tjc
Expert
can we get back to the build? haha. Lets not wreck this guys thread.
SwedishManiac
Veteran
This is 1 nice build, i lack words! Dang!
I was thinking i knew some skilled ppl but this is on another scale totally!
And yeah don't derail the topic, this nice build project tread shall not be bothered by some bickering!
PS i read this whole topic from 1st post and untill the end right now...even when i needed to go to bed before work.
Might get 2 hours of sleep tnx for it, but it was so worth it!
Keep up the good work and i shall follow this topic untill the end of time!
I was thinking i knew some skilled ppl but this is on another scale totally!
And yeah don't derail the topic, this nice build project tread shall not be bothered by some bickering!
PS i read this whole topic from 1st post and untill the end right now...even when i needed to go to bed before work.
Might get 2 hours of sleep tnx for it, but it was so worth it!
Keep up the good work and i shall follow this topic untill the end of time!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The second plate I made for the front fit better than first but still wasn't as good as it could be so I made version 3.0 today. This one fits much better, it's tighter to the lower 1-1/4" tubes, doesn't have the sharp bends in it, and follows the contours of the plastics more. It took little massaging with a block of wood and ball peen hammer but it's done.
Test fitting the third plate took a few hours because I have to remove the side panels and lower plastics each time to get it out for modification.
Installed some 6-32 rivnuts to hold the top.
Front plate cleaned up and ready for vinyl.
I didn't want to wait for powdercoating so I picked up a sheet of vinyl from the local sticker shop for $10. Hopefully this keeps any snow or ice from forming on the plate. This is the one and only time I'll ever wrap something on a sled, what a PIA.
Version 3.0 I can live with. Finally.
Tighter fit to the lower tubes this time around to keep snow out. I'll probably end up running a small bead of silicone along the edge.
Test fitting the third plate took a few hours because I have to remove the side panels and lower plastics each time to get it out for modification.
Installed some 6-32 rivnuts to hold the top.
Front plate cleaned up and ready for vinyl.
I didn't want to wait for powdercoating so I picked up a sheet of vinyl from the local sticker shop for $10. Hopefully this keeps any snow or ice from forming on the plate. This is the one and only time I'll ever wrap something on a sled, what a PIA.
Version 3.0 I can live with. Finally.
Tighter fit to the lower tubes this time around to keep snow out. I'll probably end up running a small bead of silicone along the edge.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
What fuel controller do you use ?
Will it be a mesh hood ?
Will it be a mesh hood ?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Using a PCV with MotoPsychos piggyback. I'm not sure what I'm going to do for the hood yet. Most likely a 3/8" or 1/2" aluminum tube frame with mesh over it. I need to finish the other four body panels first though.
Hard to see from the pics, but the wrapped aluminum sheet looks really tight to upper A-arm mounts ... How do you plan to get the bolts in there?
Duey782
Extreme
I like to keep a can of black plastidip around for pieces like this! A quick coat of that and you're good to go.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
OVR4D said:
The a-arm bolts run through the plate, the nuts are on the backside.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I had to rework part of the steering so today was kind of a slow day. When we put the steering together a week ago we ended up having to run the tie rods underneath the steering arm. This obviously puts the tapers of the rod end and steering arm holes against each other. We drilled out the arm enough to get the rod end in but since it wasn't seated against a taper it was a little sloppy and wanting to pull through the arm causing me to lose my tie rod travel and bind the tie rods. I noticed this last night while putting the front suspension back in. Today I pulled the steering post out and corrected it.
I made a new steering arm end from some 3/16 mild steel scrap I had lying around. Drilled & reamed a couple new holes and now have the tapers going the right direction.
Cut the end off the factory arm, welded mine on and gave it a coat of paint.
There's now plenty of rod end travel, no binding, and the rod end studs properly tighten down.
Here's a few pics with the front suspension back together for good. It hides the front plate fairly well.
Tomorrow I'm going to take a brake from the body work and get the wiring knocked out so I can hopefully have a running sled.
I made a new steering arm end from some 3/16 mild steel scrap I had lying around. Drilled & reamed a couple new holes and now have the tapers going the right direction.
Cut the end off the factory arm, welded mine on and gave it a coat of paint.
There's now plenty of rod end travel, no binding, and the rod end studs properly tighten down.
Here's a few pics with the front suspension back together for good. It hides the front plate fairly well.
Tomorrow I'm going to take a brake from the body work and get the wiring knocked out so I can hopefully have a running sled.
Still thinking of going with a screened hood? One like Diamond S makes would look cool.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
That does look good and my GF got a nice sewing machine for Christmas, I should put her to work. I started on the wiring today. Never a quick job but that's probably because we all know I can't leave well enough alone haha.
For starters, here's a picture of the previous location of everything.
First item on the chopping block was the voltage regulator. I moved the little harness holder from the forward bolt to the rearward so I could pull the harness up earlier. I cut out a good chunk of wire and re-used the oem pins which is always a PIA.
New lightweight 4.5" engine ground. Drilled and tapped a 10-32 hole in the diecast.
Old engine ground and voltage regulator wires. 5 more ounces off the sled and a cleaner look.
Drilled and tapped a 10-32 hole for the new .035 aluminum starter relay holder. Yami bolts are heavy and so are nuts which is the reason for all the small tapped holes. Plus I like using aircraft hardware.
I need to remove the large aluminum bracket that holds the ECU and touch up some old welds but otherwise this side of the sled is pretty much done.
Plenty of room to get at the starter relay. Part of the reason for moving it was to get out from underneath were my aluminum body panels will be. I want all the electrical to be accessible and serviceable with only the sidepanels removed.
Couple more tapped 8-32 holes & Adel clamps to hold the speedo wire.
Should have the electrical wrapped up Thursday depending on how much of the wiring I can leave alone.
For starters, here's a picture of the previous location of everything.
First item on the chopping block was the voltage regulator. I moved the little harness holder from the forward bolt to the rearward so I could pull the harness up earlier. I cut out a good chunk of wire and re-used the oem pins which is always a PIA.
New lightweight 4.5" engine ground. Drilled and tapped a 10-32 hole in the diecast.
Old engine ground and voltage regulator wires. 5 more ounces off the sled and a cleaner look.
Drilled and tapped a 10-32 hole for the new .035 aluminum starter relay holder. Yami bolts are heavy and so are nuts which is the reason for all the small tapped holes. Plus I like using aircraft hardware.
I need to remove the large aluminum bracket that holds the ECU and touch up some old welds but otherwise this side of the sled is pretty much done.
Plenty of room to get at the starter relay. Part of the reason for moving it was to get out from underneath were my aluminum body panels will be. I want all the electrical to be accessible and serviceable with only the sidepanels removed.
Couple more tapped 8-32 holes & Adel clamps to hold the speedo wire.
Should have the electrical wrapped up Thursday depending on how much of the wiring I can leave alone.
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Keep it up! I definitely appreciate the work you are doing with the wiring..I wire tucked my car a few years back and it can be very tedious but will turn out looking great!
And keep updating this thread..we have no snow right now and your thread it getting me through one day at a time...LOL
And keep updating this thread..we have no snow right now and your thread it getting me through one day at a time...LOL
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks!
I don't have a running sled yet but it's close. The only items left are mounting the tether, shortening the A/F gauge wiring, and tapping in the power for the A/F gauge. Spent a good part of today picking up all the little odds and ends needed to finish up.
The boost gauge came with some cheap rigid plastic tubing, a plastic tee, and compression fittings. Needless to say it all went in the scrap pile.
Picked up some brass fittings for the gauge side, a barbed brass tee, and some heavy duty 1/8" rubber tubing.
Moto's parts installed
Still need to finish the tether and clean up a few things but there won't be much under the hood.
Mounted the my box with the start button, on/off switch, and handwarmer/thumbwarmer switch. Figured I should label the on/off position in case anyone rides my sled.
Got the factory gauge mounted. I used the same bracket I ran last year, just modified a little.
I picked up a longer piece of shielding for the oil supply and started mocking up a for what will be a small stainless steel plate to keep my snow pants off the exhaust. I almost forgot I had oil lines on the backside of the tunnel hence the writing on the tape. I also got the my new Shorai battery installed.
I don't have a running sled yet but it's close. The only items left are mounting the tether, shortening the A/F gauge wiring, and tapping in the power for the A/F gauge. Spent a good part of today picking up all the little odds and ends needed to finish up.
The boost gauge came with some cheap rigid plastic tubing, a plastic tee, and compression fittings. Needless to say it all went in the scrap pile.
Picked up some brass fittings for the gauge side, a barbed brass tee, and some heavy duty 1/8" rubber tubing.
Moto's parts installed
Still need to finish the tether and clean up a few things but there won't be much under the hood.
Mounted the my box with the start button, on/off switch, and handwarmer/thumbwarmer switch. Figured I should label the on/off position in case anyone rides my sled.
Got the factory gauge mounted. I used the same bracket I ran last year, just modified a little.
I picked up a longer piece of shielding for the oil supply and started mocking up a for what will be a small stainless steel plate to keep my snow pants off the exhaust. I almost forgot I had oil lines on the backside of the tunnel hence the writing on the tape. I also got the my new Shorai battery installed.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I'm surprised nobody caught my wiring mistake in this picture. I was double checking a few things on the wiring today and wasn't getting any power in the harness. Not suppose to have power wires bolted to grounds, duh. It's now resting peacefully on the starter relay where it belongs. Thanks to my dad who found it, I've had a few too many late nights I think.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Nice progress !
I see you have the Yammie brake lever on the pics. are you going to use the Arctic one ?
Looking forward to see it complete and the final weight.
I see you have the Yammie brake lever on the pics. are you going to use the Arctic one ?
Looking forward to see it complete and the final weight.