Ruggybuggy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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- 2007 Phazer FX 144
Can the 6205 bearing be used to replace the 6005 in the front lower idlers without modification. I was thinking of getting the skidoo wheels but they use the 6205 which has the same bore size of 25mm but the width is wider measuring 13mm and the 6005 is 10mm.
Also is there any benifit of using the torsional spring spacers? I have to replace my upper idler wheels and if it's a "must do" now is the time.
Thanks
Also is there any benifit of using the torsional spring spacers? I have to replace my upper idler wheels and if it's a "must do" now is the time.
Thanks
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
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In the idlers that are not part of the suspension, it can be done. Some use a washer in the hole to fill in the space.
For the spring spacers, some, including myself, have seen the sled sit a bit higher due to getting more preload from the spring. If you can do it, why not? I made my own using ABS pipes, inserting two different sizes into each other.
For the spring spacers, some, including myself, have seen the sled sit a bit higher due to getting more preload from the spring. If you can do it, why not? I made my own using ABS pipes, inserting two different sizes into each other.
In my opinion the more sag the better as long as you dont bottom. Sag=Low C.O.G. it helps handling. Mine sags big time but it rides plush never bottoms and handles awesome. A good rear shock is the key. I love my Custom Axis rear. I have said it many times that it was the single biggest improvement to my sled. Those who have ridden with me have seen the results since they get a good view of the taillight! Save your time and $ and get a good rear shock. Let it sag.
Ruggybuggy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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- 2007 Phazer FX 144
So I talk to Chris at SBM about the idler wheels and this is what he said:
I don't use the 135mm (to big) The cross shaft/center shock bell crank will get bent. The bearings I use are the more robust 6205, thats why we must machine the wheel collors and bell crank for fittment. Look under Phazer suspension (hyfax saver wheel kits). Scroll down to see placements. Hope this helps.
Thank You
Chris @ SBM
Owner/President
Anyone have any bent parts using the 135 mm wheels on the inside?
Thanks Mooseman for the tip on the torsional spring spacers. How did you manage to keep them from contacting the top idler wheels?
I don't use the 135mm (to big) The cross shaft/center shock bell crank will get bent. The bearings I use are the more robust 6205, thats why we must machine the wheel collors and bell crank for fittment. Look under Phazer suspension (hyfax saver wheel kits). Scroll down to see placements. Hope this helps.
Thank You
Chris @ SBM
Owner/President
Anyone have any bent parts using the 135 mm wheels on the inside?
Thanks Mooseman for the tip on the torsional spring spacers. How did you manage to keep them from contacting the top idler wheels?
There is no more pressure on the big wheels vs stock unless you keep the wore slides on that are the reason you use big wheels. Just change the slides when you change the wheels and the pressure on the wheels will be the same or better just use the Dupont slides and there will be less pressure on any of the wheels since they wear way less.
Ruggybuggy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2013
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- 2007 Phazer FX 144
Thanks, that's what I thought. What did you have to do to get the wider 6205 bearings to work?
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