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2011 Apex SE rear suspension

Crazydiamond

Newbie
Joined
Nov 15, 2012
Messages
18
Age
58
Location
Appleton, WI
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2011 Apex SE, 2007 Phazer
I just bought the sled and was checking all suspension settings. The previous owner has the limiter strap shortened up 3 holes and transfer rod at max. Is this setup for hole shot on the lake? Will it handle well on trails like this?
 

Setting the control rod to max isn't very good in the trails as it'll create too much ski lift under acceleration, however it seems the previous owner countered this effect by shortening the limiter straps. I feel this reduces the effectiveness of the rear suspension as it was designed.

If I were you, I'd return the limiter straps to stock position (or maybe one hole shorter) and set the control rod to halfway. Then adjust the control rod while you're out riding (very easy to do) and get a feel for what you prefer.
 
As grimm says get that strap back to stock location. play with the transfer rod start at middle position and adjust til you get the desired transfer. Sounds like you want it to handle so you probably end up on the min transfer use the wrench in the tool kit. Depending on carbide setup up front you may tighten one hole on limiter strap.
 
On my '13 Apex XTX it was full out.
 
I seem to remember 5 different settings. start at 4 which is one hole down from max transfer.
 
On the '11's they had 5 holes, on the '12s and newer only 3 holes in the limiter straps.
 
Same as mentioned above put strap back at stock and t rod to middle and start from there...

It's always easier when you start with stock setting...

For trail riding you want as much rear travel as possible, On the trail I adjusted my t rod to full min and pertty sure found my sweet spot before the middle mark...

I take it you have the mega float, that's a different story, some love it some hate it, I had it in my GT for less than a riding season put the ohlins back, ohlins was way better, Very hard to have a consistent riding sled with the mega float, it's either to hard or to soft especially in changing trail conditions, I use to have it dailed in for the stutters bumps (rode great) but when hitting different trails or conditions would change to bigger bumps it would bottom, sometimes hard, back breaker...
Ohlins was handle bar controlled, so nice, or the standard apex with tunnel adjuster, both ride way better than the air shock, can't understand why Yamaha continues to use the mega...
 
Same as mentioned above put strap back at stock and t rod to middle and start from there...

It's always easier when you start with stock setting...

For trail riding you want as much rear travel as possible, On the trail I adjusted my t rod to full min and pertty sure found my sweet spot before the middle mark...

I take it you have the mega float, that's a different story, some love it some hate it, I had it in my GT for less than a riding season put the ohlins back, ohlins was way better, Very hard to have a consistent riding sled with the mega float, it's either to hard or to soft especially in changing trail conditions, I use to have it dailed in for the stutters bumps (rode great) but when hitting different trails or conditions would change to bigger bumps it would bottom, sometimes hard, back breaker...
Ohlins was handle bar controlled, so nice, or the standard apex with tunnel adjuster, both ride way better than the air shock, can't understand why Yamaha continues to use the mega...[/QU When I bought the sled it was first hole. When I picked it up they tightened it up all the way to last whole. Kind of baffled why they did this. Eveything else was at standard setting.
 
When I bought the sled the strap was in the first hole. When I picked it up they had it tightened all the way. Kind of baffled why they did this. Everything else was kept at standard setting. Transfer rod was set to middle. Rear shock was set at number 4 which is standard. 1 was min 7 max. The front preload was standard also at 5.3 inches on both
 


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