mckinney
Newbie
Yes, I have been checking that out too. Ulmer used to have a kit to remote mount oil filter. Want to tunnel mount cooler to remove front cooler, but I have older push turbo and it eliminated the factory tunnel cooler to mount charge tube on that side. So I will have to look it over and see if there is room on the left side of tunnel. And fab new tunnel coolers. But I also need to insulate trailer and mount rv furnace to melt sleds as this last week was powder heaven in Wyoming.
mckinney
mckinney
mckinney
Newbie
A few years ago I talked with skins at the snow show and they mentioned getting the rider as forward as I could. So I took my oft steering riser and put the bottom hole of riser in top hole of frame and that gave me a better steering angle. I know Nikolai's machine is different but stockers with the riser will work. Had to cut the dash a bit and remove the headlight. Got a small led light to replace with.
Wanting to build front suspension narrow like 34". I have the 08 shocks that are 17.5 and want to keep that with the narrow front end. Would like to try using axys spindles as they are longer from bottom arm to ski to get the front out of the snow.
mckinney
Wanting to build front suspension narrow like 34". I have the 08 shocks that are 17.5 and want to keep that with the narrow front end. Would like to try using axys spindles as they are longer from bottom arm to ski to get the front out of the snow.
mckinney
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Post some pics when you get around to building your front end.
Cooler mod has been slow. Had to take the rotary bit back to the bulkhead quite a bit more. Finished that up and cut my new 3/16 side plates. It wasn't until I started fitting them that I realized the cast webbing isn't exactly the same on both sides. The fit wasn't very good so I scrapped them. Knowing the mistakes of the first set, the second set fit perfect.
Sunday Im going to try and get the cooler sides cut off and the engine & subframe back on so I can start fitting the cooler for good.
Cooler mod has been slow. Had to take the rotary bit back to the bulkhead quite a bit more. Finished that up and cut my new 3/16 side plates. It wasn't until I started fitting them that I realized the cast webbing isn't exactly the same on both sides. The fit wasn't very good so I scrapped them. Knowing the mistakes of the first set, the second set fit perfect.
Sunday Im going to try and get the cooler sides cut off and the engine & subframe back on so I can start fitting the cooler for good.
kennyspec
Expert
After riding my sled I would really ditch the front cooler and just build a bigger one in the rear. With any decent amount of snow the coolant on the outlet side of the cooler comes out just warm. It works so good. would give you lots more clearance for the track if you only had to run a piece of aluminum for a front blockoff plate.
pic of the cooler, there is hole and block off plates in the little bulkheads so the coolant runs through each pass in series. I think its about 24" long 16" wide. works awesome
this is the supply line from the tstat to the cooler
return line from the cooler to the "T" I made back into the engine
here is the "T" I made, bottom goes to the engine water pump intake, right side is return from the cooler, left side is the return from the bypass loop of the tstat to the water pump intake.
I welded fittings on to the tstat housing. left side fitting is to the intake of rear cooler. and then there is also a fitting on the bottom of the tstat that is the bypass loop back to that "T" fitting
pic of the cooler, there is hole and block off plates in the little bulkheads so the coolant runs through each pass in series. I think its about 24" long 16" wide. works awesome
this is the supply line from the tstat to the cooler
return line from the cooler to the "T" I made back into the engine
here is the "T" I made, bottom goes to the engine water pump intake, right side is return from the cooler, left side is the return from the bypass loop of the tstat to the water pump intake.
I welded fittings on to the tstat housing. left side fitting is to the intake of rear cooler. and then there is also a fitting on the bottom of the tstat that is the bypass loop back to that "T" fitting
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Thankyou for the write up & pics. My concern with deleting the front cooler is that my rear cooler is only 7 ft of extrusion. I don't want to spend money on additional extrusion and I'm not sure if just my rear cooler alone would be enough? I have some extrusion scraps and thought about adding a second smaller one under the seat but then there's added complexity & weight. Maybe I'll take another look. Deleting the front cooler is by far the easiest way to go if I can gain cooling somewhere else.
kennyspec
Expert
this is what I used. it has more fins on the outside and inside so it adds a lot of surface area for cooling. probably more efficient than the cooler you have.
http://crracingcanada.com/main/sled/hardware-raw-materials/u-cooler-extrusion-60-lengths.html
I still would ditch the front cooler. I did and have no problem with overheating and I have no where near the snow you do. I will measure the length of mine to see exactly how big it is. if it works on mine it should work even better on yours. what if you ran three passes of the cooler? inlet would be on the front of pass number one and the exit would be at the back of pass number 3 but just run a 3/4 alum tube back up to the front. I think the benefits really outweigh the cons of building a new cooler.
http://crracingcanada.com/main/sled/hardware-raw-materials/u-cooler-extrusion-60-lengths.html
I still would ditch the front cooler. I did and have no problem with overheating and I have no where near the snow you do. I will measure the length of mine to see exactly how big it is. if it works on mine it should work even better on yours. what if you ran three passes of the cooler? inlet would be on the front of pass number one and the exit would be at the back of pass number 3 but just run a 3/4 alum tube back up to the front. I think the benefits really outweigh the cons of building a new cooler.
Last edited:
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I could look at adding a 3rd pass. I'm using CMX extrusion, it has fins on the inside like CR. I've got scraps of both. CR has a few more external fins otherwise they're the same.
CMX top, CR bottom.
CMX top, CR bottom.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Welds all ground down and 3/16 marked out on each side.
All trimmed and ready to go.
Much cleaner. Next step is putting the motor and subframe back together to get the cooler positioned.
All trimmed and ready to go.
Much cleaner. Next step is putting the motor and subframe back together to get the cooler positioned.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I'll probably just keep the front cooler for this sled since it's not costing me anything but time. However, if I build a full tube chassis someday I'll definitely just build a larger rear heat exchanger.
kinger
VIP Member
Anyone ever think about a radiator out back and no heat exchanger? I may want to make a trike out of mine for use in the summer 
.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I would think you'd need a rather larger radiator.
Put the motor and subframe back in to get the cooler positioned. Marked out its final resting place so now I'm going to pull the subframe and motor back off so I can weld it up. Ended up with 3.1875" clearance at the tightest spot on the cooler.
Put the motor and subframe back in to get the cooler positioned. Marked out its final resting place so now I'm going to pull the subframe and motor back off so I can weld it up. Ended up with 3.1875" clearance at the tightest spot on the cooler.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
This is going to be a long post.
I haven't welded the cooler yet because i was getting my chassis squared up the last few days and I've got something going on with my jackshaft I'm trying to sort out. There is a very small amount of bind.
There are no Yamaha specifications on what the frame width should be. I've read 16-1/2, 16-5/8 and others. My front cooler was 16-9/16 wide as was the stock tunnel block off plate, so that's what I'm going off of.
My rear suspension rear arm crosshaft was already the correct length. I installed threaded rod at the front arm location, top back of the subframe(through the 4130 tubes), top front of the subframe, and bottom of the subframe through the cooler. I also made an engine spacer. Everything is adjusted and tight so there's exactly 16-9/16" between the diecast sides everywhere I'm able to measure. With the driveshaft and jackshaft installed, everything appears to match and be parallel with each other every which way I look at it and eye ball things.
With the driveshaft installed and the gear tightened(clutch side bearing set screws loose), I have about 3/32 of driveshaft exposed before the speedo gear, which from searching google images looks about right.
So now for the strange part. My jackshaft installs incredibly easy, slides right in without any effort whatsoever. With it just pushed against the diecast side there is no bind, but the bearing block doesn't sit flush, there's a .025 gap at the rear hole. I did turn the bearing block 180 degrees and it was the same. If I put the bolts in and tighten it down, you can definitely tell it binds. Now it's not much, but it is there and I had a buddy confirm I'm not nuts.
I made a crude shim out of .025 stainless.
With the shim installed and bolts tight, the jackshaft has zero bind.
I'm kind of stumped. I'm confident the diecast sides and tunnel are straight as can be. I think at this point I'm going to weld the cooler, build the block off plate and call it good. When I get to final assembly(however many months down the road), I'll install new bearings and shim the bearing block as pictured.
I can't come up with a reason for what it's doing, aside from maybe it had always been that way and I just never noticed.
Any thoughts or ideas are welcome.
I haven't welded the cooler yet because i was getting my chassis squared up the last few days and I've got something going on with my jackshaft I'm trying to sort out. There is a very small amount of bind.
There are no Yamaha specifications on what the frame width should be. I've read 16-1/2, 16-5/8 and others. My front cooler was 16-9/16 wide as was the stock tunnel block off plate, so that's what I'm going off of.
My rear suspension rear arm crosshaft was already the correct length. I installed threaded rod at the front arm location, top back of the subframe(through the 4130 tubes), top front of the subframe, and bottom of the subframe through the cooler. I also made an engine spacer. Everything is adjusted and tight so there's exactly 16-9/16" between the diecast sides everywhere I'm able to measure. With the driveshaft and jackshaft installed, everything appears to match and be parallel with each other every which way I look at it and eye ball things.
With the driveshaft installed and the gear tightened(clutch side bearing set screws loose), I have about 3/32 of driveshaft exposed before the speedo gear, which from searching google images looks about right.
So now for the strange part. My jackshaft installs incredibly easy, slides right in without any effort whatsoever. With it just pushed against the diecast side there is no bind, but the bearing block doesn't sit flush, there's a .025 gap at the rear hole. I did turn the bearing block 180 degrees and it was the same. If I put the bolts in and tighten it down, you can definitely tell it binds. Now it's not much, but it is there and I had a buddy confirm I'm not nuts.
I made a crude shim out of .025 stainless.
With the shim installed and bolts tight, the jackshaft has zero bind.
I'm kind of stumped. I'm confident the diecast sides and tunnel are straight as can be. I think at this point I'm going to weld the cooler, build the block off plate and call it good. When I get to final assembly(however many months down the road), I'll install new bearings and shim the bearing block as pictured.
I can't come up with a reason for what it's doing, aside from maybe it had always been that way and I just never noticed.
Any thoughts or ideas are welcome.
kinger
VIP Member
Bent bearing block See that was easy...proceed
See that was easy...proceed 