Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Why dont you use mesh like the air frame hood ?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Mostly just because I already have the material for fiberglass and I want to ride Sunday.
Modedmach1
Newbie
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2012
- Messages
- 11
Good idea using masking tape for a backer.. I have done a bit of glass work & never thought of that.
Look forward to hearing how it runs.
Look forward to hearing how it runs.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Started back on the hood this morning. I'm using polyester resin because its cheap and the set up time is quick so I can finish it today. I did three layers of cloth. Once it dries I'll sand it smooth, apply another coat of resin, and then lightly sand the gloss finish off that and be done. This is only a temporary hood, this summer I'm going to tape the hood and sidepanels on the sled and try to make a one piece body shroud.
Picked up the BDX rear arms yesterday. I was kind of skeptical of BDX after bending the lower shock shaft but the quality appears good on these, they welds look great anyway. I'm swapping my new drivers, track, and skid arms today so I'll weigh both sets of arms and post if the 5 lb loss claimed by BDS is accurate.
Picked up the BDX rear arms yesterday. I was kind of skeptical of BDX after bending the lower shock shaft but the quality appears good on these, they welds look great anyway. I'm swapping my new drivers, track, and skid arms today so I'll weigh both sets of arms and post if the 5 lb loss claimed by BDS is accurate.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I posted all the BDX details in the Arctic Cat Float thread but the skid is down to 41 lbs now.
Hood after the first sanding.
Put two more coats of resin on. Tomorrow I'll sand the gloss off and add some venting.
Got the new drivers pressed on. Here's a size comparison pic.
Stainless steel heat shield to keep my snow pants off the exhaust.
I really didn't want to have to remove any plastics in order to disassemble the chaincase and remove the driveshaft so I found a small 3/4" rubber plug and drilled a hole beneath the chaincase drain. I was able to cleanly remove the track and driveshaft without touching any of the plastics.
Should have it all wrapped up tomorrow.
Hood after the first sanding.
Put two more coats of resin on. Tomorrow I'll sand the gloss off and add some venting.
Got the new drivers pressed on. Here's a size comparison pic.
Stainless steel heat shield to keep my snow pants off the exhaust.
I really didn't want to have to remove any plastics in order to disassemble the chaincase and remove the driveshaft so I found a small 3/4" rubber plug and drilled a hole beneath the chaincase drain. I was able to cleanly remove the track and driveshaft without touching any of the plastics.
Should have it all wrapped up tomorrow.
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Gonna be great to see it all finished up and riding!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The coolant lines were making me a little nervous so I wrapped them both in .007 SS shim stock.
Hood is 90% sanded with the front screen cut out. Tomorrow I'll put the finish coat on and call it good.
About all I have left to do is download Jeff's fuel map and ride.
Hood is 90% sanded with the front screen cut out. Tomorrow I'll put the finish coat on and call it good.
About all I have left to do is download Jeff's fuel map and ride.
mike g
Extreme
And weigh it
sledhead23
Extreme
Are you going to do wet and dry weight?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Edit: I had to upgrade my Photobucket account so all the pics in my thread should be restored shortly.
It will be weighed full of coolant and oil, but only one gallon of gas.
Ive been working on the sled after work every night this week and I finally finished all the body work. I'm extremely happy with how it turned out. Tomorrow I'm doing the fuel programming and then it's done.
Made a plate to cover the opening underneath the charge tube.
Small plate to cover the front opening above the post and also hold my hood down.
8-32 aluminum riv nuts with a couple screws cut down to use as studs. The screws were put in with red loctite.
The studs slide into the holes when pushing the hood on. The helps align and secure the front of the hood.
For the back of the hood I used a 10-32 aluminum rivnut and a thumb screw on each side.
I had always planned on running the aluminum vent cutout on top of the hood but it just ended up not looking very good...
...so I put the vent on the backside. The outer layer is pre-filter material and there's a layer of fine mesh screen behind it for a little added reinforcement. I bolted it the hood with 4-40 screws so the pre-filter could easily be replaced if I tore it. And yeah, blue tape does not work anywhere near as well as duct tape. There's a permanent layer of tape on the backside of my hood that the resin soaked in to. Polyester resins are kind of pain to work with and the blue tape did not help. This is only a temp hood though so I'm no too worried about it.
Done.
The hood is 2.25 lbs for the frame, shell, vent, and thumbscrews. This summer I'll make a new mold that eliminates the need for the aluminum frame and I'll do a single layer of CF. Should get it under a pound.
Can't wait to ride
It will be weighed full of coolant and oil, but only one gallon of gas.
Ive been working on the sled after work every night this week and I finally finished all the body work. I'm extremely happy with how it turned out. Tomorrow I'm doing the fuel programming and then it's done.
Made a plate to cover the opening underneath the charge tube.
Small plate to cover the front opening above the post and also hold my hood down.
8-32 aluminum riv nuts with a couple screws cut down to use as studs. The screws were put in with red loctite.
The studs slide into the holes when pushing the hood on. The helps align and secure the front of the hood.
For the back of the hood I used a 10-32 aluminum rivnut and a thumb screw on each side.
I had always planned on running the aluminum vent cutout on top of the hood but it just ended up not looking very good...
...so I put the vent on the backside. The outer layer is pre-filter material and there's a layer of fine mesh screen behind it for a little added reinforcement. I bolted it the hood with 4-40 screws so the pre-filter could easily be replaced if I tore it. And yeah, blue tape does not work anywhere near as well as duct tape. There's a permanent layer of tape on the backside of my hood that the resin soaked in to. Polyester resins are kind of pain to work with and the blue tape did not help. This is only a temp hood though so I'm no too worried about it.
Done.
The hood is 2.25 lbs for the frame, shell, vent, and thumbscrews. This summer I'll make a new mold that eliminates the need for the aluminum frame and I'll do a single layer of CF. Should get it under a pound.
Can't wait to ride
Sabaton
Newbie
is it just me who cant see the pictures ??
Nikolai said:Edit: I had to upgrade my Photobucket account so all the pics in my thread should be restored shortly.
Beenba
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Hurry and fix your dam account! I wanna see! 
Haha, glad to hear your wrapping things up!
Haha, glad to hear your wrapping things up!
sledhead23
Extreme
I cant see them either, Please hurry and fix it! This is my favourite thread and I check it daily for updates haha. cant wait to see the finished product
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I'm working on it. My account should have been upgraded by now.