2012 Yamaha Nytro will not accelerate over 45mph!

Also not starting cause cable is way to tight and engine is trying to start with throttle open so won't. So loosen the cable there needs to be play

Ok I will give that a shot. Thank you. Would this also effect the idle? It seams as if it’s idling low also
 
Ok I will give that a shot. Thank you. Would this also effect the idle? It seams as if it’s idling low also[/ I agree with GRIzz if it may not be your cable it may be a position sensor but rule out one item at a time.
I agree with GRIzz just keep ruling out one thing out at a time it may not be your cable it may be something else. But rule out cable first. We know it's ToRS so it can only be a few things. I would also jump onto grizz link and run diagnotic mode.
 
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I ended up taking this to a dealer. They said it was the throttle position sensor. They changed it out with new. I got it back and road it for a half hour an it ran great. Then it started acting up again. It would just die while I was going about 45 mph. So I would re start it take off and it would die again the. Started flashing several codes. 84,25,15 then 10 and 13 a few times. I barely got it home. Please help




I agree with GRIzz just keep ruling out one thing out at a time it may not be your cable it may be something else. But rule out cable first. We know it's ToRS so it can only be a few things. I would also jump onto grizz link and run diagnotic mode.
 
I ended up taking this to a dealer. They said it was the throttle position sensor. They changed it out with new. I got it back and road it for a half hour an it ran great. Then it started acting up again. It would just die while I was going about 45 mph. So I would re start it take off and it would die again the. Started flashing several codes. 84,25,15 then 10 and 13 a few times. I barely got it home. Please help
Find a new dealer brotato chip. Looks like ToRS, position sensor, blown fuse, intake sensors. Assume your blowing fuses or some wires are f'd
 
With all that going on it sounds like you've got a bad spot in the wiring harness. You need to inspect it very well under the steering post and along the left side behind the primary clutch for rub through. If there is nothing found it's possible the ECU is failing. Sounds like the dealer is just changing parts and hoping for the best instead of actually testing the components. I'd want proof that sensor was bad.
 
With all that going on it sounds like you've got a bad spot in the wiring harness. You need to inspect it very well under the steering post and along the left side behind the primary clutch for rub through. If there is nothing found it's possible the ECU is failing. Sounds like the dealer is just changing parts and hoping for the best instead of actually testing the components. I'd want proof that sensor was bad.
I will check this wiring closely. why would it run good for a half hour then not? Something possibly getting wet and shorting?
 
The wiring has been a common problem when there are multiple system errors at the same time and usually it's found in a couple of the typical rub areas in the chassis. I've also seen wire splices in the harness come apart which requires opening up the harness to inspect them. If you know anyone with a Nytro you could do an ECU swap to eliminate the ECU as the problem.

I also read of someone have strange engine issue were it also would not accelerate and it ended up being the Crank sensor
 
So it ended up being a bad electrical plug in the wiring harness up by he cigarette lighter..

Now I’m having another problem wonder if you guys can help.. it feels as if the belt or clutch is slipping... I will be running along at 65 or 70 and it feels like the belt isn’t engaging and the motor redlines.. then it kicks back in.. I took the cover off and it smells like belt was burning. And there was black resadue everywhere, I changed the belt and it’s still doing it? Any one know what this is?
 
check the normal clutch components, rollers, weights, springs and clean if necessary. I'd also check the jackshaft and lower drive bearing for grease. Lift the sled and see if you can roll the track by hand to make sure it's spinning freely.
 


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