2011 APEX-SE---STUD LENGTH AND NUMBER???

[MrSled]

I would... at least the other owner was aware and tried something.

 

[snowman 700]

Just put a longer bolt to contact the bracket and use the nut as a jam. This is what I did. Shims the bracket and keeps it from flexing. No issues with My setup.

I have been chatting with the previous owner of this 2011 I picked up. He already shimmed the C brackets so I went out to take a peek. There is one nick dead center on the lip of the muffler but that's it. So it's close. He thinks they are 1.375 studs. If you look at the picture this method will not keep the brackets from crushing closed. I think I will change this set up over to one of the other methods shown just to be safe.

 

[SLEDSTART]

Just put a longer bolt to contact the bracket and use the nut as a jam. This is what I did. Shims the bracket and keeps it from flexing. No issues with My setup.

snowman, have not even had the seat off this sled yet but isn't that stud part of the tunnel? Do you have a picture of your set up? not sure I get what you mean???

Thanks

 

[snowman 700]

Just put a longer bolt to contact the bracket and use the nut as a jam. This is what I did. Shims the bracket and keeps it from flexing. No issues with My setup.

snowman, have not even had the seat off this sled yet but isn't that stud part of the tunnel? Do you have a picture of your set up? not sure I get what you mean???

Thanks

I replaced the stud (it is pop-riveted on) with a bolt I can't remember what length I bought I think it was around 2 "long but I bought various sizes to find the one that would fit. Find the one that will bottom out on the bracket and use the nut the same as your current setup. You do have to take off the seat and the gas tank but on the 2011 it is easy.

Sorry I don't have a pic and my sled is up north.

 

[SLEDSTART]

Just put a longer bolt to contact the bracket and use the nut as a jam. This is what I did. Shims the bracket and keeps it from flexing. No issues with My setup.

snowman, have not even had the seat off this sled yet but isn't that stud part of the tunnel? Do you have a picture of your set up? not sure I get what you mean???

Thanks

I replaced the stud (it is pop-riveted on) with a bolt I can't remember what length I bought I think it was around 2 "long but I bought various sizes to find the one that would fit. Find the one that will bottom out on the bracket and use the nut the same as your current setup. You do have to take off the seat and the gas tank but on the 2011 it is easy.

Sorry I don't have a pic and my sled is up north.

Got it...Thanks

Sounds like this might be the easiest way to go....

 

[ApexSE/Vector]

Did Yamaha "fix" the 2011 Apex stud clearance issue? If so, how, and could someone post pics of the 2012 set-up? I have a 2011 SE with a few nicks and am curious as to what Yamaha did and to what the site consensus is regarding the best and/or easiest DIY solution. The "factory 5 mm" spacer trick still allows the brackets to compress enough to to scrape. All the above mentioned remedies would appear to work and would like to know what the results have been after a full season.
Thanx

 

[MrSled]

My fix with the small angles...I have not had any scrapes or nicks since and I am not aware of any 2012 changes. And I have 3000 miles on since my change.

 

[ApexSE/Vector]

Thanx Mr. Sled. Did you experience any track rubbing as I believe you ended up with a total of 1/4" of shimming?

 

[MrSled]

Thanx Mr. Sled. Did you experience any track rubbing as I believe you ended up with a total of 1/4" of shimming?

Actually once I fixed the brackets from flexing the problem was gone and didnt need any shimming.

 

[ApexSE/Vector]

MrSled, I've not dropped the skid on a Yamaha. Any trick to dropping the skid on an Apex Se to reinforce the tunnel protectors? Maybe you could refer me to a link.
Thanx

 

[MrSled]

MrSled, I've not dropped the skid on a Yamaha. Any trick to dropping the skid on an Apex Se to reinforce the tunnel protectors? Maybe you could refer me to a link.
Thanx

There are several ways if you read thru this thread to reinforce the bracket...
you would find this link as well as others methods:

http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... ectors.htm

Remove one of the transfer rod mounting bolts to release the linking action of the skid, that about the best trick I can tell you....

 

[mr. shide]

3,000 km update. 2011 Apex SE.

I left the sled stock. No extra protection added. I have 102 1.325 Woody's Megabytes up the middle.

No tick marke anywhere. No problems.

I have had the sled up to 175 kph. I run the track tension on the loose side of spec.

I do avoid hitting the brakes agressively on hardpack or ice.

So you have/had a 2011 apex se, did no mods to brackets or protectors or anything and run 1.325" studs down the middle with no issues? Im getting a new 2011 se and may comsider studding it simply for icey conditions/safety. I plan to go with the shortest stud length possible that will still give me a bit of length/penetration past the factory lug height.

 

[Riceburner]

That is correct.

7,000 KM now. No issues.

Speeds up over 180 kph now not 175.

 

[mr. shide]

Ok. I may get the next size smaller, which would give me 1/4" of penetration instead of your setup with 3/8" of penetration. Just to
Be safe.

 

[Bigblue1]

There is much information in this segment on studding and some great solutions. Question: I am a heavy rider and I have had great success with the Ice Ripper. My weight and riding style maximize the stud tips so it acts like a fully studded track. i am about to purchase a 2011 left over. Should I have the same concerns with an Ice Ripper track?