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2012 AK sled build

I also think its the cast side that is a bit warped
Could it be tension in it that releases when drilling and cutting in it ?
Those angled corners may stiffen it up or force it out a bit when attached to the stock tunnel, i dont know im just speculating :)
 

I don't think there is anyway that diecast part could warp enough that its .02" within a 2" hole. I think its either the bearing or the plate. Checking question when you say 'bind' what does that mean? The jackshaft is sitting in the bearing and it still spins freely correct? I feel like that is normal tolerance and it makes no difference on the function of the drivetrain alignment. Props to you for finding it but how did you notice the bind? Does the jackshaft actually get harder to turn?
 
By bind, I mean slightly harder to turn. It turns fine without the shim, but there's no question it's better with it in.

I've been trying to pay close attention to make sure everything is straight and it was just something I decided to check. Checking shaft alignment, gear alignment ect before I weld the cooler and build the top plate.
 
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So the bind might be due to the outer bearing race getting pulled off-center when you tighten up the bearing block (without the shim)? ... and with the shim in place, there is no off-centering torque on the outer race to cause the jackshaft to bind? is that your assesssment? If so, something is not letting that bearing block sit flat against the die-cast delta box. Did you mic the thickness of the bearing block? How about the recess for the bearing ... could it be out-of-round or have uneven shoulder depth? In any event, I think you're smart to add the shim, as it will prevent premature bearing failure and possible uneven jackshaft wear. I'm sure you know that when you weld the cooler you're bound to have some distortion anyway. Great build BTW. I wish I was able to do what you do.
 
I'm going to weld the cooler with it inside the diecast with everything secured the way it is now. I'm hoping between that and letting it cool often, it will keep warping to a minimum.

I have checked the bearing block and it appears to be ok. The diecast side has some small variances throughout but it's hard to measure accurately.

I'm going to go ahead and weld the cooler up, build the top block off plate and call it good. At final assembly I will install a new bearing block & bearing and if it's still off then I'll shim it.

I appreciate the input from everyone.
 
Cooler is in its final position and ready to weld. I dropped it 1/16 from where it was so the upper front sides would be flush with the 3/16 pieces. By doing this I'm hoping I won't have to grind any of the weld.
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If it is the bearing or the block then it would move the gap to the other side when turning it 180.
its probably within factory tolerances, but i would add the shim.
 
I have same thing going on with my nytro front cooler, 3" needs to be fitted in. Is it necessary to make space for engine/starter that way to fit 3" or does it fit if only moved forward to nearly touch those parts you have cutted away? Really nice workmanship again, fitting looks really good. :Rockon:
 
What drivers, 7 tooth ?


Jakelfin said:
I have same thing going on with my nytro front cooler, 3" needs to be fitted in. Is it necessary to make space for engine/starter that way to fit 3" or does it fit if only moved forward to nearly touch those parts you have cutted away? Really nice workmanship again, fitting looks really good. :Rockon:
Click to expand...
 
7 yes, took about 1mm away from diameter to make drivers straight, so I have about 0,5mm more space... Thinking to leave whole cooler away, but it is so center of all and effective, so it would be stupidity to gain more weight to put large rear cooler or so.. This is very interesting project which has given me lot of inspiration to keep my nytro still rideable.
 
Jakelfin said:
I have same thing going on with my nytro front cooler, 3" needs to be fitted in. Is it necessary to make space for engine/starter that way to fit 3" or does it fit if only moved forward to nearly touch those parts you have cutted away? Really nice workmanship again, fitting looks really good. :Rockon:
Click to expand...

It's the top half of the cooler that's the issue. If you look at CR Racing and Terra Alps, they both cut off the top portion of the cooler and weld a piece of plate in its place. I don't think you'd fit a 3" track without notching for the starter or cutting the top half off.
 
Cooler is looking good. Sorry for the delayed reply Nikolai but I measured my cooler tonight 28" long. Total of 4 passes in series. So total length is 112". A fair bit more than your rear cooler.
 
So there might be real trouble to fit 3.2" track... :D Ok, I have to do notching too, luckily I didn't even expected this would be just drill'n riveting thing. Upper half was tightest spot. Need to check if I have some other front coolers to fit in, never know what comes up when checking garage junks.

Lähetetty minun E2303 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
 
So I spent all day welding the front cooler. I tried to weld it in the diecast sides and even preheating it with an acetylene torch my welder didn't have enough juice. The diecast was just too much of a heat soak. I welded as much as could then pulled the cooler out, ground all the welds out about 75% and welded over them again with it on the bench. It came out pretty good. A little warped but not bad. Then I get to the starter notch and welded that piece in and it warped the cooler. Bad enough that it wants to twist the diecast sides when I bolt it in.

Depressing. Not sure what I'm going to do now.
 
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