an other 2011 apex studding post???

canam

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Sorry people; I realize that there are other posts covering this topic but they have been rather quiet lately.I have been checking all the related posts for updates but I still have no clear direction as to a reliable fix for stud clearance.My dealer sent me the bulletin Yamaha Canada put out with their "no studding recommendation" but suggests 1.325" max. and 5mm protector shimming if studs have to be installed.I felt a little better when they issued this and was ready to install as per their bulletin and then when I talked to a guy from "woody's" to get a pattern recommendation and he cautioned me.He said he has a friend who followed Yamaha's bulletin precisely and has had stud contact with the exhaust already.He proceeded to say that he was not going to sell too many studs telling me this but he highly recommended holding off studding untill a good solution comes out.THEN....I thought I would call Bender Racing for their input......their tech told me to definately hold off as they were not confident in the bulletin recommendations either.He proceeded to tell me that not only do they know of exhaust issues, but front HX's as well.He said to hold off and hopefully they would have a reliable fix within a month.Sorry for the novel.....please advise.
 
Check the original post MrSled has a fix in the tech section.
 
I have put on 850k so far with no issues using 108 1.325" studs down the middle. I added a third tunnel protector down the middle but I have seen no evidence of the track even rubbing on that. I have the track tension as per Yamaha manual recommendations.

Kaz
 
I have 530 miles on one and 435 on another base 11 Apex. At 200 miles did the 5mm washer ship on the tunnel protector mounts. I had not problems before the shim and I looked again with the shims and see not scratches. So, so far so good. 152 up the middle 1.325's.
 
82SRX500 said:
I have 530 miles on one and 435 on another base 11 Apex. At 200 miles did the 5mm washer ship on the tunnel protector mounts. I had not problems before the shim and I looked again with the shims and see not scratches. So, so far so good. 152 up the middle 1.325's.

What did you shim? Did you shim down the protector mounts or did you add 5mm flat bar to the bottom of the protector?

Thanks...
 
SledFreak said:
82SRX500 said:
I have 530 miles on one and 435 on another base 11 Apex. At 200 miles did the 5mm washer ship on the tunnel protector mounts. I had not problems before the shim and I looked again with the shims and see not scratches. So, so far so good. 152 up the middle 1.325's.

What did you shim? Did you shim down the protector mounts or did you add 5mm flat bar to the bottom of the protector?

Thanks...

I used 5mm worth of thick washers. You drop the rear of the skid down, then you remove the 12mm I think or 10mm nuts that hold the brackets that the rail is attached to. then insert the 5mm washers between. There is not much for thread length left to the bolts though so I used red loctite. That is the only part that worries me is that there is not much thread length to spin the nuts on. You do the rear and middle brackets the front ones are not needed from what we could tell for shimming because they are in front of the exup exhaust.
 
I only have slightly more than one mill of thread protruding and the dealer told me to hold off shimming till he received more instruction from Yamaha.Did you use washers or plates to shim with? Won't washers allow the mounting bracket to flex outward now instead of inward? Which bolts did you undo to drop the skid and how easy was it to put back?Sorry for all the questions but have never dropped a Yammi skid and some of my old Poos were a bear to reassemble.
 
ApexSE/Vector said:
I only have slightly more than one mill of thread protruding and the dealer told me to hold off shimming till he received more instruction from Yamaha.Did you use washers or plates to shim with? Won't washers allow the mounting bracket to flex outward now instead of inward? Which bolts did you undo to drop the skid and how easy was it to put back?Sorry for all the questions but have never dropped a Yammi skid and some of my old Poos were a bear to reassemble.

Try this.

http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... emoval.htm
 
ApexSE/Vector said:
I only have slightly more than one mill of thread protruding and the dealer told me to hold off shimming till he received more instruction from Yamaha.Did you use washers or plates to shim with? Won't washers allow the mounting bracket to flex outward now instead of inward? Which bolts did you undo to drop the skid and how easy was it to put back?Sorry for all the questions but have never dropped a Yammi skid and some of my old Poos were a bear to reassemble.

American or Canadian dealer ?

Mods will probably get on you about filling in your general location.
 
ApexSE/Vector said:
I only have slightly more than one mill of thread protruding and the dealer told me to hold off shimming till he received more instruction from Yamaha.Did you use washers or plates to shim with? Won't washers allow the mounting bracket to flex outward now instead of inward? Which bolts did you undo to drop the skid and how easy was it to put back?Sorry for all the questions but have never dropped a Yammi skid and some of my old Poos were a bear to reassemble.

I used washers and red loctite. There are no threads showing now. as mentioned, the nut is basically to deep to fully thread the bolt with the 5mm of washers but I did that anyhow and used the red loctite. I checked after 300 miles and they look just fine. To drop the rear skid is pretty easy once you have the back end lifted up. loosen track all the way, loosen transfer rod all the way, the two top wheels come right off and then the rear suspension mount. It does take two people pretty much to get the suspension mount back in place but it is not that difficult. Kinda like the second person works the suspension while the other lines up the bolt to the hole once it lines up. A pry bar helps to push the couple of the supsension forward.
 
Shimming is a band-aide fix. The mount is the problem, it will flex up when the track contacts the protector. The only way to fix this is to make the mount solid.

Larry
 


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