icebreaker
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I went with Ulmer kit and it works awesome. Better back shift, better acceleration. Its only money go for it!!!!!!!!!
tomseal6
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never was a fan of starting over at the primary with a new set of weights and a ton of rivets and 2 new springs to tune and deal with. If you can find the correct helix and setting, tuning the secondary to match the stock primary is a much cheaper option if you have an idea what will work. works just as good if not better then a $400 clutch kit.
I think we all really miss Turk. RIP my friend
I think we all really miss Turk. RIP my friend
snowbeast
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No he wants max rpms to be 10,800 at WO long pull past 100,but out of the hole it should jump right to 10,000 and shortly after go to 10,500 and creep from there,mine is all stock 2015 xtx now it has 1100 miles on,and engages around 3200 and rips right to 10,000 and a second after there its at 10,500 and creeps to 11,000,my book states max rpms at 10,750 and this always is followed by a plus or minus 200 rpms,i have had 7 apes and one rx1 and believe me there power has and always will be at 10,500 and up to 11,000 after 11,000 you start to drop off hard.He is only running about 10,200 for rpm and it doesn't have much back shift. Wrap is 1 and 6 and all stock springs. Apex only has 600 miles
snowbeast
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51/43 has always been factory on every apex I have owned and on my 03 rx1 I think they even had the 51/43 now I have a new 15 xtx ape and next week when I rip into it,i will let everyone know what helix it has,I can also tell you the stock 51/43 cut works as good as anyones billet helix's,they just don't look as preaty.going to 80 with a bruce schraeder 51/43 from pioneer really wakes up the 11+ models
The factory helix actually measures more like a 48/40
tomseal6
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measure it with the nut and straight edge, the 2 helix's will measure considerably different
snowbeast
TY 4 Stroke God
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I guess it don't really matter as that has been the best helix I have worked with on my apes and Yamaha call there stock helix just what I stated it was.measure it with the nut and straight edge, the 2 helix's will measure considerably different
VX1R
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I guess it don't really matter as that has been the best helix I have worked with on my apes and Yamaha call there stock helix just what I stated it was.
Agree. I've tried many different weights over the years in my Apex based sleds and the stock helix works the best. It might not look as pretty as a billet aftermarket helix but it gets the job done just fine.
I'm not touching mine, thing rocks to 109 mph gps....
tomseal6
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Many factors contribute to a gain or loss of a few hundred RPM's that may be needed either way to put you back in the power band. The sled was clutched for 90% of the riding I do and it wasn't right out of the box. I cant stop tinkering until it is perfect. I'm guessing when the sled is finally broken in, I will be going the other direction.
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