adjusting shock compression vs spring stiffness

[Turtle]

I've got myself a 2006 Nytro, and this is the first sled I've had in which the rear shock compression is adjustable. For those who may not know this, the rear shock on the Nytro has a remote resevoir with compression clicker adjustment, and I could use some education on it.

For the little that I rode the sled last year, I did play with the clicker and found that it did make some difference in the bump handling, but there are some things that I don't understand.

I know that you usually setup the torsion spring preload according to your weight, ride height (or sag), and riding style. But what does the clicker adjustment really do?

If the clicker is set soft, doesn't that give the same affect as a soft spring setting - and vice/versa for a stiff clicker setting? What would be the point in setting the clicker really soft, but setting the springs stiff (or vice versa).

Could someone please explain the whole clicker thing and how you adjust it, cause I just don't get it.

Thanks.

 

[stumper]

I'm no expert, but as with any shock/spring set up, the springs are responsible for maintaining ride height and supporting weight, while the shocks determine the rate at which the springs enter into compression and rebound. With reference to a clicker style remote reservoir, it is my understanding that the reservoir provides an additional "chamber" for the shock oil to pass into, which increases the cooling and therefore decreases shock fade. Dialing up your reservoir increases resistance, which forces the shock to compress slower, thereby providing a better companion for a stiffer spring setting. As I said, I'm no expert, and anything anybody else can add or correct would be great. Hope this helps!

 

[type787x]

The clicker (compression damping) on your Nytro is primarily an anti-bottoming tool. Set it up initially to give you good ride comfort, then when you get a chance to ride in big bumps, increase the comp damping until the rear susp only bottoms over the biggest bumps. You might lose some ride comfort because increasing comp damping makes the shock stiffer but the trick is to achieve a good balance of both ride comfort and anti-bottoming.
Here's where the spring comes in to play. If you end up with the comp damping at max and it still bottoms you'll need to install a heavier spring. With a heavier spring you don't need the comp damping adjusted so stiff, so you'll benefit by being able to set the shock softer. This is one way that a stiffer spring can sometimes make your suspension ride better.
Conversely, if you have the comp damping set at minimum and the ride still feels stiff and you never bottom the susp, you should be able to use a lighter spring.

Hope that sheds some light.

 

[novarossi]

Basically, if you think of your clicker as a means to controll an internall valve in your shock, you can get the jist of it. If you turn the clicker all the way out(counter-clockwise) it opens the valve to allow more oil to flow through it. This will make the shock compress quicker, which allows a softer, plusher ride, but will bottom easier on big bumps. If you turn the clicker all the way in(clockwise) it will close the valve and allow more resistance to oil flow. This will make the shock compress slower and give a stiffer ride, but will have more bottoming resistance. The only thing the spring does is maintain ride height, or sag. When you hit a bump, the spring and shock compress and then the spring returns the shock to normal ride height. The only time you should need to change the spring rate is when you are significantly lighter or heavier than the spring is rated for. I think the nytro spring is for 170 lb +/- riders. For example. I weight 250lbs with my gear on. That means I'm about 80lbs overweight for the stock spring. In my opinion, thats way too much. What that does is when I sit on the sled, it sags say, 4 inches. With a 170lb rider it would it sag mabey 2 inches. (yor dealer can tell you what the sag should be) So if the shock has a total of 8 inches of travel, my 4 inch sag just used up half the shock travel. Not really the ideal situation. I hope this helps and your not confused. There is more to it then this, this just covers the basics. The shock on the Nytro is decent, and you may need to make internal valving adjustments on it if you longtrack your sled, due to increased leverage.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Right. The torsion spring mainly dictates ride height. The tension should be set first to set the correct height and sit-in (sag). If your ride height and sit-in are not correct, it can goof up other settings like weight transfer, etc. I usually try for 3" sit-in then adjust transfer. It is still the same spring no matter what cam setting you use so the speed of travel does not change much. This is controlled by the shock adjuster by changing the internal flow restriction. Slows down travel for the fast big bumps.

Going from a standard shock to a clicker made a big difference on my Vector in the big bumps. Still have the standard springs.

 

[Turtle]

Cool ... I think I've got it now. Thanks a lot guys!