• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

998 engine rebuild

rtx moose said:
Another thread with too much information for %99 of us..datalogging is for serious racing people..nobody needs to worry about the tunes under 280..Posts like these just gets everyone second guessing when there's no need for us %99er's
Click to expand...
You dont have to be a serious racer to datalog your sled. Its for the person who wants to know what is going on and keep tabs on their sled to keep it at 100%. Ive given tons of examples in this thread as to why its a good idea and money well spent.Its not necessary but a valuable tool to have. No need for anyone to second guess anything especially those using 1 of the tuners who utilize the gap platform. This thread shows what can happen under certain circumstances, its not to scare anyone away from tuning their sled.......and that a certain companies knock protection isnt up to snuff apparently.
 

As my posts say, "for those interested". If anyone is not interested, then don't read the post/thread.
I feel that TY is a great site to visit to get great info from very very knowledgeable hard-core sledders who care and love the sport. If I can somehow contribute or assist in any way, that is my goal. I don't pretend to think I know more rhan most of you. This thread is just telling my experiences with the rebuilds I have done or am doing. If anyone doesn't think there's any value, then don't read it.
I'm hoping to contribute to TY in anyway I can.
 
Just got mine back from total rebuild for stage 6, now its leaking oil out or around the mag cover while sitting.
 
Couple thoughts:
1. I would take it back to whoever did it; at least let them know.
2. There is "only" a thin paper composite gasket that seals that mag cover to the engine. I hope they got both the cover and the engine block very clean before they installed cover with new gasket.
3. There are 2 black screws at approx. 12 and 6 o'clock that require thread locker (per the manual). They are in open-ended holes that are exposed to engine oil. The rest of the screws are in blind holes so they won't leak. If they didn't use thread locker on those 2 bolts, they could leak oil.
4. The main oil suction tube is mounted to the cover. There is an o-ring that seals it into hole. I have seen those o-rings leaking before on a few sleds. I've seen the o-ring deformed by poor installation technique. I usually change o-ring to one slightly thicker to get more interference with a tighter seal. Might want to check it. Of course, you'll need to drain oil tank because the suction tube is lower that tank and oil will gush out.
Good luck.
 
thanks, TD is very sorry that its leaking and were going to send mech 5 hours to fix but i ordered gaskets and am doing myself.... ive always smeared a thin layer of silicone or gasket shelack on gaskets no matter where they go... its only insurance of a good seal. the info on the two bolts to put sealant on is good to know , thanks
 
Check o-ring as well. Might want to get new one.
BTW - you're going to need a puller to get that cover off. The inside of the mag cover has the stationary side (coils) of the stator mounted to it. There is tremendous magnetic attraction between the rotating flywheel (mounted to crank) and the stator coils. Once you get all the screws out, the puller (looks like a special bolt) screws into the smaller hole in cover (there's a black plastic plug in this hole), and the end of puller pushes against flywheel to push cover outward and break magnetic force holding it on. If you don't have (or make) a puller, you'll have to insert something between cover and engine block, preferrably plastic or wood so you don't end up damaging the sealing surfaces. Have fun.
 
All spot on.. Been there on this.. I lost a stator and the mag side had to come off. Lots of fun getting it back on! I had some help from clutchmaster on my repair. Good detailed stuff Turboflash.. Lots of magnetic 4 letter words involved. Pretty sure we did it without a puller? / or it was a long bolt that matched the threads, BUT guessing a puller/bolt will make pulling and reinstalling a lot easier, with the magnetic force. I remember thinking a guy could fu&* his fingers up when reinstalling the mag side.. Once magnets grab she grabs!
 
Last edited:
all done , what a bitch, the turbo mount has to be loosened and pryed out a 1/2inch so cover comes off, cleaned off the gasket with brass brush and scrapper, smeared gasket both sides with high heat silicone, place gasket over dowells on engine and then placed cover on... thank good i have strong hands.... when those magnets grip,,,, it fn yanks the cover on, 3rd time was a charm.... torqued all the screws and filled her up with ANOTHER jug of oil REDLINE synthetic 0w40 and fired up.... put paper towel under and left for a day... no drips!! BUT the pan gasket might have a slight seep.... i can see its shinny around edge. fck
 
drilled a hole directly under the drain plug and then put a rear axle wheel rubber cap in hole (size i cant remember...1"?) wrks great no more mess.
 
soo now i still have an oil leak from up high on engine, doesnt leeak if just idleing but if i bring revs up and do a few high revs on stand, i can look up from under sled with belly plates off... see front side of engines gets a sheet of oil coming dwn from higher up.... now it must be valve cover gasket im thinking.... can this be done while engine still in and is it difficult? pain in #*$&@? i have the gasket. i dont think the pan was leaking as first suspected... i think it was oil coming dwn then catching the edge of the gasket then flowing along it making it look wet. crossing my fingers here fck
 
max rolph said:
soo now i still have an oil leak from up high on engine, doesnt leeak if just idleing but if i bring revs up and do a few high revs on stand, i can look up from under sled with belly plates off... see front side of engines gets a sheet of oil coming dwn from higher up.... now it must be valve cover gasket im thinking.... can this be done while engine still in and is it difficult? pain in #*$&@? i have the gasket. i dont think the pan was leaking as first suspected... i think it was oil coming dwn then catching the edge of the gasket then flowing along it making it look wet. crossing my fingers here fck
Click to expand...
When was the last time you calibrated your torque wrench?
 
Check the oil feed line for the turbo where it attaches to the block. Valve cover gasket can be done in sled if you move some #*$&@ out of the way
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

snowcaine
998 Engine Service/Rebuild Manual
Replies
2
Views
3K
snowcaine
snowcaine
Turboflash
AFR too high; how much more fuel pressure is needed?
5 6 7
Replies
97
Views
13K
max rolph
max rolph
Turboflash
Brake caliper housing cracked
Replies
2
Views
1K
1nc 2000
1nc 2000
cannondale27
Brake Caliper
Replies
1
Views
2K
InRBigness
InRBigness
C
Mcx stage 4 Build
Replies
6
Views
3K
customnytromtx69
C


Back
Top