Port-Parts
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Yes - we definitely have been running the Slim Jim versions on the C&A and Curve skis - I believe the reason the steering becomes much lighter on hardpack (which is where you get most complaints on those skis for heavier steering feel) is that when on hardpack snow due to the height of the Slim Jim (roughly 3/4-1") it lifts the keel off the snow and now are only turning roughly 10" of Slim Jim material (of which the carbide is directly centered on so steering stays precise) vs. turning the entire length of the keel across that hardpack snow. Then when you encounter looser snow the Slim Jims drop through the snow and puts the ski keel back in contact with the snow providing the precise handling these skis provide. Check out the attached pics of a Slim Jim carbide on this C&A XTX ski as it may help put this combination in better perspective.
**sj**
Lifetime Member
that makes total sense....I suppose the same would hold true with the new xcs as well making it less aggressive when not wanted ; )
Port-Parts
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Definitely - the cool thing though is that even while it is making it less aggressive on hardpack it still turns well on hardpack as all the machines front end weight is being directly focused on the carbides (as opposed to being spread across the entire keel length)that makes total sense....I suppose the same would hold true with the new xcs as well making it less aggressive when not wanted ; )
marathon mike
Pro
Is there any concenus on how much or which size slim jim to use. I run a prestudded track and was thinking the 6" version or would the 8,s be better without significant more effort.
Thanks for any input
Thanks for any input
Bigbluemachine
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I think skis really depend more on the rider, rider weight, set up and how those issues make the sled react. I found Curves to work really well and used them on my RX 1 for years. But when I really pushed the self to the limits they did push a little, controllable but nevertheless. The dual keel skis and runners always seemed to pack up up snow and and push way to much for me. But then again I am a very heavy, aggressive rider. For me the C&A razors were great. Very predictable and confidence inspiring. Never felt to hard to steer( i do have power steering) and I could push the limits and stick. I will install in the sidewinder, with the thought that my set up and weight will counter act the aggressiveness just right. We'll see.
Port-Parts
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Just to clarify that your prestudded track is the Camoplast ICE type series track with the small studs molded directly into the lug? If so I would think the 6" version of that carbide would be what the majority would run.Is there any concenus on how much or which size slim jim to use. I run a prestudded track and was thinking the 6" version or would the 8,s be better without significant more effort.
Thanks for any input
In the world of carbide/studs each rider always has a comfort zone of what they feel works best and makes them feel the most comfortable on the trail. I have customers that will swear that 4" would be all that you need for that set-up and others that would swear for 8" - it always really comes down to the rider and their comfort level/confidence/ability of what they are looking for and how they ride (conditions also play a part of the whole equation as well). If the rider is a very casual trail rider and doesn't push the limits while cornering the 4" would work just fine for them and on the other hand if the guy rode like his hair was on fire he may feel more comfortable choosing the 8" - For the majority though with that prestudded track I think 6" would be the best fit.
marathon mike
Pro
Thanks for your input
Mike
Mike
Doowithblue
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When I look at the Curves underneath I scratch my head wondering how they turn so well. But they get great reviews! Aren't the tuner 3s all new for 17? Just curious who has tested these. So many questions........
Port-Parts
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Tuner 3s were stock on 2016 viper se and le models so quite a few out there already - the keel design is identical to the previous viper tuners with the main differences of the skis being the look of the top of them and the removable handle.Aren't the tuner 3s all new for 17? Just curious who has tested these. So many questions........
krm
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thinking about 4.5" shapers inside and the stk 2" outside to start with .think this will work ??
Doowithblue
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Thx port
AXR
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if they are the same stock that came on the other tuners in the past they won't last 300milesthinking about 4.5" shapers inside and the stk 2" outside to start with .think this will work ??
Port-Parts
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thinking about 4.5" shapers inside and the stk 2" outside to start with .think this will work ??
krm - not sure what sled you are planning to run that combination on but if the sled is not studded and is driven casually that combo should work but just like AXR said be prepared for those stock 2" to wear out quickly - the main problem with the OEM carbides is that the little carbide insert they have is about 1/2 the size of an aftermarket carbide insert and the OEM carbides have no carbide wear pads or hardweld filler on the bar to help increase their durability so they wear out rather quickly. Doesn't mean you can't run them just be prepared to change em out often - on the tuner skis we usually recommend putting an aftermarket (woodys/studboy) 4" carbide on the outside to help get some durability and then run a 4", 6", or 8" on the inside depending on whether the track is studded or not combined with the level of aggressiveness of the rider.if they are the same stock that came on the other tuners in the past they won't last 300miles
hibshman25
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When I look at the Curves underneath I scratch my head wondering how they turn so well. But they get great reviews! Aren't the tuner 3s all new for 17? Just curious who has tested these. So many questions........
It's the concave shape that makes the curve ski turn. The ski funnels loose snow in the front and packs it so ski has an edge to grip.
DSimps10
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I wondered the same thing until i put mine on. the print they leave on the snow looks a lot different that i thought it would, it leaves 3 hard low spots and the 2 (bubbles) like a rounded M if you took a sectional view. the snow definitely packs in the sides and lets the carbide and edges grab well.It's the concave shape that makes the curve ski turn. The ski funnels loose snow in the front and packs it so ski has an edge to grip.
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