..SNAKEBIT..
Expert
Caleb dont listen to AK
do it right the first time and you will have
MUCH better luck over all, no reason to just throw it togeather. to fix or redo things to make it better
remember the old saying pay me now or
pay me later
do it right the first time and you will have
MUCH better luck over all, no reason to just throw it togeather. to fix or redo things to make it better
remember the old saying pay me now or
pay me later
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
My rear axle was too short (cut it down a couple years ago) and oem cat axles are on backorder until March so I got a Timbersled axle through OFT and Rick machined it down to correct length. I'll be picking up my OFT billet upper wheels in the lower 48. All four bearings in the skid are new.
He also machined some new aluminum front arm spacers for me.
I finished replacing the driveshaft bearings and seals, cleaned up the chaincase cover, brake, & oil tank then put the track and skid in. Gearing is 20/40 now instead of 19/40. Put the gas tank and seat on to see what it was going to start looking like.
Here's a pic showing the clearance to everything. Hopefully it's enough.
Next project was to wrap up the cooling. Here's the lower hose that just goes to the front cooler.
Upper hose going to the motor.
Working on the primary clutch now so I can get it balanced before the trip. I have a new spring, rollers, and weights to put in. I'm loading it up in the morning and heading to Ricks to knock the steering out.
He also machined some new aluminum front arm spacers for me.
I finished replacing the driveshaft bearings and seals, cleaned up the chaincase cover, brake, & oil tank then put the track and skid in. Gearing is 20/40 now instead of 19/40. Put the gas tank and seat on to see what it was going to start looking like.
Here's a pic showing the clearance to everything. Hopefully it's enough.
Next project was to wrap up the cooling. Here's the lower hose that just goes to the front cooler.
Upper hose going to the motor.
Working on the primary clutch now so I can get it balanced before the trip. I have a new spring, rollers, and weights to put in. I'm loading it up in the morning and heading to Ricks to knock the steering out.
It looks like a sled, I like it. 
Installing this M-10 sucks!
Installing this M-10 sucks!
I look forward to seeing it in person this weekend.
Tarzan
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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- Yamaha Nytro and SideWinder BTX
Super nice!
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
are you out riding ?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I'm actually not sleeping. It's 6 am and I'm about to go hard in the paint. Steering is done, I took lots of pics I'll post later today. Here's a crappy cell pic for now. I still have a lot to do before we leave today.
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
This build reminds me so much of my turbo car build I did this past summer. I had a deadline for a car show and ended up working non-stop late nights the final week to tie everything together.
Hey, at least I know there is someone else that has one thing in common with me - We enjoy doing massive build during the season when were supposed to be using our toys!
But sleep is for the weak, don't start sacrificing quality just because your tired...I didn't and I know you wont!
Cant wait to see it all finished up!
Hey, at least I know there is someone else that has one thing in common with me - We enjoy doing massive build during the season when were supposed to be using our toys!
But sleep is for the weak, don't start sacrificing quality just because your tired...I didn't and I know you wont!
Cant wait to see it all finished up!
..SNAKEBIT..
Expert
you guys on the road south?
thought we would see some ready to ride pics
before you loaded.
thought we would see some ready to ride pics
before you loaded.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Action shots only....didn't invest in that GoPro for nothing! LOL
Good luck guys.
OTM
Good luck guys.
OTM
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Unfortunately only Rick is headed south. Here's a few pics from the last couple days of progress. Since I'm not heading down I'm going to redo some of the body work I had hacked together last minute so the sled still turns out nice. I did rebuild both clutches last week with all new components and had the primary balanced with was only out 2.75 grams. The machine shop said most Doo clutches are out an average 14 grams and Polaris 8 grams. No wonder they have crank problems 
To hold the back of the seat down I set a couple small rivnuts in epoxy.
Oil supply line
Rick is responsible for for most of the steering. I help with a few of the brackets but the rest was all him and he did a fantastic job. It wasn't easy but somehow he got it all to work.
The lower steering block he made on his lathe
A stock steering arm cut down. I pulled the upper needle bearing out and Rick opened up the arm to accept 1-1/8" 4130 tube which was welded into the arm.
The bottom is a piece of 1-1/8" tube with the lower block welded on. The steering arm slides right over the top and pivots on the lower needle bearing.
The steering was way out of whack at first(massive toe in with the a-arms compressed) so we had to put the the lower ball joints on the underside of the steering arm and the outer rode ends on top of the spindle arm.
Post angle. It's pretty dang close to a stock setup with OFT relocator.
Upper brackets are .063 4130
Rick welding the 7/8" t-top in
The tie rods had to be bent in two different places to clear the shocks and upper a-arm mounts while not putting any of the rod ends under a bind. Rick bent up both tie rods and welded threaded bushings in the ends that he made.
The post and tie rods before paint. The post is 1-1/8 .058 4130 and as pictured weighs only 2.67 lbs compared to a factory MTX post which is 3.4 lbs without any steering linkage. The tie rods are 3/4 .065 with 5/16 chromoly rod ends and aluminum jam nuts. Both tie rods with the outer rod ends weigh 1.84 lbs.
The spindle mounting consists of high strength 1/4" bolts with chromoly spacers that Rick made.
Upper bracket painted
lightweight gas tank vent
Blow off valve routing (goes underneath the gas tank)
Couple of the turbo done
The fastest and easiest way to enclose the front was to just use a single sheet to tie in both sides behind the pyramid. The one in the pics was thrown together late Wednesday night and is .040. I picked up a sheet of .032 5052 today to make a new one that fits tighter and better follows the contours of the plastic.
Visually I'm not sure how much I like it enclosed behind the pyramid, but it's extremely light and saves me from having to make 3 separate panels and mount tie rod boots. It's definitely going to look a little Phazerish when done.
To hold the back of the seat down I set a couple small rivnuts in epoxy.
Oil supply line
Rick is responsible for for most of the steering. I help with a few of the brackets but the rest was all him and he did a fantastic job. It wasn't easy but somehow he got it all to work.
The lower steering block he made on his lathe
A stock steering arm cut down. I pulled the upper needle bearing out and Rick opened up the arm to accept 1-1/8" 4130 tube which was welded into the arm.
The bottom is a piece of 1-1/8" tube with the lower block welded on. The steering arm slides right over the top and pivots on the lower needle bearing.
The steering was way out of whack at first(massive toe in with the a-arms compressed) so we had to put the the lower ball joints on the underside of the steering arm and the outer rode ends on top of the spindle arm.
Post angle. It's pretty dang close to a stock setup with OFT relocator.
Upper brackets are .063 4130
Rick welding the 7/8" t-top in
The tie rods had to be bent in two different places to clear the shocks and upper a-arm mounts while not putting any of the rod ends under a bind. Rick bent up both tie rods and welded threaded bushings in the ends that he made.
The post and tie rods before paint. The post is 1-1/8 .058 4130 and as pictured weighs only 2.67 lbs compared to a factory MTX post which is 3.4 lbs without any steering linkage. The tie rods are 3/4 .065 with 5/16 chromoly rod ends and aluminum jam nuts. Both tie rods with the outer rod ends weigh 1.84 lbs.
The spindle mounting consists of high strength 1/4" bolts with chromoly spacers that Rick made.
Upper bracket painted
lightweight gas tank vent
Blow off valve routing (goes underneath the gas tank)
Couple of the turbo done
The fastest and easiest way to enclose the front was to just use a single sheet to tie in both sides behind the pyramid. The one in the pics was thrown together late Wednesday night and is .040. I picked up a sheet of .032 5052 today to make a new one that fits tighter and better follows the contours of the plastic.
Visually I'm not sure how much I like it enclosed behind the pyramid, but it's extremely light and saves me from having to make 3 separate panels and mount tie rod boots. It's definitely going to look a little Phazerish when done.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Sweet !
Whats the the difference of mounting the BOV so close to the turbo vs. On the charge tube near the intake ?
The oil supply to the turbo looks like its exposed to serious heat against the turbo housing.
I like the plating behind the pyramid, you could use the finished plate as a mold and make it out of carbon. The colour of carbon would make it blend in better.
Whats the the difference of mounting the BOV so close to the turbo vs. On the charge tube near the intake ?
The oil supply to the turbo looks like its exposed to serious heat against the turbo housing.
I like the plating behind the pyramid, you could use the finished plate as a mold and make it out of carbon. The colour of carbon would make it blend in better.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
double post..
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The blowoff is in the rear to keep weight in the back. It doesn't weigh much, but it's something.
Worked on the new front piece today. I bought new lower plastics to cut up since my old ones had been modified so many times and were wore out.
I need to replace some of the washers on the backside with fender washers so I can get the plastic sucked up a little more but it fits pretty good. Once it's powder coated it should blend right in.
Worked on the new front piece today. I bought new lower plastics to cut up since my old ones had been modified so many times and were wore out.
I need to replace some of the washers on the backside with fender washers so I can get the plastic sucked up a little more but it fits pretty good. Once it's powder coated it should blend right in.
Nice job Caleb. The steering post turned out to be more simplistic than I was thinking it would. I really like that your tie rods are above the lower A-arms.
Are you fastening that aluminum sheet with screws or rivets? How hard was it to get it to fit behind the pyramid in one piece?
Must be bittersweet to see it coming together and not be on the trip with Rick, but we all know that there are a million little details to work out and some things just can't be rushed. Your build quality is excellent, so why cut corners now. Anyway, Drew needs a riding partner so get-r-done!
Are you fastening that aluminum sheet with screws or rivets? How hard was it to get it to fit behind the pyramid in one piece?
Must be bittersweet to see it coming together and not be on the trip with Rick, but we all know that there are a million little details to work out and some things just can't be rushed. Your build quality is excellent, so why cut corners now. Anyway, Drew needs a riding partner so get-r-done!