rsolom6
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Wanting to know who has the best airbox mod for the apex? Did a search in both google and here. Found some info. on older models only. Can anyone give any info on this regarding air box only modification and results? Made a couple calls to a few dealers who have Ulmers and D&D. They all want to sell you the PCV, Ulmers clutch kit and the airbox. Wanted to steer from the other mods for now. Thanks
titanrcr
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Your apex is already very lean at WOT. Doing an air box only mod might cause reduced performance or even damage the engine although it should pull back timing to protect itself. First mod should be the power commander and then you can go with an airbox mod. May as well do both together.
MarkRTX
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Agree totally first thing I did to mine. Then did the air box mod other than Ulmers clutching which I had the kit already from my previous Apex thats all I have for mods and mine hauls a$$ period!
ranger1
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What are you looking to gain with the airbox mod, performance, better sound?
I installed the "ram air lid" on my 07 RTX last year & did not notice any performance difference with just the air lid mod. As for the sound, it sounded kinda funny. The sound comes from the opened air box & not the exhaust!
Ulmers mod I think modifies the lower part of the box.
I now have an excell exhaust & no air box mod, sounds awesome but still no performance gains. The only way to utilize any of these mods you pretty much need to add a fuel controller.
I installed the "ram air lid" on my 07 RTX last year & did not notice any performance difference with just the air lid mod. As for the sound, it sounded kinda funny. The sound comes from the opened air box & not the exhaust!
Ulmers mod I think modifies the lower part of the box.
I now have an excell exhaust & no air box mod, sounds awesome but still no performance gains. The only way to utilize any of these mods you pretty much need to add a fuel controller.
vanstone
Veteran
I did Ulmers package in total (air box, PCV and clutching). Clearly a big improvment ( Four sled lengths). I would highly recommend Ulmer. Improves drivability significantly.
rsolom6
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Looking for more on top end. I thought i read where the air box adds 5 mph up top top. i think one of the members here indicated just the airbox mod is a big improvement to the newer apexes.
UP Michigan rider
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"Your apex is already very lean at WOT"
This is very true as more and more environmental laws are bearing down on snowmobile manufactures. I also think that being very lean is also a contributing factor as to why the apex engine is prone to overheating. For example, a small airplane has a manual lean or "mixture". If you lean too much you can overheat your airplane engine. You have to "add more fuel" to cool down the engine. Also I have a new Honda 5hp outboard motor that is guaranteed “environmental complaint" for the next 5 years. It can be hard to start. When I took it into the dealer to have it checked out, he said thank California environmental laws because the engines now have to run so lean therefore the jets in the carbs are micro small and can clog easy. He knows of people outfitting bigger carburetors just to get some fuel to the engine.
So thank California for all our environmental crap even though 1 volcanic eruption spews out more junk then all the cars that have ever been on the road.
This is very true as more and more environmental laws are bearing down on snowmobile manufactures. I also think that being very lean is also a contributing factor as to why the apex engine is prone to overheating. For example, a small airplane has a manual lean or "mixture". If you lean too much you can overheat your airplane engine. You have to "add more fuel" to cool down the engine. Also I have a new Honda 5hp outboard motor that is guaranteed “environmental complaint" for the next 5 years. It can be hard to start. When I took it into the dealer to have it checked out, he said thank California environmental laws because the engines now have to run so lean therefore the jets in the carbs are micro small and can clog easy. He knows of people outfitting bigger carburetors just to get some fuel to the engine.
So thank California for all our environmental crap even though 1 volcanic eruption spews out more junk then all the cars that have ever been on the road.
UP Michigan rider
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1 more thing, isn't the APEX just about the fastest sled out there (116 MPH 160 HP) and you want more top end? Basically you have a R1 motorcycle sport bike "racing" engine in your sled. Geez man how much faster do you want to go. Just saying. Personally I wouldn't mess with it, the Japanese are pretty smart when it comes to engineering and have been making Yamaha 2 stroke and 4 stroke motorcycle engines for a few years now. I know it can be fun to mod but I would put money down that you would end up getting less power.
02ViperMody44
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titanrcr said:
What he said.
Before adding more air, make sure you add more fuel. (PCV)
sx7001
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rsolom6 said:
UP Michigan rider
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Most common Air/fuel ratio range for petrol(gas):
10:1(Very rich)-High concentration of fuel in the air/fuel mixture
11:1
12:1
12.8-13:1(Rich)-this region is typically where you will see a bike make the best peak horsepower(100% throttle, high RPM). (13 parts of air and 1 part of fuel)
14:1 E.P.A. regulations air fuel ratio to 14:1
14.7:1(Stoich AFR for gasoline)-this is the AFR that your bike will run when it is using the oxygen sensor(low throttle, low RPM). It is the "cleanest" burn for emissions.
15:1(Lean)
16:1
17:1
18:1(Very lean)-Low concentration of fuel in the air/fuel mixture
Also keep in mind "octaine rating" has nothing to do with the "explosive power" or "energy" of gasoline.
Most people know that an increase in Compression Ratio will require an increase in fuel octane for the same engine design. Once you have identified the fuel that keeps the engine at optimum settings, there is NO advantage whatsoever in moving to an even higher octane fuel.
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10:1(Very rich)-High concentration of fuel in the air/fuel mixture
11:1
12:1
12.8-13:1(Rich)-this region is typically where you will see a bike make the best peak horsepower(100% throttle, high RPM). (13 parts of air and 1 part of fuel)
14:1 E.P.A. regulations air fuel ratio to 14:1
14.7:1(Stoich AFR for gasoline)-this is the AFR that your bike will run when it is using the oxygen sensor(low throttle, low RPM). It is the "cleanest" burn for emissions.
15:1(Lean)
16:1
17:1
18:1(Very lean)-Low concentration of fuel in the air/fuel mixture
Also keep in mind "octaine rating" has nothing to do with the "explosive power" or "energy" of gasoline.
Most people know that an increase in Compression Ratio will require an increase in fuel octane for the same engine design. Once you have identified the fuel that keeps the engine at optimum settings, there is NO advantage whatsoever in moving to an even higher octane fuel..
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