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Apex bad steering

Maurizio Benelli said:
I installed the 6" Shaper Bars and now there´s no push at all :Rockon:

However now the sled turns too sharp on hard pack snow and I´m almost thrown off the seat all the time.
So, should I decrease the preload on front shocks? And if I adjust the transfer rod longer, does it move the weight back?

Well then hang on tighter, but if u decrease the preload theoretically that should fix the problem on hard pack. I have never run the shaper bars but hear that they are pretty good. Adjusting the transfer rod does not move any weight it only allows more movement within the skid before it couples. Which means more weight is being transferred back onto the skid. Therefore u will get more ski lift. The transfer rod works on the principle that when the piston inside the cylinder is not in contact with either end of the cylinder the 2 ends of the skid move independent of each other. Once the piston contacts either end it locks up the skid and it moves as one.
 

speedx said:
TBay Sledhead said:
If you want the sled to track in the corners i.e. it goes where you point it and with light steering effort put on a set of snow trackers. Support the front of the sled off the ground and back off the shock spring adjusting nut until the spring rattles, then tighten the adjusting nut until the rattle stops. You're done. The snow trackers are about $200 Canadian but well worth it in my opinion. BTW you can set the limiter strap back to the stock position.

Cant set limiter strap stock. Do you need snow trackers to do this? Have tried to increase adjuster 3 full turns putting more preload on front shocks. Sled did turn better. But will try set front suspesion as you say to test if it get better.

More pressure on the ski requires more effort to turn. With the stock 10" carbides, 1/2" spacer between the carbide and ski i could still not get the sled to corner to my liking until I went to the snow trackers. It now turns like it is on rails. If u look at the snow trackers on line (I have the aggressive) u see that most of the U shaped piece is in front of the of the pivot point of the ski, I think this is what makes them easier to turn. I now have my limiter strap set one hole tighter so as not to get as much ski lift coming out of the corner when trail riding. Transfer rod is set roughly in the middle. The draw back to this is track spin on hard acceleration.
 
I have GYTR clickers in front on my Apex LTX GT, I have stud boy 6" dual carbides. My limiter strap is one tighter than stock and my front springs are set just short enough to keep the spring from rattling while not under load.

I am very comfortable with how my sled steers, no darting, very little push, minimal inside ski lift, and steering effort is perfect for me.

YMMV, but this works for me.
 
TBay Sledhead said:
speedx said:
TBay Sledhead said:
If you want the sled to track in the corners i.e. it goes where you point it and with light steering effort put on a set of snow trackers. Support the front of the sled off the ground and back off the shock spring adjusting nut until the spring rattles, then tighten the adjusting nut until the rattle stops. You're done. The snow trackers are about $200 Canadian but well worth it in my opinion. BTW you can set the limiter strap back to the stock position.

Cant set limiter strap stock. Do you need snow trackers to do this? Have tried to increase adjuster 3 full turns putting more preload on front shocks. Sled did turn better. But will try set front suspesion as you say to test if it get better.

More pressure on the ski requires more effort to turn. With the stock 10" carbides, 1/2" spacer between the carbide and ski i could still not get the sled to corner to my liking until I went to the snow trackers. It now turns like it is on rails. If u look at the snow trackers on line (I have the aggressive) u see that most of the U shaped piece is in front of the of the pivot point of the ski, I think this is what makes them easier to turn. I now have my limiter strap set one hole tighter so as not to get as much ski lift coming out of the corner when trail riding. Transfer rod is set roughly in the middle. The draw back to this is track spin on hard acceleration.

Thanks for advice:) Going to do the hard way and test, test and learn.
 
gun nut said:
apex55, you've got ot right. You could have used stock skis with double shaper bars.
For some reason I never considered the double shaper bars. On the trail I spoke with several groups that were running either the Pilots or the Simmons and they all said it was a must change. Would have been cheaper with the doubles!!
 
When tighten limiter strap you are shorten the rear shock in monoshock travel. Do you need to adjust it?
 
Have tighten preload on rear shock 3 steps, loosen front shocks preload little. Going to test ride tomorrow and let you guys know and i do take note, so i can change back:) Thanks for good support.

SpeedX :nos
 
I just put on original yamaha dually carbides, and adjusted the front shocks so that there is no rattle in the springs while off the ground (lengthened the springs). Think this will help with my darting issue? Limiter strap is in the stock position. It's a 2011 apex.
 
SRXSex said:
Speedex is totaly lost. Needs a friend in Sveeden to drive over to his house. Where is Swiss Sledder when you need him.

hahaha was totaly lost, but not now. Are you lost? Sweden and Switzerland are two different country?
Did let out limiter strap and adjusted rear/front shocks and control rod. So damn happy with sled now, pulls like crazy :die
 
I simply put on stud boy 6" duece bars, raised my limiter strap by 1, and loosened my springs up until they rattled and took out the slack only (maybe 5-6 turns tops).

Handles very predictably and does not push or have much inside ski lift. I have my GYTR clickers set in the middle top and bottom. I dont have any studs either, yet, maybe. still deciding....
 
04JRB said:
I simply put on stud boy 6" duece bars, raised my limiter strap by 1, and loosened my springs up until they rattled and took out the slack only (maybe 5-6 turns tops).

Handles very predictably and does not push or have much inside ski lift. I have my GYTR clickers set in the middle top and bottom. I dont have any studs either, yet, maybe. still deciding....

Dont like studs and drive turbo. Seen to many pitcure of what damage they can do. Mine handle great to and have very good traction. When you get suspension right, sled almost drive it self ;)!
Thanks guys for all help with my question.
 


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