Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The rear panels are pretty much done. I need to do some edge finishing and pick up rivets in the morning then I'll wrap them up. Took most of the day to get both made up and fitted. I'll actually end up using less fasteners than I was expecting to, they ended up being pretty rigid.
Took a couple cardboard mockups and a scrapped aluminum one before I was ready for the final products. Here they are drawn out on .032 5052.
Cut out and bent up. They're a hair under 8 ounces each so not much weight too them.
First step was getting them attached to the side of the tunnel.
Next I laid out the holes for the rivets going into the forward most 5/8" running board tube.
And then I put a hole in each 1/2" tube to keep the plate pulled forward (there is no stress on it).
That was followed by laying out holes for the lower plastics.
Everything lines up really well and sits flush with each other.
Then I put three more holes in the side of the plastic.
Last step was drilling holes in the outer bar. I put them next to the Dzus fasteners to keep it clean. These three holes will get 6-32 rivnuts. I also added an additional Dzus fastener at the upper corner to keep the plastic snug against the aluminum.
All the lower fasteners into the tunnel and 5/8" bar will be cherry max rivets and the holes into the plastic will be 6-32 machine screws with nuts, with the upper three being screws into rivnuts. This allows me to completely remove the lower plastics, and by not riveting the upper 3 holes, there's enough to pull the top of the plate back to access anything under the gas tank.
More tomorrow.
Took a couple cardboard mockups and a scrapped aluminum one before I was ready for the final products. Here they are drawn out on .032 5052.
Cut out and bent up. They're a hair under 8 ounces each so not much weight too them.
First step was getting them attached to the side of the tunnel.
Next I laid out the holes for the rivets going into the forward most 5/8" running board tube.
And then I put a hole in each 1/2" tube to keep the plate pulled forward (there is no stress on it).
That was followed by laying out holes for the lower plastics.
Everything lines up really well and sits flush with each other.
Then I put three more holes in the side of the plastic.
Last step was drilling holes in the outer bar. I put them next to the Dzus fasteners to keep it clean. These three holes will get 6-32 rivnuts. I also added an additional Dzus fastener at the upper corner to keep the plastic snug against the aluminum.
All the lower fasteners into the tunnel and 5/8" bar will be cherry max rivets and the holes into the plastic will be 6-32 machine screws with nuts, with the upper three being screws into rivnuts. This allows me to completely remove the lower plastics, and by not riveting the upper 3 holes, there's enough to pull the top of the plate back to access anything under the gas tank.
More tomorrow.
Modedmach1
Newbie
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2012
- Messages
- 11
That turned out nice!!! 
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Looking clean as usual! I was just thinking, do you have plans for a front bumper? I would hate to see all that work get tweaked or messed up by bumping or running into something!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
No front bumper. I may add one later if I missing not having one enough.
I took a break from the rear panels to finish up the skid plate. I had a Roest shorty skidplate but it would have required so much cutting I decided to build my own out of 1/8" aluminum. I made pockets for the lower plastic tabs and it fits pretty good. The piece of angle on the back is to close the gap between the cooler and skidplate. I put vinyl on it for the time being until I get a chance to powder coat it. I need to find some slightly smaller fender washers too, I just used what I had lying around.
Next job was finishing the rear panels 100%. In this pic all the fasteners are in expect the three 6-32 screws that go into the rivnuts. As I explained earlier, this gives me plenty of room to access the the fuel level sensor, oil & coolant hoses, ect.
And here's a couple with them completely done.
I'm looking forward to the small upper two panels, they'll be a piece of cake.
I took a break from the rear panels to finish up the skid plate. I had a Roest shorty skidplate but it would have required so much cutting I decided to build my own out of 1/8" aluminum. I made pockets for the lower plastic tabs and it fits pretty good. The piece of angle on the back is to close the gap between the cooler and skidplate. I put vinyl on it for the time being until I get a chance to powder coat it. I need to find some slightly smaller fender washers too, I just used what I had lying around.
Next job was finishing the rear panels 100%. In this pic all the fasteners are in expect the three 6-32 screws that go into the rivnuts. As I explained earlier, this gives me plenty of room to access the the fuel level sensor, oil & coolant hoses, ect.
And here's a couple with them completely done.
I'm looking forward to the small upper two panels, they'll be a piece of cake.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Finished the upper panels today. The body panels have been painfully slow, I'm pretty happy all I have left is the hood.
Made a couple more poster board templates before transferring to the .032 5052. Weight is 9 ounces for both.
I wanted to keep the holes in my 3/4" tubes as small as possible while still keeping the panels removable so I used some 6-32 sheetmetal screws and screwed them into a 3/32 hole in the chromoly.
Before side panels.
Done. I put the raised 1" lips on the inside so the sides of my hood would have something to rest against.
I'm removing the 156x16x2.5 and picking up a 155x15x2.5 camo extreme tomorrow. I bought the 16 wide with the intention of cutting down, but it was cheaper to get the 155 and sell my 156 since I'd have to buy I saw to cut the 156 down. Plus I needed new drivers anyway so I ordered 7-tooth 2.86" drivers from Avid today.
Made a couple more poster board templates before transferring to the .032 5052. Weight is 9 ounces for both.
I wanted to keep the holes in my 3/4" tubes as small as possible while still keeping the panels removable so I used some 6-32 sheetmetal screws and screwed them into a 3/32 hole in the chromoly.
Before side panels.
Done. I put the raised 1" lips on the inside so the sides of my hood would have something to rest against.
I'm removing the 156x16x2.5 and picking up a 155x15x2.5 camo extreme tomorrow. I bought the 16 wide with the intention of cutting down, but it was cheaper to get the 155 and sell my 156 since I'd have to buy I saw to cut the 156 down. Plus I needed new drivers anyway so I ordered 7-tooth 2.86" drivers from Avid today.
What kind of Handle bars are those? And what is needed to make the cat break lever work?
Amazing build by the way. I love watching this come together.
Amazing build by the way. I love watching this come together.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The handlebars are Fly Racing Mini bends, narrowed with 45* bar ends.
I'm not running the Cat lever yet but here's a link to beeze455's write up.
Cat reservoir swap
I'm not running the Cat lever yet but here's a link to beeze455's write up.
Cat reservoir swap
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Got the lightly used 155 camo extreme. I'm not sure if this is a single ply track, or if it's the center ports but it's way more pliable than my 156. It's pretty light as well, the 155 is only 55.5 lbs and the 156 is around 62 lbs.
The original plan for a hood was a tube frame and mesh but with the tunnel having a lot of 45 degree bends I didn't want a rounded front end to look out of place. I've been contemplating making a 2 piece sheetmetal hood with some 45 degree bends in to match the rear. I did a quick mock up so I could take a few pics and see what you guys though. The front half pictured now would have a few screws since it doesn't limit access to anything. The second piece would utilize a couple Dzus fasteners or rubber straps for quick removal.
Does it look good? Match the back? Dumb? I haven't started fabbing anything yet so you won't hurt my feelings haha.
The original plan for a hood was a tube frame and mesh but with the tunnel having a lot of 45 degree bends I didn't want a rounded front end to look out of place. I've been contemplating making a 2 piece sheetmetal hood with some 45 degree bends in to match the rear. I did a quick mock up so I could take a few pics and see what you guys though. The front half pictured now would have a few screws since it doesn't limit access to anything. The second piece would utilize a couple Dzus fasteners or rubber straps for quick removal.
Does it look good? Match the back? Dumb? I haven't started fabbing anything yet so you won't hurt my feelings haha.
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Ill give my $0.02. I personally think a mesh hood of some kind would be nice. Black mesh like posted a few pages back, but clearly you would have to wrap it over a custom support. It would really set the sled apart from others and give it that cool see-through look for everyone to see all your amazing work. No point covering it all up Maybe even extend the mesh down to the front triangle you have to keep some snow out of the a-arms area....I'm sure you'll do something nice!
Maybe even extend the mesh down to the front triangle you have to keep some snow out of the a-arms area....I'm sure you'll do something nice!mike g
Extreme
That hood makes it look like a sno scoot
X2Beenba said:Ill give my $0.02. I personally think a mesh hood of some kind would be nice. Black mesh like posted a few pages back, but clearly you would have to wrap it over a custom support. It would really set the sled apart from others and give it that cool see-through look for everyone to see all your amazing work. No point covering it all up
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Caleb:
I agree with the guys...it needs a mesh top... sheet alum and it'll look like a duck billed platapus.
Something like this in small tubing maybe? Well for inspiration anyway....
Good luck and it's looking killer. Where do you think you'll be in weight?
OTM
I agree with the guys...it needs a mesh top... sheet alum and it'll look like a duck billed platapus.
Something like this in small tubing maybe? Well for inspiration anyway....
Good luck and it's looking killer. Where do you think you'll be in weight?
OTM
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I have to vote for a mesh hood. The bent sheet makes it look to much like its home made 
Caleb:
Does Drew have access to the plastics from a Venture Lite? I'm wondering how well the top portion of that hood would fit the contours your sled ... If you could get your hands on one, it might be something you could use to mock up a mesh hood or even something that could be used on your sled. I'm referring to just the top portion - the maroon piece in these pics:
Does Drew have access to the plastics from a Venture Lite? I'm wondering how well the top portion of that hood would fit the contours your sled ... If you could get your hands on one, it might be something you could use to mock up a mesh hood or even something that could be used on your sled. I'm referring to just the top portion - the maroon piece in these pics:
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Off Trail Mike said:Caleb:
I agree with the guys...it needs a mesh top... sheet alum and it'll look like a duck billed platapus.
Something like this in small tubing maybe? Well for inspiration anyway....
Good luck and it's looking killer. Where do you think you'll be in weight?
OTM
That's exactly like I was thinking, would give it an aggressive look!!!!