APEX GT SKID FRAME REMOVAL

[JERSEYJOE]

OK it's time to remove the Apex rear skid. I have doen my SRX and VIPER sevral times but not the Mono shock skid.

Can someone give me the quick step by step?

Any tricks?

 

[sherlock29]

-Unplug shock adjuster (ohlins shock??)
-loosen rear axle/track tension
-unbolt coupling arm
-undo 4 main suspension bolts
-lift back of sled pull out.

i do the reverse when installing, but use a rachet strap to compress suspension a bit to align rear bolts. pretty easy once you do it enough times...

cheers jason

 

[danq]

Pretty much follow the how to here:
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... emoval.htm

I have an engine hoist to raise the rear of the sled, makes it easy to control.
1) remove the limiter strap per instructions
2) move strap out of the way and cut tye wraps holding in the wires to the electric shock. Disconnent the shock white connector in the fat part of the wire harness next to the shock.
3) remove the front bolts
4) remove the rear bolts, raise rear of sled enough to slide the skid out. There is a trick on the rear. Loosen one bolt almost all the way, then retighten. Loosen the other bolt almost all the way, then re loosen the first again to remove both.


Reversing the steps is not how to put the skid back in.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ht=#427150
Start replacing the skid by getting the front bolts in first. (These notes assume the limiter strap is loose, traction rod attached.)
-Put a strap around the seat to hold the track out of the way, and reposition the skid in the track.
-Raise the rear of the sled enough to put a 4x4 under the track behind the curve of the rails and begin to lower the rear of the sled. Notice how the skid will tilt up toward the front holes. Wiggle the upper arm to avoid the rivets in the tunnel and push the skid and arms up until you can align the front holes and replace the bolts. Take your time, this is the hardest part. Don't damage the bushings.
-Remove the 4x4.
-Carefully remove the strap holding up the track.
-Adjust the height of the rear of the sled to allow the rear pivot arm to be raised into position to install the rear bolts. (I used a broom handle to make this easy.) This will require multiple checks to have the rear mount at the right height to intersect the arc the rear suspension travels. Locktite, install and torque the bolts.
-Raise the rear of the sled to allow you to dress and tiewrap the wires to the EC shock
-Reinstall the limiter strap.
-Check that every thing is square and adjust the track tension.
-Start the sled and check that the track runs smoothly.
-Check that electric shock adjustment works on the dash board.
-DONE!

 

[JERSEYJOE]

APEX SKID REMOVAL

SO WOULD YOU SAY IT WAS HARDER / EASIER THAN AN SRX OR VIPER SKID TO REMOVE AND REPLACE?

 

[The Artist]

I would say they are both easy, either one can be done by one person with out a struggle

 

[lvUP]

Pretty much follow the how to here:
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... emoval.htm

I have an engine hoist to raise the rear of the sled, makes it easy to control.
1) remove the limiter strap per instructions
2) move strap out of the way and cut tye wraps holding in the wires to the electric shock. Disconnent the shock white connector in the fat part of the wire harness next to the shock.
3) remove the front bolts
4) remove the rear bolts, raise rear of sled enough to slide the skid out. There is a trick on the rear. Loosen one bolt almost all the way, then retighten. Loosen the other bolt almost all the way, then re loosen the first again to remove both.


Reversing the steps is not how to put the skid back in.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ht=#427150
Start replacing the skid by getting the front bolts in first. (These notes assume the limiter strap is loose, traction rod attached.)
-Put a strap around the seat to hold the track out of the way, and reposition the skid in the track.
-Raise the rear of the sled enough to put a 4x4 under the track behind the curve of the rails and begin to lower the rear of the sled. Notice how the skid will tilt up toward the front holes. Wiggle the upper arm to avoid the rivets in the tunnel and push the skid and arms up until you can align the front holes and replace the bolts. Take your time, this is the hardest part. Don't damage the bushings.
-Remove the 4x4.
-Carefully remove the strap holding up the track.
-Adjust the height of the rear of the sled to allow the rear pivot arm to be raised into position to install the rear bolts. (I used a broom handle to make this easy.) This will require multiple checks to have the rear mount at the right height to intersect the arc the rear suspension travels. Locktite, install and torque the bolts.
-Raise the rear of the sled to allow you to dress and tiewrap the wires to the EC shock
-Reinstall the limiter strap.
-Check that every thing is square and adjust the track tension.
-Start the sled and check that the track runs smoothly.
-Check that electric shock adjustment works on the dash board.
-DONE!

I'm having trouble with step 2. Unplugging the electrical socket that is inside the black boot. I pressed down on the small snap and tried to pull the connectors apart but no luck. Any tricks for getting them apart?

 

[ranger1]

I don't take the limiter strap off or loosen the track & it comes out easy. After removing the four suspension bolts I just raise the rear of the sled high then yank the suspension out.( I removed the suspension adjuster). To put back in I leave the rear high, slip the suspension back in, line up the front holes, put the bolts in & tighten. To line up the rear I use two ratchet straps on either side of the shock to compress the shock spring which enables you to line up the holes. I find if I dont compress the spring the holes for the suspension will be a couple inches to far back from the tunnel holes.

 

[lvUP]

I don't take the limiter strap off or loosen the track & it comes out easy. After removing the four suspension bolts I just raise the rear of the sled high then yank the suspension out.( I removed the suspension adjuster). To put back in I leave the rear high, slip the suspension back in, line up the front holes, put the bolts in & tighten. To line up the rear I use two ratchet straps on either side of the shock to compress the shock spring which enables you to line up the holes. I find if I dont compress the spring the holes for the suspension will be a couple inches to far back from the tunnel holes.

Thanks for the tips. I have a Apex GT so it has a wire that goes to the shock. So far I have not been able to get the two connectors apart.

 

[actionjack]

Apologies in advance if I'm wrong because I'm going by memory isn't the connector you want to take apart up in the footwell near the reverse lever ? You then have to fish it out of the hole in the tunnel.

 

[lvUP]

Apologies in advance if I'm wrong because I'm going by memory isn't the connector you want to take apart up in the footwell near the reverse lever ? You then have to fish it out of the hole in the tunnel.

That helps a lot! I was trying to disconnect it under the sled. There are two connectors that go together right under the sled and I thought that might be easier then trying to fish it out of the tunnel. Thanks for your help, I will try it tonight.

 

[Winderallday!]

Thanks for the tips. I have a Apex GT so it has a wire that goes to the shock. So far I have not been able to get the two connectors apart.

lvUP: You refer to the "connector in the black boot", are you referring the protector boot right at the Ohlins shock itself?
If so, I would just leave all that in tact, instead, follow that black wire along the a-arm to where it goes through the tunnel, there should be a rubber grommet in the tunnel hole. The wire then routes behind the chain case and plugs into a wire harness by the reverse lever, easy to get at.
Disconnect it there and back feed the wire through the tunnel/grommet, coil it up and take it out with the skid, leaving the wire still attached to the shock and a-arm, makes life easier imo.
Cheers

 

[Winderallday!]

what actionjack said,........ looks like he beat me to it!

 

[lvUP]

what actionjack said,........ looks like he beat me to it!

You guys are right, never thought of following the wire and unplugging it behind the chain case. I thought the connector would be too big for the hole plus the grommet. I will check it later tonight. Many thanks for the help.

 

[lvUP]

You guys are right, never thought of following the wire and unplugging it behind the chain case. I thought the connector would be too big for the hole plus the grommet. I will check it later tonight. Many thanks for the help.

Totally agree with "this site rocks". Really wouldn't know what to do without you guys.