Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
is it possible to modify your old hood and use it as a base ?
maybe cut it out and use it as a frame for the mesh.
Will there be any venting in the sheets in front of the feet ?
maybe cut it out and use it as a frame for the mesh.
Will there be any venting in the sheets in front of the feet ?
kennyspec
Expert
Sled looks awesome! Can't wait for the first vids.
What diameter charge pipe are you running? Is it the same diameter all the way to the throttle bodies? Is there any benefit to making a larger plenum area right before the throttle bodies?
What diameter charge pipe are you running? Is it the same diameter all the way to the throttle bodies? Is there any benefit to making a larger plenum area right before the throttle bodies?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I settled on a tube/mesh hood. Started working on it today.
I sent the 7-tooth 2.86 drivers back to Avid and ordered 8-tooth 2.86 drivers this morning. The 7's would have dropped my track down really close to the front arm of the skid and the track approach angle would have had he track tight to the rail tips. The 8-tooth's will give up some clearance but I know they'll fit, allow me to use the upper front swingarm hole if I choose, lower the approach angle, and decrease rolling resistance.
I also ordered the BDX rear skid arms today from a buddy so I could jig the factory arms and build my own chromoly set. Once I get my own set built I'll sell the BDX kit, but that probably won't happen until summer.
The throttle bodies are 2", so the charge tube is 2" until after the elbows, then it reduces to 1.75" (compressor outlet adapter is 1.75"). I was told this would be adequate for the low boost I'm running but I didn't do any math to back it up. Just went off Drew and Ricks word.
I sent the 7-tooth 2.86 drivers back to Avid and ordered 8-tooth 2.86 drivers this morning. The 7's would have dropped my track down really close to the front arm of the skid and the track approach angle would have had he track tight to the rail tips. The 8-tooth's will give up some clearance but I know they'll fit, allow me to use the upper front swingarm hole if I choose, lower the approach angle, and decrease rolling resistance.
I also ordered the BDX rear skid arms today from a buddy so I could jig the factory arms and build my own chromoly set. Once I get my own set built I'll sell the BDX kit, but that probably won't happen until summer.
The throttle bodies are 2", so the charge tube is 2" until after the elbows, then it reduces to 1.75" (compressor outlet adapter is 1.75"). I was told this would be adequate for the low boost I'm running but I didn't do any math to back it up. Just went off Drew and Ricks word.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Some hood progress.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I've been unemployed since Jan. 1st but Wednesday I started a temporary full time job(until my main employer calls me back) so progress has been a little slow. Started back on the hood tonight and should be able to finish all the frame work.
8-tooth 2.86" Avid drivers showed up yesterday.
Started off bending the upper frame work. Once all the bends were made I cut 3/4" out of the 180* bend to close it up around the steering post a little better.
Test fitting after bending the sides down a little to match the steering hoop. I'm going to leave it open at the top so heat can get out.
Trying to parallel the lower tube for looks and to retain a low profile.
Done and ready to tack in place.
Threw together a quick bender for the tubes that follow the hoop.
Finished tube ready to tack.
Tacked in place. Followed the hoop as best I could.
Other side tacked.
With the most time consuming part done I should be able to knock out the four frame supports before the night is over.
8-tooth 2.86" Avid drivers showed up yesterday.
Started off bending the upper frame work. Once all the bends were made I cut 3/4" out of the 180* bend to close it up around the steering post a little better.
Test fitting after bending the sides down a little to match the steering hoop. I'm going to leave it open at the top so heat can get out.
Trying to parallel the lower tube for looks and to retain a low profile.
Done and ready to tack in place.
Threw together a quick bender for the tubes that follow the hoop.
Finished tube ready to tack.
Tacked in place. Followed the hoop as best I could.
Other side tacked.
With the most time consuming part done I should be able to knock out the four frame supports before the night is over.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I really like the looks of it !
What throttle block are you using ?
What throttle block are you using ?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The throttle block is from CR Racing. It's a nice piece but the throttle cable needs to be safety wired to the block to keep it from pulling out.
Front supports tacked in place. I set them tight on the subframe tubes so they can't bend when I roll the sled.
Added a tube to help tie the front supports together, and keep the fabric off the steering post.
I have two straight tubes left and it's ready for fabric.
Front supports tacked in place. I set them tight on the subframe tubes so they can't bend when I roll the sled.
Added a tube to help tie the front supports together, and keep the fabric off the steering post.
I have two straight tubes left and it's ready for fabric.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Last two supports tacked in place.
A couple completed pictures. I'm going to weld it tomorrow.
The 1/2" tube I had lying around is pretty thick, .080 2024 and the complete frame still only weighs 1.25 lbs.
A couple completed pictures. I'm going to weld it tomorrow.
The 1/2" tube I had lying around is pretty thick, .080 2024 and the complete frame still only weighs 1.25 lbs.
mike g
Extreme
I think I found your inspiration for the hood.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
And you just posted the inspiration for my next chassis haha.
Very nice fit-up Caleb. It actually looks like it might be too tight to your charge tube. Whatcha gonna use for fabric?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I was originally planning on using Ceconite with a couple inspection cover rings (with screen for venting) but fiberglass is easier and a lot cheaper. I got it taped tonight and I'm hoping tomorrow I can get it finalized and a shell made.
That's gonna look good. I don't have much experience working with fiberglass ... and I've never seen anyone use painter's tape to form a mold before. Will you just lay mat (woven roving) over the tape and use acetone to scrape off the tape later, or do you have to apply a parting wax of some sort?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
No need for wax with the tape, it'll pop right off. I've used tape a lot in the past and it works great.