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#3 look crispy to you?!?!

how does one verify TDC on each cylinder? UGH & sorry
Once the hose is attatched to the cylinder and tool, apply about 10lbs pressure(on the one guage). Turn the clutch the same way the engine turns and the other guage will start to rise up in pressure. You will need a good prybar properly placed through the clutch or a proper tool on the clutch bolt(not ratchet). You will continue to turn the clutch a bit more but don't come by TDC. If you still have the valve cover off, you will have a good idea where the piston is by the lobe positioning.
A very good engine will read 98%
In most cases over 90% indicates things are probably good.
 

Once the hose is attatched to the cylinder and tool, apply about 10lbs pressure(on the one guage). Turn the clutch the same way the engine turns and the other guage will start to rise up in pressure. You will need a good prybar properly placed through the clutch or a proper tool on the clutch bolt(not ratchet). You will continue to turn the clutch a bit more but don't come by TDC. If you still have the valve cover off, you will have a good idea where the piston is by the lobe positioning.
A very good engine will read 98%
In most cases over 90% indicates things are probably good.
I understand what your saying. But my valve cover is still on.
Is there any other way?
 
When changing plugs, do compression test. You can shine light down hole with plugs out or put thin coathanger or screwdriver down hole to see when piston is TDC. Make sure not 180 degrees off.
 
It had been suggested if I had a bad head gasket to pressurize the cooling system and if it's not leaking externally it's leaking internally. I would possibly see air bubbles coming back through the recovery tank. In 1 hour the gauge is down over a pound. But I'm chasing more external leaks now. Very inconclusive
IMG_20220305_093745237_copy_1536x2048.jpg
 
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It had been suggested if I had a bad head gasket to pressurize the cooling system and if it's not leaking externally it's leaking internally. I would possibly see air bubbles coming back through the recovery tank. In 5 minutes the gauge is down 1/10 of a pound no air bubbles in the recovery tank
View attachment 166803
if it was a head gasket you would be pushing coolant. Likely the water pump failed if it’s overheating like that.
 
if it was a head gasket you would be pushing coolant. Likely the water pump failed if it’s overheating like that.

I suppose it wouldn't hurt to replace both the water pump and thermostat. I just wanted to verify the head gaskets integrity, so I don't start the season on a sour note next year.
Thanks, Phil
 
if it was a head gasket you would be pushing coolant. Likely the water pump failed if it’s overheating like that.
Think it would go 4-5 miles without pumping?
Anytime I've seen pump failure on any engine, you don't get very far at all and they're boiling over.
 
Think it would go 4-5 miles without pumping?
Anytime I've seen pump failure on any engine, you don't get very far at all and they're boiling over.
I’ve never had a water pump fail, but seems like it would take a few minutes to overheat. Some coolant is likely circulating, just not enough.
 
Think it would go 4-5 miles without pumping?
Anytime I've seen pump failure on any engine, you don't get very far at all and they're boiling over.
I've heard similar. When the pump lets loose it lets loose and you don't get very far. But I've had others suggest other situations where the vein was still attached to the shaft trying to do something.
I'm definitely running 15° warmer than average
 
When my pump failed on the trail the engine got hot enough to go into safe mode and reduced rpm's. It went up in a cloud of smoke from coolant running out weep hole. I stopped and had it towed in.
Pump was replaced and engine was fine.
 


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