adjusting toe-in/out but how to remove air box?

[bobber]

Still haven't had machine out('09 Apex LTXGT), setting up suspension. When picked up machine dealer said I'd need to set everything up and when salesperson moving sled, found steering heavy.
Today checked toe-in/out to find way out of alignment, by about 3/4". So started to adjust ski's but how do I get at the inner joints? I'm thinking air box has to come out but cann't find any info on either. Tells me how to adjust but not how to get at it.

 

[radianguy]

I'm not sure if you need to remove the airbox to get at the inner joints, but if you do you will need to remove the headlight pod first. Then the air box will come right out. it's a bit of work , first you will need to remove the trim ring around your riser block, then the dash panel, then the headlight comes off(2 bolts in the frame) then the air box can be lifted out of the way.

 

[06apexrtx]

unscrewing the carb(injection) boots w/ the allen screws is a little bit of a pain as well and removing the vent hoses and sensor plug in. as far as im concerned the dealer should be at the very least setting up the toe in if not helping set it up for your weight. imo.

 

[bobber]

unscrewing the carb(injection) boots w/ the allen screws is a little bit of a pain as well and removing the vent hoses and sensor plug in. as far as im concerned the dealer should be at the very least setting up the toe in if not helping set it up for your weight. imo.

Agree with you there since I paid $400 for "PDI". I have to go back to dealer this morning with the second tow hitch Yamaha 'claimed' was made for this machine. I'll tell the dealer what I'm facing. To be honest I'd rather do this myself, being a mechanic for 30 yrs plus, makes me more comfortable knowing what was done. However will be looking for some reimbursment... maybe first service? I was looking at the boot clamps(have airbox cover off), sensor and vent tube last nite but wondering what other fine things down there I should be aware off. Thanks for the info guys.... guess it has to come off..... sigh. Downloaded the manual but nothing in there about getting at the rod ends or at least I could find.
Suspension set-up I'm following the 'tips' found here, such as shimming skis, loosening limiter strap and initial front spring tension. Still trying to figure out the Transfer Rod, seems as though that will need to be adjusted to my preference. Machine had the Simmons Flex skis installed so I thought I would adjust to zero toe-in/out thinking to get there from factory setting may just have to turn outer joints, not bother inner. But with so much toe-out, want to even out threads in all joints.
Easiest way I found to measure such is to attach a piece of packing string to something heavy in front of machine. Then run string down that side of machine, around track and up other side, attaching that end to another heavy object. String is about 1-2 inches above floor, fairly even with skis. I move the objects (seating stools in my case) using the string as a plumb line, acting on front of track. Works good for me as no such thing as a straight peice of lumber around here LOL!!!!

 

[tomanytoyz]

make sure airbox boots go on throttle bodys correctly when installing,they have to be on all the way around! thats all

 

[Blue Dave]

I am like Bobber in that I like to do things myself as I have had some bad experiences with dealer repairs in the past. When I picked up my sled the handlebars were way out of alignment. The dealer supposedly took it for a test ride before giving me the keys. If they did I can not believe that they missed this obvious alignment issue.

The dealer offered to fix it when the 500 mile oil change was done since you have to tear the machine down just as much to get to the inner tie rod ends. I did not want to ride it that way for 500 miles so fixed the alignment myself right away by simply unbolting the outer tie rod ends and spinning them full revolutions in and out until I had it right. I was lucky in that I had just enough threads on the one side to be able to safely do this.

At 500 miles I did my own oil change which confirmed for me that you have to take apart everything down to below the battery box to access the inner tie rod ends.

 

[bobber]

Just got back from dealer. They had an Apex in shop getting prepped. Guess air box, battery and tray have to come out. I'll let you know how make out. 3 vent tubes and a sensor I have to look for... plus injector boot clamps.

 

[Blue Dave]

It is not hard to do, just take your time and pay attention to how everything was connected.

Once you have taken the sled apart far enough to access the inner rod ends you will have no problem with the oil change since it is the exact same parts that have to be removed to access the oil filter.

 

[Shivesy]

I've adjusted my steering and never needed to touch anything in the engine compartment. If I'm adjusting the right side I turn the handlebars to the far left position which will move the right side steering linkage to the far right. Then on the right side I push the rubber boot back against the bulkhead and there is the linkage adjustment nuts. I do the same for the other side also. Seems to me that your making this harder than what it really is.

Easiest way I found to measure such is to attach a piece of packing string to something heavy in front of machine. Then run string down that side of machine, around track and up other side, attaching that end to another heavy object. String is about 1-2 inches above floor, fairly even with skis. I move the objects (seating stools in my case) using the string as a plumb line, acting on front of track. Works good for me as no such thing as a straight peice of lumber around here LOL!!!!

Before you take any measurements to align your skis make sure that you align your track first. Then center your bars with the sled by measuring the distance from each end of the bars to a center point at the rear of the sled. Now go up to the skis and check your toe in or toe out against your string.

 

[bobber]

"Seems to me that your making this harder than what it really is. "... yeah probably did. When at dealership this morning was told how to go about it, by removing battery. Left hand not bad to get at but right side..omg... thankful I had an old 9/16 tappet wrench left in tool box.
First ever Yamaha so don't know the shortcuts like I do Doo. Thanks for the tip... wonder how many others know about accessing the inner joints thru the snow boots?
Set up skis and suspension via the tips here... thanks to all. Did find part of a shipping 1/4" c-clip jammed in the rear mono-spring. So good I did check the unit out myself... be bringing that to dealers attention.
Still waiting on studs and a tow hitch... after being given two which don't work. If Yamaha Canada cann't provide one I'll get the one from an '08 and fab support brackets to go around heat exchanger.

 

[bottlerocket]

The hardest part is getting the air box boots back on the injectors.

 

[apltx08]

The hardest part is getting the air box boots back on the injectors.

I use a bit of GREASE, apply a light coat on the BOOTS and they slide right back on no problem and if your working in a colder enviroment non heated garage heat them up with a heat gun it makes them softer and they EXPAND

 

[tcona-AGT]

Take appart with pics.
http://www.ulmerracing.com/Complete.pdf
Lots of info at top of page "FAQ"
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=42869

 

[bottlerocket]

The hardest part is getting the air box boots back on the injectors.

I use a bit of GREASE, apply a light coat on the BOOTS and they slide right back on no problem and if your working in a colder enviroment non heated garage heat them up with a heat gun it makes them softer and they EXPAND

Thanks I will give that a shot next time.

 

[yamadoo]

THANKS SHIVESY I was hoping for this to work

Yamadoo