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2012 AK sled build


I've been randomly checking in on this thread and I must say, very impressive! I will be running the same skid this year in my xtx. What track did you decide to go with?

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No progress, been finishing up some other projects.

I went with the 155x15x1.6 series 6 Polaris track, strictly for its low weight.
 
Oops, should have been 2.6. A few on Snowest weighed them at 46 lbs.

Got the other side all bolted up, ski stance will be 36.75". Got the tie rod length figured out, tomorrow I'll tack the tube adapters in and start figuring out the steering arm.

 
I got the same CR front last month, great looking welds Chad does. Like the 5/8 helm joint the kit uses.
 
kinger said:
What does that track weigh? Do you have a recent weight on your entire sled?


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I don't have any kind of recent weight, I won't have one until it's finished. That being said, once everything is stripped backed down & finishing touches & paint are done I'm going to weigh everything as I assemble the sled for the final time.
 
I'm having a hard time matching factory geometry without modifying the subframe. So I need some input from fellow TYers. The issue is I cannot get the inner rod ends low enough withough hitting the 3/4 upright tubes when turned all the way. It's close, but not perfect and I want my steering to be spot on.

Here's my thought process.

I setup my Dewalt laser and got my spare subframe angled so the laser runs through the center of the lower a-arm bolt holes. From the laser to the center of the factory inner tie rod end is about 1".



Moving the outer rod end on top of the spindle mount raises the center distance about 1.25"


So I angle my sled on the table until I could again run the laser through the lower a-arm mounting holes. We have 1" c to c from the oem setup and another 1.25" from raising the rod ends. So in theory, if I build my steering arm so the inner rod ends are 2.25" from center of lower a-arm mounting hole to center of inner rod end, I should end up with factory geometry or dang close.




At full lock with the spindle hitting the a-arm I just clear the 3/4" tubes now.



Raising the outer tie rod ends solves my issues and from what I can tell so far cycling the suspension, it seems pretty spot on. Before I commit to this, is there anything I'm missing as to why this wouldn't work?

I do know that it's ugly but once the sled is done and on the snow I'll build some 4130 spindles with the tie rod mounts relocated so it looks like it's meant to be haha.
 
How does moving that tie rod change the Caster or Camber during cycling? Any? I don't think it should but that would be my only concern. Otherwise I think what you did makes a lot of sense. Checking question is the factory geometry ideal? Would it be worth comparing it to a pro steering as a improvement? Glad your back at it!!!
 
I think what you are doing makes total sense. It shouldn't change caster or camber, that is controlled by the a arms. If anything it would change the toe as it cycles. If you set the tie rods to zero toe and mounted your lazer on the front the of the spindle to point it at the other spindle you would easily be able to see if the toe changes as you cycle both susp arms up and down.
 
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