2013 Apex mcx 200 kit question ?

[mbarryracing]

I was pretty sure that the MCX kit used one to control boost for altitude changes, increases boost with an increase in elevation for consistent power.
The Fail Safe gauge would have to also have a way to electronically limit the boost pressure with a solenoid, if it's even hooked up and not just being used for a standard boost gauge...
Trace the wires...

 

[full tilt viper]

Yes that's the next step , thanks

 

[full tilt viper]

Alarm triggers don’t seem to be hooked up
. I would like to get the most out of this gauge it has some cool features . What would be the best and easiest way to safe a bad running situation. ? Here is what I discovered

 

[full tilt viper]

The Afr works well , boost works and the alarm flash feature works and I can connect my laptop to control when the alarm will go off . It just flashes and doesn’t actually do anything

 

[mbarryracing]

According to the AEM Website...
"The gauge’s failsafe strategy is completely user definable, from something as simple as making the gauge flash to using the ground output to trigger a check engine light, to cut boost, retard timing, or even switch to a safety map using a standalone engine management system."

• One low-side driver output (Ground with 1.5 amp max draw)

To me that tells me you can configure it so that when your custom defined alarm goes off the GROUND can be activated, which can control a boost solenoid (not included)...
So the solenoid positive lead would have to be hot all the time and the Failsafe Gauge would trigger the ground. The solenoid would have to be plumbed so that when it's turned on that the boost pressure flows 100% to the wastegate actuator and that will put the sled to minimum boost level that the turbo wastegate setup will provide.
Since you already have one on the sled that the MCX system controls, that gets a little more complicated, but still do-able. Depending on how the current solenoid is plumbed and wired, you could utilize that same one as a dual function. If it's wired the same (positive hot, ground switched) you wouldn't have to put diodes in the leads to prevent back feeding voltage into the MCX box or the AEM gauge. Then have to determine how it's plumbed, when it dumps boost to the bleed port and to the actuator.

NOTE: If you have to install a second separate solenoid, you absolutely have to make sure it's plumbed such that when the Failsafe alarm activates and energizes it's dedicated solenoid that the boost pressure doesn't back feed out the bleed port of the MCX controlled solenoid and doing nothing, and visa versa. You might have to get creative with some automotive emission system vacuum line one-way check valves from a auto parts store.

With patience and some ingenuity, it can be done.

I incorporated an electronic boost solenoid on my Apex, controlled by the Motec and "Medusa" plumbed i n so that under a specified % throttle the solenoid directs 100% boost pressure to my wastegate actuator for running on minimum boost and the anything over that throttle setting it switches and it goes all through my Hallman Pro manual boost controller so I can custom adjust while riding depending on the conditions (or whom i am riding with). The Motec is totally capable of being programmed to control boost completely with the solenoid, but then I'd lose the manual adjusting capability.

 

[full tilt viper]

Thanks for all your input wow ! I'm thinking because I'm only running 5.5 lbs and it runs so well that all this extra work may not be worth it . When it alarms I back off . Every time over the years when I push the boost # I get into trouble, It's pretty darn quick for 200 kit. I can figure most things out but I'm running out of time and need to get it back together. I've learned a lot about this new sled by taking everything apart like I always do and going through the entire sled. Many little things were fixed cleaned up . Now I know exactly what I have. As a starting point I set the waist gate rod tension at 2 turns in from fully closed. I also decided to change the gearing just a bit . The clutched are machined for overdrive and it came with 23\37 1.60 68L. I had a 39 bottom and 24T which rolls a lot better in the chain case. That ratio is 1.62 , I almost put in the 23/39 =1.69 because it's a trail sled only never run it over 110 . Heavily studded 1 1/4 track at 129" . Always remember MrViper700 from back in the day say that 1.70 is ideal for trail , 1.60 from lake , thoughts anyone ?

 

[mbarryracing]

I tend to agree with you about leaving it the way it is. If you are savvy enough to back off the throttle when the alarm flashed in your face, that should suffice. Heck, the factory Viper MPI turbo's didn't even come with a boost gauge...

There are a few different schools of thought on gearing for these 4 strokes with a turbo, different than for 2-strokes. I have been told to gear up so take advantage of the increased torque and push the heavy sled faster. It tends not to blitz the track as much, reducing spin and actually increasing acceleration. Like a Top Fuel dragster...

I still have my old grass drag race mentality of gearing it right down for trail, but then traction becomes a major factor of effectiveness. Lower gearing will put more power to the track all day long, but I humbly have been shown that doesn't always directly correlate to being quicker in the snow.
As I get older (and growing tired of fixing things) I don't ride as aggressively as I used to, so I don't need bite in every condition to stay out front anymore. I'm sick of bending or tearing out studs, which is hard to avoid with 100% increase in HP, so I ditched my heavy 1.25" fully aggressively studded Ripsaw II track for a lighter pre-studded 136" x 1.22" Ice Attak XT 9209H, it was the right choice because the sled is lighter and hooks up surprisingly well and is actually quicker on groomed trails that it only ever gets ridden on. I just have to be more selective when I wick the throttle all the way open.

I am currently adjusted for around 8 lbs of boost for cruising on the trails part throttle and then 16 lbs at WOT when I want it. I rarely run mine up past 110 mph either (especially if you have a lot of centrifugal weight from studs) , the exception is an occasional rip down a lake but that is not why I built it and prefer "pull your arms out snappy" on the trails. I currently am running the stock Apex GT gearing 24 / 38 1.58:1 , but have continuously been told to gear up to 25/38 1.52:1 which doesn't seem like much difference but unless that will reduce track spin and make it even quicker, I'm not sure I want to potentially risk any bottom end response for a gain in top speed that I don't use.

 

[full tilt viper]

Hey all makes sense . We're close on gearing 1.58 but you have a lot more power. I'm gonna try 1.62, I can always go back to stock 24/37 1.54 easy change if needed.