kinger
VIP Member
So would you cut out the current tube from the shock above the taped tube?
Isn't the angle of the tube coming from the shock to the rest of the chassis important? The more angle you add the more the chassis will want to twist and pivot as you decrease the leverage correct? Maybe I'm not following you.
Isn't the angle of the tube coming from the shock to the rest of the chassis important? The more angle you add the more the chassis will want to twist and pivot as you decrease the leverage correct? Maybe I'm not following you.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
It is important, and it would have to change. I thought I could run a new straight tube a little higher up on the hoop then run one off that down towards where the bent tube would rivet to the diecast. Ive got some other ideas I'll draw up.
On another note, I bought a used set of Walker Evans air shocks off Snowest and had them shipped to Fastrax. Fastrax got them this morning, rebuilt them and got them boxed up same day. How's that for service!
On another note, I bought a used set of Walker Evans air shocks off Snowest and had them shipped to Fastrax. Fastrax got them this morning, rebuilt them and got them boxed up same day. How's that for service!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Cut up my extra die cast side. Still heavy even cut up. I also don't think it's going to work and be a big pain to modify it and redo the tubework. So that idea is officially scrapped. There's just no point in modifying it any more, better off building a full tube chassis.
So now I'm back to using the front cooler I made and continuing on. Sometimes I feel like I'm in an abusive relationship with my sled
So now I'm back to using the front cooler I made and continuing on. Sometimes I feel like I'm in an abusive relationship with my sled
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Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Had a pretty productive weekend. Got the cooler cleaned up, straightened a little more and in place. Used some 2" washers to mimic the motor mounts for building the block off.
My original plan was to build an entirely new one piece block off plate but decided for the sake of riding before 2018 I'd reuse the piece with the holes in it. It was made from .050 2024.
I flared the header holes and cleaned it up a bit.
I'll be running a 1/2 .035 tube from side to side(below the threaded rod) to keep the bulkhead at 16-9/16 and help keep it from twisting. Since the block off plate doesn't need to provide any kind of support I used some extra .032 5052 I had. Plus it cuts easy with tin snips. Made a practice piece then used the second one, finished weight was only .52 lbs.
Clecod in place
Just clears the washers and jackshaft.
I cut the plate as close as I could to the diecast sides. I'm not sure what other people have done as far as leaving the gaps open or filling with silicone/foam.
My original plan was to build an entirely new one piece block off plate but decided for the sake of riding before 2018 I'd reuse the piece with the holes in it. It was made from .050 2024.
I flared the header holes and cleaned it up a bit.
I'll be running a 1/2 .035 tube from side to side(below the threaded rod) to keep the bulkhead at 16-9/16 and help keep it from twisting. Since the block off plate doesn't need to provide any kind of support I used some extra .032 5052 I had. Plus it cuts easy with tin snips. Made a practice piece then used the second one, finished weight was only .52 lbs.
Clecod in place
Just clears the washers and jackshaft.
I cut the plate as close as I could to the diecast sides. I'm not sure what other people have done as far as leaving the gaps open or filling with silicone/foam.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Removed the diecast sides to finish the tunnel work.
sxr70001
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2010
- Messages
- 1,130
- Location
- Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Sidewinder LTX SE
SR Viper RTX SE
You do nice work.
Oh come on... You make these great projects and give inspiration.. [emoji4]
And what is aftermath of this project? Just look at my sled now. [emoji12]
Keep on working, you make great job.
And what is aftermath of this project? Just look at my sled now. [emoji12]
Keep on working, you make great job.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Got my WE shocks from Fastrax.
1 lb closer to 400 haha. C to C is 17" which is close to my Floats.
1 lb closer to 400 haha. C to C is 17" which is close to my Floats.
I knew those are light but knowing is power. Those are really simple shocks to rebuild.
I have little bit more to go before shock options.. Just sketching, beef jerky and friday night.
I have little bit more to go before shock options.. Just sketching, beef jerky and friday night.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
They are the lightest shocks available. They didn't get the greatest reviews but for purely a mountain shock I think they'll be ok. Next time they need to be rebuilt I'm going to have the shafts drilled. See if I can get them down around 2.10 lbs.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I knew those are light but knowing is power. Those are really simple shocks to rebuild.
I have little bit more to go before shock options.. Just sketching, beef jerky and friday night.
That looks killer
Is there any titanium shafts available? Can't remember was those allready bored. Just same thoughts of those shocks, those work well even on racing use, but service is needed like after every run.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
From what I've been told they are not bored. The shafts are aluminum, Ti would be heavier.
kinger
VIP Member
For a tunnel I'm considering using carbon fiber plate, water jet out to make the sides and top, then bonding with carbon angle and 3M adhesive that is crazy strong bond. Why don't you guys want to look into that, seems SO simple compared to 4130 bending, notching, welding, coating? To simplify it further replicate the viper two piece tunnel and replacing the rear piece with the 3lb 153 Patrick Customs carbon fiber tunnel half. So the plates and tops would be about $700-900 in material, and that TJ part is $750. Less then most aftermarket tunnels. I only worry about the bolt holes in the sides ovaling out and trying to figure out a running board. On paper shows about 12lbs total for the entire tunnel vs the 4130 tubes at 25+lbs