had to disconnect the Relay holder (2 plastic plungers to pop/remove) + disconnect the ECM which is 2 bolts. Once removed there was enough play to pull the wiring harness out. I removed 8" of the black stuff covering the wires, taped the frayed wires, and retaped the whole deal.
Once done use a couple zip-strips to hold the harness up and away from your engine case.
The problem is caused by a casting "bud" that sticks out of the engine casing just behind the primary clutch.
Steps to fix:
1. Remove the casting bung/bud with a screwdriver/hammer OR say off with a hack-saw blade.
2. Pull wire harness back towards you and open up to expose frayed wires. Mine had 2 frayed wires the red and blue. Which wires fray depend on luck/circumstance.
NOTE: On my sled I had to disconnect the Relay holder (2 plastic plungers to pop/remove) + disconnect the ECM which is 2 bolts. Once removed there was enough play to pull the wiring harness out. I removed 8" of the black stuff covering the wires, taped the frayed wires, and retaped the whole deal.
Once done use a couple zip-strips to hold the harness up and away from your engine case.
GT03235
Expert
just another isue to add to the growing list lol 
Nainduck
Newbie
Speedometer Problem
I just checked my sled and that casting piece is actually pushed right through into the wiring harness and has at least two wires grounding out (all I can see at the moment). I also had a section of the wiring harness rubbed bare on a section of frame above the secondary. I will try to get some pics when I go back to fix these issues. My problem was that my speedometer and Tach were jumping all over the place and I kept blowing a 3A fuse for some reason. I am hoping that this was the source of my problems. If not, I may have to burn it......
I just checked my sled and that casting piece is actually pushed right through into the wiring harness and has at least two wires grounding out (all I can see at the moment). I also had a section of the wiring harness rubbed bare on a section of frame above the secondary. I will try to get some pics when I go back to fix these issues. My problem was that my speedometer and Tach were jumping all over the place and I kept blowing a 3A fuse for some reason. I am hoping that this was the source of my problems. If not, I may have to burn it......
Old Thumper
Pro
Actually, it's not a "casting bud". That same mount piece is used on both RH & LH front motor mounts. The ground wire from the battery attaches to the mount piece on the RH side. That nub stops the ground connection from turning when the bolt is tightened.
On the left side the only thing the nub does is cause flakey electrical problems. On mine it caused the temp light to blink on and off constantly. They just use the same piece on both sides to avoid creating another part number to manufacture and stock. You can cut the nub off with a hacksaw blade and file it smooth with the mount in place.
On the left side the only thing the nub does is cause flakey electrical problems. On mine it caused the temp light to blink on and off constantly. They just use the same piece on both sides to avoid creating another part number to manufacture and stock. You can cut the nub off with a hacksaw blade and file it smooth with the mount in place.
canoehead
TY 4 Stroke God
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Old thread
Once again guys this is an old issue. Refer to this thread for further info..
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
Once again guys this is an old issue. Refer to this thread for further info..
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
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