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Apex gear testing result

Even on rough trail it has not hit anywhere ! Dont
understand why they think that 1.450 is too long !

On the Apex GT 06 they work great and they dont hit !!! My wifes Rage has a rear cooler and they did
hit that cooler and I had to shim the tunnel protector on that sled 1/4" but not my GT.
 

Regarding length of stud.... think about this; when you're removing a bolt with a wrench, whats easier? A short wrench or a long wrench? If the bolt is really hard to remove, what do you do? You put a really long pipe on the wrench (no, not a pipe wrench, a pipe'd wrench).

When your studs are very long, it takes less force to cause them to fold over because they offer greater leverage against the rubber track that is holding it up.


Now consider the shape of the stud and its ability to bite into the ground... if the stud is bent over, its just going to slide along the ground and it isn't going to bite in. If its bent over the OTHER way (hooked forward), then the force from the track will drive it down into the ice. This means that if you're trying to get the maximum traction from your steel, you want them as short as possible and hooked forward.
 
Before I changed my skid and track I was running 1.325 up the center on all angled double backers. I ride hard and as you can see I have dented in grooves on my pipes. Any longer studs or oversized rear wheels would have done me in. I do think if you ride easy, you can get away with longer studs, but sooner or later it can catch up to you.
I always wonder for clearance when ratcheting the track as well. Not much room in the front exchanger when track inner lugs are pushed on the outside of drivers. Can always install extroverts for that problem though.

Dan
 

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Dano said:
Before I changed my skid and track I was running 1.325 up the center on all angled double backers. I ride hard and as you can see I have dented in grooves on my pipes. Any longer studs or oversized rear wheels would have done me in. I do think if you ride easy, you can get away with longer studs, but sooner or later it can catch up to you.
I always wonder for clearance when ratcheting the track as well. Not much room in the front exchanger when track inner lugs are pushed on the outside of drivers. Can always install extroverts for that problem though.

Dan
Click to expand...

that's proof enough for me not to go with the 1.450
 
Angles backers because of the way they go against the lug actaully add to penetration. If you are worried about that little mark on the pipe, then don't stud, because that is no big deal.
 
SledFreak said:
Angles backers because of the way they go against the lug actaully add to penetration. If you are worried about that little mark on the pipe, then don't stud, because that is no big deal.
Click to expand...

SledFreak, do you leave your suspension soft or hard, do you have any marks like that?
 
I had marks on the heat shield from when I ran 1.325's. It's only marks, it won't hurt anything and they won't cut through the tunnel. Also, I am runnning an Excell Exhaust and the main pipe runs lower than the stock one, but I'm not worried. Do the extra 1/4" tunnel protectors and you will be good to go. The 1.450 are an 1/8 to 3/16 bigger than the 1.325's, so that is why it is safe to add 1/4" extra protectors. Yamaha should have just made them bigger from the start. Complete B.S if you ask me.
 
ROCKERDAN said:
Mike....

I 100% agree with all you say.....I always run 1 inch tracks,with only 96 1.175 gold diggers....and still havent found one apex that can run near me on top end....I can only attribute that to either my track,ramair or good clutching...but my guess is its my track with light studding.

the ripsaw can get me outa the hole by maybe 2 lengths,but i go by every other apex so fast after that its like they hit the brakes....

Im guessing 3-5mph on top end faster....this is why im keeping this sled.

It was fast before I did anything to it .....but the track was on it from day one....ramair,clutching,and now pc3/ign module only making it faster from day one.

Dan
Click to expand...

I agree. Going from 96 to 144 on my sons GT lost about 5mph on top end.
 
Guy's, I have taken all the studs out of the tracks I had studded with the good 144 pattern, so I can't give you a good picture of it. The reason I have taken them out is because the double backers and pattern vibrated too bad using the Yamaha drivers, (they are machined more in the wheel than the drive lugs, and the lugs protrude above the wheel for increased bite on the track lug). You would not want to use it without SKI-DOO extroverts. Not to mention it robs you of 5-6 MPH over the iceripper I'm using now, which I believe is the ideal trail track. I'm not going to stud anymore unless its a 200+ HP turbo machine.


I didn't, and wont angle the carbide trail studs because you need to stop, but I did lead them right against the lugs for less flex.

The angled backers came to be because of what I was doing on the drag tracks. Woody's got wind of this and started to manufacture them with angles built in.

Didn't this star out a gearing disscusion anyway?
 
Add 1/8 or 1/4 flat stock alum (depending on how much you need) to the existing tunnel protectors if you guys are hitting the tunnel. I run 1.45 studs in a 1" track on my turbo sled, with extra protection added to existing.
 
I run 170 of 1.450" Megabites in my 128" track with 1/8" and no problems. Yes, it is normal for scratches to appear on your exhaust shield. I have had them from 1.325" studs as well..
 
Back to the post at hand. Yes, you don't have enough studs and that is why you were spinning, because it was a lack of traction. Therefore you saw no gain when gearing down. I think we can all agree on that.
 
APEXFX - Why was there no change,when gears where changed.

You see – speed….is a package thing.

You lowered your gear thus giving more leverage to the clutch. If you could chart that – you would see the power band running above the optimum shift curve. With no increase in forward speed.

Next, with lowering the gearing …you need to then lighten the clutches – (the package thing) by backing off the secondary or however you like. The clutches can pull harder (shift easier) than with the stock gearing.

This presumes that the lower gearing is better – if its not –then you will see no improvement.
 
well i think i'm going to take out all my 144 1.325 studs out and go with 96 1.450 studs in a different pattern add 1/4" to the tunnel and try it next year, if i bottom out and hit the tunnel and don't a good hook up, i'll try something else
 
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