mitchw
Extreme
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2009
- Messages
- 95
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- Location
- Kelliher, MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2010 Arctic Cat M8 Snopro
2008 Phazer MTX
2002 Tundra 300
Merry christmas guys (and gals, if there are any on here!) So, tonight I played in the powder a little bit. Climbed up out of a relatively steep ditch, and my oil light comes one, starts flashing. Then a code 13 starts showing up, which apparently means "Intake pressure sensor or circuit problem on cylinder 1". I've been riding this thing pretty steady for the last week, no rollovers or any issues really. So, is this thing going to blow up on me, or can i continue to ride for the rest of the weekend? I bought a yamaha cuz I was led to believe that piddly little problems with the engines wouldn't happen. If anything, my oil may be a bit too full. Is it true that you check the oil without threading the dipstick in? Thanks, and have a great Christmas!
spike337
TY 4 Stroke Master
Just to the threads. I think that @ 12,000 rpms, if there was an issue, you would've spread parts all over the county by now.
I guess all a guy can do is check the oil, and ask for opinions here.
I'm sure there will be some better educated problem solving then my reply. Hang on, i'm sure someone will chime in.
Mike.
I guess all a guy can do is check the oil, and ask for opinions here.
I'm sure there will be some better educated problem solving then my reply. Hang on, i'm sure someone will chime in.
Mike.
09phazermichagan
Expert
have you had the sled apart like the air box out for a oil change? if you have i would check all the plugs. i had one of the two black things on the air box come unpluged and it did the same thing
xt_gt
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
correct do not thread the dipstick in to check oil level.
i'd locate the sensor, clean it & put some grease on it too. & check airbox over.
i'd locate the sensor, clean it & put some grease on it too. & check airbox over.
Sled will run ok but will be a little rough at idle and deceleration. You will not hurt your engine if you keep riding it. It will just run rich. That said it is just one of your plugs into air box either came loose or a wire broke off(this has happened to me twice). To access remove windshield bracket head light cover, headlight, and you will see both plugs going into back of airbox. Good luck.
mitchw
Extreme
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2009
- Messages
- 95
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- 266
- Location
- Kelliher, MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2010 Arctic Cat M8 Snopro
2008 Phazer MTX
2002 Tundra 300
Thanks for the input everyone! Its thawing now in a buddys shop, gonna dive into the backside of the airbox tomorrow (thanks tbyrd!) turned out i was running about a cup or two too much oil also. Still a ton of ice buildup even with the float plate one, but it did seem to help the performance. Thanks again, and merry christmas!
Dont forget there is a vacuum hose one each of those sensors.Easy to miss not getting that on all the way.
mitchw
Extreme
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2009
- Messages
- 95
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 266
- Location
- Kelliher, MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2010 Arctic Cat M8 Snopro
2008 Phazer MTX
2002 Tundra 300
Update: We tore into it christmas morning, and the one sensor we were able to locate in the back of the airbox was still connected, and we weren't able to find any broken wires. Tbyrd, you're right, it does idle "rough" and the occasional (backfires?) dont inspire much confidence. However, I put about 70 miles on today, had a LOT of fun, and it seems no worse for the wear. Tomorrow morning will be contacting the two local dealers (both 45 miles out, in opposite directions) and seeing who wants to do some Y.E.S. work sooner rather than later. Hope you all had a great weekend!
Thers is actually 3 plugs that go into back of air box, 2 are the same size(big) and the third is smaller. You want to look at the 2 that are the same and underneath them is a vacume hose that plugs into each one. It will cause this reading also.
I rode mine over 300 miles with that same error code before fixing it.
bnsf205
Extreme
Open up the black hose that almost fully covers the wires leading to the connector on the back of the airbox. You should find that this black hose wore through and sheared the wire. I looked at mine ten times until I actually saw that the wire was cut. Easy solder fix. Not pretty but simple.
Amo
Extreme
I know exactly what this is and its a very easy fix. On the airbox in the top rear, there is an aluminum plate held on with three screws. Attached to that plate are two pressure senors/switches. Each of these has a downtube leading into the intake assembly behind the butterfly/injecters.
One of those two downtubes (and based on code 13 its the right one as you look at it from the front of the sled or clutch side) that atached under the switch. These are just press-on but should have a spring clamp IMO. The pressure switch nipple is plastic so I figure that is why they don't use the clamp cause it might break and those sensors are very expensive to repalce ($170).
The only other thing I can suggest is if they are attached, get a can of compressed air, blow out the tube and re-attach. You can see if anything becomes dislodged in the tube by holding open the throttle.
Good luck.
One of those two downtubes (and based on code 13 its the right one as you look at it from the front of the sled or clutch side) that atached under the switch. These are just press-on but should have a spring clamp IMO. The pressure switch nipple is plastic so I figure that is why they don't use the clamp cause it might break and those sensors are very expensive to repalce ($170).
The only other thing I can suggest is if they are attached, get a can of compressed air, blow out the tube and re-attach. You can see if anything becomes dislodged in the tube by holding open the throttle.
Good luck.
