2010 Vector ltx gt first ride.

[theCATman]

how fast is it compared to a nytro or apex?

Read my last post about an Apex.

Coming fresh off an FX Nytro, I don't hardly feel any difference in power. A slight difference way up top.

But, my FX Nytro would kill my neighbors Apex (6-8 lengths) 'till 85 MPH and then he would start catching me, then go by after 95 MPH. Knowing this, I'm 99.99% positive an FX Nytro will smoke the Vector outa the hole too.

 

[Banks93]

how fast is it compared to a nytro or apex?

It will hold with the Apex until about 80-85 mph and then the Apex will start to walk away. I would say it is pretty close to the Nytro.

If you want the fastest lake sled the Apex is the sled you want, but if you want the best trail riding sled I would go with the new 2010 Vector GT LTX.

The youtube videos that yamaha did last year are pretty accurate.

 

[journeyman]

Well we had a couple quick drags against the new Vector GT with our Vipers. Both times he would hang even up to mid top end and then the Vipers would pull away on top. The Vector has a little over 300 miles and is bone stock. We'll see if he gets stronger as it loosens up. Definitely stronger than his old carbed Vector.

 

[salestim]

Hello cat - I have an 09 Vector GT purchased new this year. Only one ride so far it it handled pretty good without any adjustments except 8" Bergstrums. Did have a little inside ski lift. Would like to adjust to your specs and then tune from there. Did you think your specs are good for an 09?

 

[theCATman]

Hello cat - I have an 09 Vector GT purchased new this year. Only one ride so far it it handled pretty good without any adjustments except 8" Bergstrums. Did have a little inside ski lift. Would like to adjust to your specs and then tune from there. Did you think your specs are good for an 09?

Yep, setup is good for any Vector GT in the Deltabox II chassis, '08-present.

 

[Irv]

Depending on everyone's given weight & trail conditions more compression may be needed on the remote dial on the tunnel. PLEASE realize this.

4. Rear Mono-Shock pre-load-- Leave it in the stock cam notch. This should be the middle notch.


REMINDER!! the rear setting can & will have to change some depending on your weight & trail conditions. This also will change the feel of the compression too.


This setup comes from an ex cross country racer who has forgotten more about setting up suspensions than most of us will ever know.

On a side note also. As we all know the stock Yamaha skis suck major balls. Dually runners in the 6-10" range are highly recommended. As are Snow-Trackers if you choose that route.

Catman, just curious on number 4?

For me, leaving the setting in the stock middle notch is not enough as my sag is way over the recomended limit of 40-45mm.

Currently I have it at the highest cam notch and it still sags too much, going to have to change clip to middle setting to get the proper sag.

Just curious on your thoughts, I only about 200Lbs fully geared up.

The rest of the settings work great, just have to dial in my sag and hopefully the ride will get better?

 

[theCATman]

How many miles are on your sled? Could be possible that the shock is getting weak. But unless there is 4000+ of hard ridden miles, I can't see a weak shock.

At 200lbs you shouldn't be colapsing the shock that much. I really don't know what to say other than a dying shock.

 

[Banks93]

I concur because I use it and I am 220+ weight and no issues yet with 2600 miles.

 

[Irv]

How many miles are on your sled? Could be possible that the shock is getting weak. But unless there is 4000+ of hard ridden miles, I can't see a weak shock.

At 200lbs you shouldn't be colapsing the shock that much. I really don't know what to say other than a dying shock.

Interesting, the sled is under 3,000 miles??

The previous owner had it set at the factory setting and he probably has 30Lbs on me?
Could it be possible it was bottomed out way too many times and it pooched the shock?

I did everything by the book setting my sag and it came back around 48-50mm's of sag?

I put a post in the general section a while ago about shock revalving thinking this is what it needed, but now it may require more?
If it is pooched for some reason, what is all involved in getting it back up to snuff?
Thanks guys, appreciate the info

 

[theCATman]

A way to tell if it's getting weak is...

Grab the rear bumper, lift the sled off the ground and set it down gently. Then push down on the bumper with a slow & steady force.

Take note at the begining of the stroke (like maybe the first 1" or so) if it's very easy to compress (almost as if there is no resistance at all) and then it gradually gets harder to compress.

If this is the case, then the shock is for sure getting/going bad. This means for starters it's either low on oil (bad external seals) or the internal piston seals are bad and oil is seeping by upon the start of the stroke.

If the shock needs a rebuild, you'd have to take it out and send it off to a reputable shock rebuilder for new oil, seals, piston, and maybe even a shaft if it's got damage. Look to spend about $100 on a rebuild. Even if it needs a rebuild, I wouldn't do it now. Wait 'till the off-season. You're not gonna hurt anything in the meantime, unless it totally blows out, which you would know because the suspension would colapse with you on the sled & be a pogo stick without you on it.

I hope what I explained to do makes sense?

P.S. you are checking this with a thawed out sled that's not full of extra ice/snow weight too?

 

[Irv]

A way to tell if it's getting weak is...

Grab the rear bumper, lift the sled off the ground and set it down gently. Then push down on the bumper with a slow & steady force.

Take note at the begining of the stroke (like maybe the first 1" or so) if it's very easy to compress (almost as if there is no resistance at all) and then it gradually gets harder to compress.

If this is the case, then the shock is for sure getting/going bad. This means for starters it's either low on oil (bad external seals) or the internal piston seals are bad and oil is seeping by upon the start of the stroke.

If the shock needs a rebuild, you'd have to take it out and send it off to a reputable shock rebuilder for new oil, seals, piston, and maybe even a shaft if it's got damage. Look to spend about $100 on a rebuild. Even if it needs a rebuild, I wouldn't do it now. Wait 'till the off-season. You're not gonna hurt anything in the meantime, unless it totally blows out, which you would know because the suspension would colapse with you on the sled & be a pogo stick without you on it.

I hope what I explained to do makes sense?

P.S. you are checking this with a thawed out sled that's not full of extra ice/snow weight too?

It makes perfect sense Catman, thank-you

Just what you described about pushing down on the rear bumper has me thinking that is the way it is now?
I will be sure to double check but I remember when trying to set my sag, it seemed it would collapse or drop down way to easy after I had the rear fully extended.

I haven't noticed any oil on my shock yet but buying this sled used, it might have been all cleaned up unbenounced to the previous owner during the summerizing process?

I do have a good shock guy, Peak Velocity just north west of me in Claremont Ont, some peeps on here have used him and said he does great work.
I will also ask him to set the shock up for me and my riding style(revalve) while I have it out this coming spring/summer.

Thanks again, you have been a great help so far with all my issues/concerns, I appreciate it.

 

[oldyami]

first ride

When you get your sag set correctly move your transfer rod to the center setting on the tool provided then turn it go up towards the MAX.by 2 more lines,like 5/8 on a ruler.This made my 2010 handle like never before.

 

[hoseman]

2010 vector ltx gt set-up

thanks catman,i used your setup instructions very pleased with the results!! awsome!!! thank you very much !!!!
2010 vector ltx gt silver/white stock n rocks!!!!!